3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 1995 Camry Wagon 3.0L and have replaced the three fuel lines and fuel filter. The problem is I can't get the engine to start. I checked all fuses, they are good. I pulled the fuel pump, applied power and it is running. Verified the correct wires are going to the fuel pump. I have at least 13 gallons of fuel in the tank. I had emptied the tank prior. I tried to prime the pump, but that only made a mess. When I took the fitting apart on the fuel outlet line at the fuel pump there was no fuel in it. I did prime the fuel filter with gas. I don't see any thing in my Chilton manual that addresses this. I've almost run the battery down with no starting. Anyone have a solution to this problem?
the pump doesnt turn on when you turn the key the pump turns on when you go to start it. unless you jump the dlc under the hood to activate the pump. i think it's like v+ to fp but not sure should look that up.
but was the car giving anyother problems before not starting? pull your spark plugs and see if they are wet
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Last edited by 2wickedtoyz; 07-10-2010 at 08:42 PM.
The EFI system was working fine. I was under the car replacing brake lines and decided to replace the fuel lines while everything was exposed. This week I'll review the system and try and find the correct way to jump the pump at the obd port.
i didnt prime anything when i replaced my fuel lines and fuel filter. try some starter spray to vefify this is a fuel issue. maybe you knocked something loose while under the hood?
On the 1995 Camry Wagon the only place to jump the fuel pump is at the fuel pump itself. I did that and it runs, however it does not pump anything. I opened the fitting at the fuel pump and expected fuel to leak or spray out and it doesn't. Does this sound like the pump itself has failed?
The correct terminals to jumper at the data link connector are +B & FP. Then the fuel pump will run when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. You should hear the pump running when testing. If you have an automotive stethoscope, or a long screw driver which you can put the handle up to your ear, put it on the fuel rail next to the fuel pressure regulator. You should hear the flow of fuel through the fuel rail, especially near the fuel regulator. If all this works, you know your fuel pump is working fine.
While I'm not all that familiar with Camry's, the 5th Gen Celicas use a circuit opening relay to operate the fuel pump. Jumping DLC terminals +B & FP bypasses this relay. It is still possible this relay could be faulty and causing your current problem.
I don't know what 3 fuel lines you replaced, but if you happened to disturb the wiring harness to the fuel pump in any way, that could be the cause of your current problem.
According to my manual there are no circuits to bypass on the '95 camry wagons 3.0L. It states you have to apply power at the fuel pump itself to test it. Which is fine, but it isn't pumping any fuel, though I can feel it vibrating.
dmend
sounds like ya got a bad fuel pump, if the pump has power but wont pump, it is clogged or bad. testing the pump this way is done to isolate it from the other systems.
I guess I haven't yet heard of a fuel pump that runs but doesn't produce any pressure. I never heard of an impeller failure.
Did you do anything with the fuel line replacements that would have been within the fuel tank itself? Just wondering if a hose connection within the tank came loose or broke.
Did you pull the fuel pump ever? How about these new lines, you flared them put fittings on them. Any chance one was assembled with a cap or plug which was supposed to be removed before installation?
Also, all three lines are different sizes yes? Is there anyway you crossed a connection and a line is no longer going where it belongs??
Edit: this is a return type system. It should purge air on its own. Have you cracked the fuel filter nut to see if fuel made to the filter? Key OFF Please!
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I guess I haven't yet heard of a fuel pump that runs but doesn't produce any pressure. I never heard of an impeller failure.
Did you do anything with the fuel line replacements that would have been within the fuel tank itself? Just wondering if a hose connection within the tank came loose or broke.
unfortunatly there are no hose connections within the fuel tank, just a sock attached to the bottom of the pump which exits into the lines outside of the tank.
the pump is just that an electric pump, similar to one youd find in a fountain. the impeller can sieze for a number of reasons and "feel" liek its working but not rotate.
OP...im guessing by your eariler post that you have put power directly to the pump with no results, this would indicate(unless im horribly wrong) that your pump has failed. a replacement pump is typically not a large expense and shoudl usually be replaced if replacing fuel lines anyways. Id reccomend replacing it, even if it doesnt turn out to be the culprit.
Hmm. I looked at several auto parts online stores, and they show the fuel pump provided with a rubber hose to attach the pump to the metal pipe inside the tank, which is all part of the fuel pump assembly. Even provides the hose straps for it. For a 95 Camry 3.0L wagon. But, maybe, the Toyota fuel pump assembly doesn't contain the rubber hose. Not sure how a parts store can sell the pump independent of the rest of the assembly and not have a rubber hose connect the the pump to the metal piping. But I don't have a Camry, just Celicas (which do have rubber hoses), so I really don't know for sure.
Most times, when a pump seizes but tries to run (hums), it draws enough current to blow a fuse. Otherwise, it typically open circuits, so you don't hear anything.
ive replaced a pump a few times and the do come separate, its actually really easy to replace thankfully. there is some small tubing on the pump assembly itself but nothing you cant test easily to see if fuel is moving.
one of my old pumps failed on my 95 V6. I tested it as the OP had, isolated from the rest of the system, and it made a humming sound, but nothing else. now back then i asked about it and the concencus was that it was a bad pump, so i replaced it (about 50 bucks) it seemed to do the trick. I never confirmed what might have been wrong, but by process of elimination, we figured out what was not working properly.
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