3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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My fiance tried to get her 2000 camry smog checked and the guy wouldn't even test her because the check engine light or sensor is not working. I am a pretty decent backyard mechanic...but only have worked on chevys. What goes into changing the sensor?
Um...the check engine light is just a bulb that is hooked up to the car computer (ECM). You just have to pull the cluster out...I'm sure there's a sticky fer that. Good luck!
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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I wouldn't assume the ECU is bad. Maybe the CEL was left on all the time and the problem causing it was never repaired, and the bulb finally burned out. Does the CEL light up when you put the key in the ON position? If not, the first thing I would do is check the bulb and replace it if necessary. If, after replacing, the bulb remains lit after the engine starts, then you need to check what codes you have and resolve the issues causing those codes.
Well if it wouldn't pass inspection, it's not because the light bulb is burned out. It's probably the ECU.
Thank your lucky starts that you dont live in commiefornia...here, its an automatic fail here if your CEL is burned out.
So, my fiance actually got a mechanic to pull the codes and the ecu was functional, but it was throwing a bad 02 sensor.
To replace the bulb and th bad sensor, the mechanic wanted 800 bux
Needless to say theres no way i am paying that much for an 02 sensor swap.
Thank your lucky starts that you dont live in commiefornia...here, its an automatic fail here if your CEL is burned out.
So, my fiance actually got a mechanic to pull the codes and the ecu was functional, but it was throwing a bad 02 sensor.
To replace the bulb and th bad sensor, the mechanic wanted 800 bux
Needless to say theres no way i am paying that much for an 02 sensor swap.
An O2 sensor cost like 60-70$ for a direct fit Denso, and like 40$ for a universal Denso. If you are mechanically inclined, it could be a nice Saturday morning depending on which O2 sensor is bad.
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
It should only take an hour to replace an O2 sensor. It may take a couple hours to get the instrument cluster out, check all bulbs and replace those that are burned out, and put everything back together again. So you should be able to do both on a nice Saturday morning.
Just a word of caution; if the O2 sensor was bad for a long time, long enough for the CEL bulb to burn out, and knowing the engine runs a bit rich due to a bad O2 sensor, you may have some other bad news once the current fault is fixed - such as a catalytic converter no longer functioning. I hope this isn't the case, but things like that can happen if CEL faults aren't handled relatively soon.
If the OBDII diagnostic computer is reading a bad sensor, it would not be because of a burnt out bulb, it is generally a ECU issue. But, seeing the OBDII is kicking out codes, it must be functional. Projectvertx is on the money. 93celica, it is highly dependant as to which O2 sensor is bad. Surely the one on the exhaust manifold is easy to replace on the 5SFE, but as projectvertx alluded to, if it is the O2 sensor on the exhaust under the rig, then that could be a days work to remove it due to rust and just it's sheer location. Also, projectvertx is on the money, I would go for the universal denso, but I'm a cheapskate. I bought the universal one, and all thats needed is to cut off the connector of the old O2 sensor, and solder & heatshrink tubing on the new sensor, and you'll be good to go.
For the CEL, check to see if the light goes on when you turn the ignition on. It should go on, and off. If not remove the bulb, I would test the bulb. If the bulb is fine, I am leaning towards an OBDII diagnostic issue.
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i love my 1992 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L 5S-FE - 73K
9005 NIGHT GUIDE LOW BEAMS|FOG LAMPS|PIONEER HU&AUDIO|KEYLESS ENTRY 1995 Acura Legend LS KA7 3.2L C32A - 87K
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The mechanic already got the codes (and a good mechanic would have told the customer what the codes were, so the customer could make some choices on how to fix). I'm sure the codes were specific enough to not whether the O2 sensor at fault is the pre-cat or post-cat O2 sensor.
My viewpoint on the CEL bulb being burned out is that one would never know if there was an emissions problem, so why would one take it in to get the codes read when there is no indication of a need to do it? Same as with a CEL that is always left on because of a known, not important, problem. One would never know if a new problem that is more significant ever pops up, because the CEL light is on and the owner no longer heeds it.
If the OBDII diagnostic computer is reading a bad sensor, it would not be because of a burnt out bulb, it is generally a ECU issue. But, seeing the OBDII is kicking out codes, it must be functional. Projectvertx is on the money. 93celica, it is highly dependant as to which O2 sensor is bad. Surely the one on the exhaust manifold is easy to replace on the 5SFE, but as projectvertx alluded to, if it is the O2 sensor on the exhaust under the rig, then that could be a days work to remove it due to rust and just it's sheer location. Also, projectvertx is on the money, I would go for the universal denso, but I'm a cheapskate. I bought the universal one, and all thats needed is to cut off the connector of the old O2 sensor, and solder & heatshrink tubing on the new sensor, and you'll be good to go.
For the CEL, check to see if the light goes on when you turn the ignition on. It should go on, and off. If not remove the bulb, I would test the bulb. If the bulb is fine, I am leaning towards an OBDII diagnostic issue.
Yup, right on. I dished out ~180$ for all 3 O2 sensors (Denso), but I chose the specific ones for my car. I figured rather than deal with wiring, and maybe I wouldn't do it perfect and what not. So I figured, rather than pay twice for the same part, I might as well buy a direct fit
Quote:
Originally Posted by 93celicaconv
My viewpoint on the CEL bulb being burned out is that one would never know if there was an emissions problem, so why would one take it in to get the codes read when there is no indication of a need to do it? Same as with a CEL that is always left on because of a known, not important, problem. One would never know if a new problem that is more significant ever pops up, because the CEL light is on and the owner no longer heeds it.
True, I'm sure OP knows which sensor is out. Let's hope his mechanic was nice enough to give him that much But on the same token, look at it this way: Say he repairs the CEL bulb only, it will remain on due to the prevailing O2 sensor issue, it won't blink or become redder in color or anything if any additional codes are reported. It will simply remain. I would simply fix both issues at the same time since he will have the car out of commission for a couple of hours anyways.
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I would simply fix both issues at the same time since he will have the car out of commission for a couple of hours anyways.
I think we were both trying to say exactly this, but we didn't get this across very well to each other, until you wrote it clearly. I totally, totally agree with you on this - we are on the same page.
Cali92rs--Responding to your question, "What goes into changing the sensor?". Here's a post I added a few months ago after changing the sensors on our '98 Sienna. If your Camry has a V6 engine, I *think* it's the same 1MZ-FE but even if it's not, the steps in my posts linked below should be helpful. My main intent in sharing this with you is to encourage you to use the UNIVERSAL Denso replacements. As you've read above, the universal is a lot less expensive but it's not much trouble to swap out.
By the way, if you DO have the same 1MZ-FE engine, if it came with California emissions, the upstream sensors (in the exhaust manifolds and before the catalytic converter) are AIR/FUEL sensors, and the downstream (after the catalytic converter) sensor is a heated oxygen (o2) sensor.
I paid $40.89 each for the three sensors, about $5 for a can of PB Blaster (to get the old sensors interested in coming out!), and I borrowed the o2 wrench set from Advance Auto. The whole job took a couple of hours, and I saved a lot of money. You can do this!
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Good luck!
Now i just have to find a tutorial on how to remove the cluster
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