3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I performed a compression test today. I failed to read the portion of the instructions that say to pour a small amount of oil down any tube where the psi number is too low.
Nevertheless, if oiling it is required for an accurate result, apparently that already indicates a problem with that cylinder?
The numbers I got left to right are: 99, 95, 107, 95. I forgot what the order of the cylinders is.
Apparently they're supposed to be around 178+ and no less than 142. So... ~100 sounds just a tad low methinks.
I used the compression tester provided by AutoZone, as I forgot to bring part of mine with me to where I was doing the test. Could something have gone wrong with the test that gave such low numbers?
One observation I made during testing: rather than a gradual slow or speedy increase to the final compression number, the gauge jumped up to 45 during the first "revolution" and then jumped to the final number... each time.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
How long did you crank the engine, and was it up to operating temperature?
About four seconds, but that didn't matter. After the first revolution it jumped to 45; after the second one it jumped to the final number. Any further cranking did not yield a higher number.
I did the test right after a lengthy drive.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
I would try re-reading the instructions and go at it again. Make sure you do it with your riging though, I don't trust Autozone equiment when it comes to this kind of stuff
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I would try re-reading the instructions and go at it again. Make sure you do it with your riging though, I don't trust Autozone equiment when it comes to this kind of stuff
The one I actually own is from Harbor Freight. However, AutoZone's appeared pretty new. The transparent film was still over the face of the gauge.
I guess I will redo the test in the days to come.
Btw, I followed the write-up by fenixus. I just failed to read the last section...
EDIT: Is it important to disconnect the spark plug wires from the coil packs?
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
It is important to disable EFI (fuel and spark). Especially fuel, since you'll end up with cylinders full of gas. Remove the 15A EFI fuse to disable both of them. Make sure your battery is fully charged as well.
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
It is important to disable EFI (fuel and spark). Especially fuel, since you'll end up with cylinders full of gas. Remove the 15A EFI fuse to disable both of them. Make sure your battery is fully charged as well.
I did remove the fuse as per the instructions. Does that one fuse disable spark also?
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
I have myself contributed to this thread with my experiences. It will certainly help answer many questions for you...
__________________ 1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
I have myself contributed to this thread with my experiences. It will certainly help answer many questions for you...
Yes, that's the write-up I followed to do the test.
I removed the EFI fuse. I jammed the throttle open. I removed the spark plug wires off of the spark plugs, but I did not disconnect them from the coil packs. I removed the spark plugs. I inserted the hose and screwed it into the spark plug hole. I attached the gauge to the hose. I kept my foot on the gas and turned the key, waiting 4 seconds.
I don't know what else there is to do except try my own compression tester instead of AutoZone's.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
No, 107 psi is not on the border. It is way to low. And do not use oil for the first round of the compression pressure test.
142 psi is on the border of the engine being able to run and provide some kind of operation. 178 psi is the minimum range of normal pressure. Many of these engines get upwards of 195 to 210 psi when doing the test, without using oil.
The oil addition comes into play if your compression pressures are low, to help determine the cause. If the compression pressures increase as a result of adding oil, the cause of the low compression pressures has to do with piston rings or scored cylinder walls. If the compression pressures do not change after adding oil, the problem is poor valve sealing. So oil comes to play to help diagnose low compression pressures obtained in the first round of tests when no oil is added.
I agree with Chris Crash, you may have used a compressor gauge that is not working properly and always reading low. If your compression pressures were really this low, your engine wouldn't be of much use in normal driving situations anymore. I would use a different compression tester. Make sure the o-ring at the end of the hose that screws into the spark plug hole is in good shape and not missing. A little lube on that o-ring before each cylinder test is always a good idea.
I meant that it's on the border of being more than 14 away from all of the others, even if all of the numbers are too low.
OK, now I understand what you mean. The 14 psi spread only comes into play if the compression pressures are all above the minimum 178 psi (meaning individual pressures are OK, but the distribution is not). If any pressures are below 178 psi, then one needs to understand there is a major wear issue or primary problem at work that should be fixed soon, and the 14 psi variation between cylinders is of secondary importance.
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