Fuel Filter DIY for 5S-FE 97-2001

[97ToyCar]

Good Independence Day to you fine TN folks,
since we are going out of town this morning, I decided to change the fuel filter, since I did not know when the PO had done it last.

Here is a blow by blow procedure, since many have asked before, perhaps this will be of some help to you.

1) Start by removing the negative cable (-).
2) Remove the air box. To do this, undo the two large box clips at the fender end first, then reach to the engine end of the filter cover, and remove the cruise control cable from its clip, and remove the cable next to it from the tension spring. Leave the spring attached to the air box. Loosen the clamp from the intake hose. Then, remove the IAT sensor (just wiggle the whole sensor out with the wire attached.) Remove the vacuum hose from the cover. Remove the air box cover from the engine area.

3) Remove the air filter.
4) The lower cover is held by 3 10MM bolts. Remove these, and remove the lower cover from the engine compartment.
5) Using a 14MM (FLARE NUT WRENCH)!!!, remove the lower fuel line, until it is free. You don't need a backup wrench on the filter, but if it helps, use it.
6) Using a 17MM (FLARE NUT WRENCH)!!!, remove the banjo bolt from the upper end of the filter. remove the banjo bolt, and make sure you get both of the crush washers from the banjo bolt, and from the underside of the fuel pipe. Throw them away, make sure you have 2 new ones. They should come with the new filter. Unclip the wiring harness attached to the tab on the filter mounting bracket.
7) Remove the 2 10MM bolts that hold the filter in place, and lift the filter from it's mounting location.
8) Reinstall the new filter to the frame holes, and tighten securely. (There will be some movement afterwards, but that is normal, due to the rubber mounts on the filter.) Clip the wiring harness attached back on to the tab on the filter bracket.
9) Start the threads on the lower fuel line fitting, and hand tighten. Use the 14MM wrench, and snug the fitting tight. ( I found out that I had to to give a final big tug on the fitting before I was done, as it was leaking fuel afterwards, but finally it was blessedly dry...whew...
10) Install the lower crush washer on the top of the filter (just set it on top), under the main fuel line fitting. Install the upper crush washer on the banjo bolt. Tighten the banjo bolt securely, using the 17MM wrench.
11) Reinstall the lower air box with the 3 bolts. (10MM). Make sure the end of the air box slides on the end of the intake hose at the fender, otherwise the bolts won't line up.
12) Install the air filter.
13)Install the upper end of the air box. Make sure to reinstall the IAT sensor, and the rubber hose to the fitting on the airbox. Remember to place the cables from the cruise control assembly back into their clips, and reattach the second cable from the transmission back into the spring clip, that you removed earlier. Reinstall the intake hose to the top of the air box, and tighten the clamp securely. Reinstall the negative (-) cable to the battery.
14) Start the engine. It will crank over for a bit before it fills the filter and pressurizes the fuel rail, but it will start. Immediately check the lower fitting to see if it leaks fuel, if it does, snug the lower fitting again, as I had to do. Check the upper banjo bolt as well for leaks. If all is dry, you are finished.
15) Wipe up any spilled fuel, and that's it!

I noticed an immediate improvement in performance, much more responsive than it was before.