how to remove toyota signatures on the back of a camry

[ps_outrage]

How would i remove the toyota logos on the back on my camry and also remove the glue crap too with out taking off the paint

[BamZipPow]

Aren't those glued on? Maybe some floss and a heat gun?

[ps_outrage]

would acetone work without harming the paint

[Drewfuspx]

Theres been a few of these discussions on the boards, remember to search then post!

Most people wouldn't recommend acetone as it's quite harsh. 3m makes an adhesive remover that's quite good I hear, but you'll have to polish and blend the paint that's been hidden underneath the emblems.

Also the jury is out in terms of which symbols are adhesive only and which have pegs.

[Camry LE 94]

you definitely don't want to use Acetone. Acetone will take the surface rust off of metal, and is a very strong solvent for removing paint.

[933VZFE]

If the car's more then a year or 2 old you're gonna have a tough time removing badges without repainting, even if you can get the adhesive off. I've had decent luck with a hair dryer, dental floss and "Goo-Be-Gone" but then you're emblems are usually ghosted into the paint.

You could try it then try some rubbing compound/a clay stick to buff out the unfaded spots but I'm not sure it would work. Every car I've debadged has been painted after for this exact reason.

[Hajoca]

I used dental floss and some spray oil similar to WD40.

[eddie926]

Let the car sit out in the hot sun for a couple hours to heat up the adhesive tape that holds the badges on, or carefully heat it with a hairdryer or heat gun. Be careful if using a heat gun. I've seen pics of a tail light that somebody accidentally melted with a heat gun while doing the same thing.

Once heated, use dental floss or fishing line, insert it under one edge and carefully "saw" it back and forth until you cut through the adhesive tape. It's pretty easy.

The C A M R Y letters will be pegged, and so will the Toyota "Sombrero" emblem in the center of the trunk lid. If you want to lose those, you'll have to plan on filling holes and painting. The "Toyota" and "LE" badges should just be taped, but some people have reported pegs on theirs. I never figured out the magic decoder ring for determining which cars had them pegged. You won't know for sure til you take one off.

You may or may not have "ghosting" where the badges were depending on the condition of your paint. Again, you won't know til you take one off. I didn't have any ghosting on my badges, but I do have ghosting from a dealer applied dealer sticker and from some pin striping that I removed. You can only see the ghosting on my car if you're looking for it.

You can use something like Goof Off to remove the left over adhesive. Just wet a soft cloth with it and rub gently. Don't let it dwell on the paint too long and wash the area with soap and water to make sure you have it all cleaned off when you're done. Polish the whole area and then apply some sealant/wax and you'll be good to go.

Good luck!!

[BamZipPow]

I guess you could cover up that area with some vinyl wrap after you git the emblems off...

[ps_outrage]

The C A M R Y letters are glued on in my case, the letters have already been removed by previous owners and the adhesive tape is still on the car.

[ps_outrage]

Btw what is the best rubbing compound to move paint around, i bought some polish but it did not do anything for small scratches.

[eddie926]

Originally Posted by ps_outrage

Btw what is the best rubbing compound to move paint around, i bought some polish but it did not do anything for small scratches.

Hard to say what's needed without seeing it. If the scratches are such that your fingernail catches on them when you run it across them, then they'll be too deep for you to eliminate. If they're just shallow scratches/swirls in the clearcoat, then you could try something like Meguiars ScratchX, SwirlX or Ultimate Compound. Ultimate Compound is the most aggressive of those three. Normal recommendation is to start with the least aggressive product and work your way up if you need to. I'm not sure which is more aggressive between ScratchX or SwirlX, but they can both be used by hand and are relatively mild. And, all 3 products can generally be found at Wal Mart, Auto Zone, etc.

[ps_outrage]

there just light scratches nothing deep i just bought some turdle wax rubbing compound ill try and see if it works for me

[73sport]

Originally Posted by eddie926

Hard to say what's needed without seeing it. If the scratches are such that your fingernail catches on them when you run it across them, then they'll be too deep for you to eliminate. If they're just shallow scratches/swirls in the clearcoat, then you could try something like Meguiars ScratchX, SwirlX or Ultimate Compound. Ultimate Compound is the most aggressive of those three. Normal recommendation is to start with the least aggressive product and work your way up if you need to. I'm not sure which is more aggressive between ScratchX or SwirlX, but they can both be used by hand and are relatively mild. And, all 3 products can generally be found at Wal Mart, Auto Zone, etc.

Something to consider: although starting off w/the least aggressive sounds good, it results in 3x more paint loss. Most of this cars are hitting the 15+ year mark on paint and I'd opt for the aggressive approach first and then fine touch.

Personally, a brand new razor at just the right angle is what I used. I tried the floss and it seemed like a waste of time.

The mistake made is removing stuff and using rubbing compound and then not sealing it or applying wax. Sealent and wax will keep the clear coat looking good where as doing nothing will alloy it to fade rapidly once you break the surface polishing it.

Oh - don't use bondo to fill holes it shrink so much as to fall out. Use Epoxy of the no run formula to fill holes and then touch up paint unless you;re taking it to the body shop.

OK - slightly off topic but we're headed here anyway!

Multiple washes still wont come clean??
>> Paste from another post >>>

To make a car shine do the following!
Honestly its about four steps of labor intense rubbing if you don't have an electric buffer.

- Wash twice, remove all the tar, bugs, sap, do your touch up paint after cleaning wiping down with Prep-Sol or other Automotive paint cleaners to remove oils, silicone, grease ect. Apply touch up paint in layers as it dries. A bigger BLOB is a WORSE JOB in this case.


1) cutting compound removes deep surface scratches, oxidation, etching. If your clear coat is thin, it could go right through it. Lots of hard rubbing in circles.

2) polishing compound, this will remove the light scratches from the cutting compound. You'll start to see yourself as it begins to shine up and look like mirror.

3) Sealing compound, to stop crap from penetrating into the pores. bird shit and hardwater will still hammer the paint until you seal it and wax it. Don't stop short follow up or it will look like hell in a month.

4) Actual Wax, this top coat keeps everything on top so it doesn't bite and f'up the the work done above.

Yes, you can do quick fixes (one step does it all but it won't last or give the results you want). If you do the above, you will be amazed! It will look like F'g mirror and shine!

* Clean with degreaser get the tar and bugs off
3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound
3M Finesse-It II Finish Material
The Wax Shop "Safe Cut" Swirl and Haze Remover. Has a sealer in it too.
3M Perfect-It Liquid Wax, Show car Ultra High Gloss Finish

It'll take a couple of days solid work. Results if the clear coat is Good, will be priceless!

/73

[abew330]

jut FYI... my gen3.5 panel had the C A M R Y letters with pegs melted behind the cover. i had to remove and cover the holes from the pegs of the letters...

Originally Posted by ps_outrage

The C A M R Y letters are glued on in my case, the letters have already been removed by previous owners and the adhesive tape is still on the car.