3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
We bought some Michellins for my wives 1998 Camry and they have about 30k miles on them. Drove with her today and noticed the car road like crap until you get to 70mph. I inspected the tires and both rear tires were wearing on the outside!
The driver side rear was choppy. I thought it looked like the tire has separated. We took it back to costco were we bought them and of course it is not covered under warranty as the rear tire are "possibly out of alignment or bad strut".
I understand and was a little irritated at the same time, but I moved on a bought two new tires for the rear as the fronts have over 50% tread on them and are wearing evenly.
Question is, do you think the vehicle just needs an alignment or struts also? I replaced the struts myself about 4 years ago, forget which brand just some from Napa. That was on all four corners. Did not replace the coils though just struts.
What do you guys think? I'm trying to not go through another set a rear tires!
We bought some Michellins for my wives 1998 Camry and they have about 30k miles on them. Drove with her today and noticed the car road like crap until you get to 70mph. I inspected the tires and both rear tires were wearing on the outside!
The driver side rear was choppy. I thought it looked like the tire has separated. We took it back to costco were we bought them and of course it is not covered under warranty as the rear tire are "possibly out of alignment or bad strut".
I understand and was a little irritated at the same time, but I moved on a bought two new tires for the rear as the fronts have over 50% tread on them and are wearing evenly.
Question is, do you think the vehicle just needs an alignment or struts also? I replaced the struts myself about 4 years ago, forget which brand just some from Napa. That was on all four corners. Did not replace the coils though just struts.
What do you guys think? I'm trying to not go through another set a rear tires!
Any help is appreciated.
The Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S (H-rated) are a better tire than OEM specs try those instead of the MXV4 etc. Also rotate.
When you replaced the struts, did you get an alignment? You car will be out of alignment after a strut swap, unless you get incredibly lucky. How are your struts now?
BTW, I put Primacy MXV4's on my 2001 LE, best tires I have ever owned, very happy with them. edit - your wear pattern sounds like a camber problem. It could be toe-in/out as well, either way you very likely need an alignment.
Sounds like an alignment issue if it is only on the outside (one side of the tire) of the back tires. If it's on the inside and outside of the back tires it may be due to having low pressure in the tires for a prolonged period of time.
It's to late. I already purchased 2 tires for the rear.
I plan to take the vehicle down for a 4 wheel align, there's a place down the road that does it for 44.99.
Whats the best way for me to test the struts before I take it in for the alignment?
I just dont want to pay for the alignment and them tell me I need struts, then replace the struts and then have to pay for another alignment.
Have you guys ever had a problem with the actual coil being bad or sagging? The car looks like it sits level to me.
No I dont have a photo of the tires left them at Costco.
Someone suggest a wheel bearing causing the uneven wear or chopping of the tire. I'll have to look into that also.
Whats the best way for me to test the struts before I take it in for the alignment?
Best way is for someone to follow you and drive beside you while you go over rough roads, so they can watch the tires and how they react. But the bounce test is fine, try to bounce the car up and down, then let go. The car should settle down and stop basically right away, not much movement. It should also be fairly hard to move the car up and down. I've watched other peoples tires bounce around like a rubber ball, even driving on smooth roads. Very hard on tires (and dangerous).
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Have you guys ever had a problem with the actual coil being bad or sagging? The car looks like it sits level to me.
I don't ever recalling a Gen3 or 4 Camry with sagging springs, but I'm sure it happens. I doubt you have that problem though. The coils do break, but you would have known instantly when you did the struts.
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Someone suggest a wheel bearing causing the uneven wear or chopping of the tire. I'll have to look into that also.
Bad wheel bearings are usually fairly obvious, they drone or make other strange noises. The shop that does the alignment will tell you if anything is bad. At least the one I had mine done at did, I asked them to make sure the car was suitable to be aligned. They did a quick test (how I don't know) and told me the car was solid and did the alignment, gave me a nice sheet of the before and after specs. Car steered and drove so much better after.
You might look through the wheel opening and lift up the boot over the struts shaft. The whole assembly should be dry with no signs of oil leaking where the shaft enters the strut body.
This, driving it, does it bounce after a bump or settle quickly and if the brakes are applied hard, how bad does it nose dive? Watch other cars during normal braking. It shouldn't lead to much nose dive unless the shocks are done.
As for tire wear, tire inflation, alignment, and worn parts can lead to cupping. If the alignment guy doesn't know this car sawed off a set of tires, you may want to suggest the condition to him so he doesn't leave a marginal setting on the edge vs adjusting it due to outer tire wear. You did say outside edges were worn, yes?
If so, and ONLY the outside edges "positive Camber" wears the outside edges smooth. A "toe-in condition" in the rear will lead to scalloped outer edges.
Hard to tell the difference between scalloped and cupped, but front tires on front drive cars get beat up from tight parking lot turns where the TOE-ON Turns eats unnecessary rubber from the tire. This often leaves scallops. Hint, run your hand over the tire backwards, if the edges catch your hand, thats what I'm talking about.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
I have been reading so many horror stories regarding tire shops and alignments not being done correctly. Wish I had a recommendation for a great alignment shop in the Inland Empire. Some people are saying the computer does the alignment, others say the technician can mess up your alignment also.
The car drivers perfect, but the outside of the rear tires only wore 3 times faster the any of the other tires.
Just dont want to get ripped off and then be even more pissed if it doesn't fix the problem of wearing the outside of the tire. I know I didnt rotate them like I should have,
I went to tire kingdom for mine. I'm not usually a fan of big chains like that, but they had a deal for like 120 bucks or something for 2 years of unlimited alignments. I got it done the first time and they did an excellent job. I hate when people leave the steering wheel crooked after an alignment but they kept it right on and the alignment is great, after about 5k miles the tires are still wearing perfectly normal. And if you smack a curb or change your struts later on, they will redo it for free or you can stop it and have it checked for free anytime within your 1, 2, or however many years you pay for.
Never ever ever take your car to a goodyear though. I took my old ranger to them for an alignment. I got it back the first time COVERED in oily hand prints on the rocker panels, roofline, doors, everywhere. And my truck was white. I took it 2 blocks down the road and the truck could have done a U-turn without touching the wheel. The alignment was better than that when I brought it in, I only got one cause I put new tires on it. I brought it back and they did it again, and didn't get it back until the next day. I went back up there, drove down the road and SAME THING. So the third time I told them they either get it right this time or I want a refund. They called me a few hours later and said it was done and that they didn't put alignment shims on it the first 2 times. They said they did this time and it's aligned but normally they charge more for the shims. I told them I wasn't paying for them because they took 3 attempts to get them on and they should have known it took them in the first place. So finally I got the truck back without paying for the shims and after spending several hours washing off the hand prints, I will never go back or recommend anyone else to them again. Sorry about the rant, but that's one of those horror stories you mentioned. haha
I have been reading so many horror stories regarding tire shops and alignments not being done correctly. Wish I had a recommendation for a great alignment shop in the Inland Empire. Some people are saying the computer does the alignment, others say the technician can mess up your alignment also.
The car drivers perfect, but the outside of the rear tires only wore 3 times faster the any of the other tires.
Just dont want to get ripped off and then be even more pissed if it doesn't fix the problem of wearing the outside of the tire. I know I didnt rotate them like I should have,
FWIW; front wheel drive cars are naturally harder on the outer edges than rear drive cars. Couple this with under inflation and not being rotated and even the best alignment will slaughter the tires outer edges. Tire pressure likely being the worst offender unless the TOE was off by being TOED-IN substantially.
It could be that your car has a perfect alignment.
Q? Did it really wear the REAR tires or where those front tire moved to the rear and you thought the rear did the damage.
I typically run the fronts about 5 to 7psi higher than the rears just to prevent outer edge wear on the fronts.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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