3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I cannot get my distributor loose! I have read every post here about my situation and I now feel like an expert on distributors but for some reason I still can't get past square one.
There are two bolts holding down the distributor. I took them both off. I know that is all that should be holding it in. I jiggled it, wiggled it, pulled soft, pulled hard, shook it, one mechanic I talked to even suggested putting a piece of wood underneath it and tapping on the wood with a hammer to loosen it up. NOTHING is working! I'm fresh out of ideas. This is day 3 of trying to remove a distributor.
All I wanted to do was replace the ignition coil. I didn't think it would be this frustrating! As a last resort, I even tried to just take off the ignition coil without removing the whole distributor. Impossible!!
I replaced the distributor finally, but the car still won't start. It cranks but it's a little weak. I posted a video of me trying to start it because I know it helps to hear. Went over all wires and connections and everything looks fine. Just ready to set the timing now.
1. The Toyota dealership I took it to removed the distributor cap and the spark plug wires from the cap, so I had to guess where they went on the new cap. I don't think you can really mess this up, but know that I did have to put them back on myself.
2. The battery is completely dead. As you can see in the video I had to turn on my emergency battery in order to try and start the car. Perhaps there is not enough power in that little thing to give my car the power it needs?
3. Before I took it to the dealership, it was at another mechanic who couldn't really help me but did mention that my AM1 fuse kept blowing every time he tried to start the car. Old ignition coil??? Not sure if it's still blown or they replaced it. I've looked for it but can only find the AM2 fuse. I posted pictures of that too so maybe someone can help shine some light on my situation.
By the way, car repair is really fun. I don't know why I haven't been doing this more often!
From your pictures you have a 15 amp fuse in the slot for the AM2 fuse. It should be a 30 amp fuse. It's the lightest colored blue fuse just under the 7.5 amp red fuse. Get a 30 amp fuse in there and then try to start it.
Mike
The Following User Says Thank You to Mike Gerber For This Useful Post:
I see you breifly mentioned that you "timed the distributor" but you do know that you can't just slide the old out and put a new one back in and expect it to run?
Hint: if the rotor was for example straight up at 12:00 O'clock and you pulled the old dizzy out, then put it back and it was still at 12:00 you should be fine, but only if the engine was NOT rotated between pulling and installing.
In short the harmonic balancer mark at TDC needs to be indexed to the dizzy properly. That is, when aligned with the timing mark at 0 degrees BTDC it tells you the location of the #1 cylinder piston. When the #1 cylinder is at TDC, the rotor to the #1 plug should be pointed to the wire headed to cylinder #1. The trick is knowing if the valves of the #1 cylinder are closed so its on the compression stroke.
If you already know this and did all this, great. If not let us know and this coupled with the fuse issue could get you up and running.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
The Following User Says Thank You to 73sport For This Useful Post:
Well, I had a guy help me check to see if I was getting any spark and I wasn't. That was exactly when you replied about the AM2 fuse. We put a 30 amp in there and BINGO!! It started so quick and easy I almost cried!
Now, I can tell a slight difference in the sound of the engine from before, it's not bad though. It's not backfiring or anything, but I will now use a timing light and make sure that the timing is perfect.
Then I will start learning how to fix/replace my leaking radiator.
One step at a time.
Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it!
P.S. I am not a mechanic and the only repair I have done to my car is replacing a flat tire. So I just want to give a little encouragement to the others out there who are trying to learn how to do their own repairs. IT CAN BE DONE!
By the way, I DID NOT set the #1 cylinder to TDC before taking out the distributor. And I know that is what I should've done now.
But I was very sure to make marks with my old distributor housing and marked the placement of the old rotor before taking it out. I guess I just got lucky putting the new one in exactly the way the old one was. So it's risky but can be done. I can tell it's not quite perfect as I mentioned, but the timing light will take care of that.
Hey man, congrats are getting your car up and running. Awesome feeling it is, huh??
Like you, I am just beginning to learn how to properly maintain and fix-up my Camrys. I'm not yet at the level where I can pitch in advice here at TN, but I certainly can document some of my guess-and-check ideas and maybe it will help someone.
you really dont have to set the motor to TDC to yank out the distributor. its slotted and can only go in exactly or 180 degrees off. you just need to know the general relation of the rotor to the head.
^^ Yes. You have a 50% chance of getting it right. You're going to have to use a timing light as well, it's very difficult to re-install and get the exact timing even if you place marks.
I see you breifly mentioned that you "timed the distributor" but you do know that you can't just slide the old out and put a new one back in and expect it to run?
Hint: if the rotor was for example straight up at 12:00 O'clock and you pulled the old dizzy out, then put it back and it was still at 12:00 you should be fine, but only if the engine was NOT rotated between pulling and installing.
In short the harmonic balancer mark at TDC needs to be indexed to the dizzy properly. That is, when aligned with the timing mark at 0 degrees BTDC it tells you the location of the #1 cylinder piston. When the #1 cylinder is at TDC, the rotor to the #1 plug should be pointed to the wire headed to cylinder #1. The trick is knowing if the valves of the #1 cylinder are closed so its on the compression stroke.
If you already know this and did all this, great. If not let us know and this coupled with the fuse issue could get you up and running.
haha - apparently you can!
Hey, good job! Hats off to you for marking the rotor and putting it back the way it came out! That's what made this a success!
Keep tinkering and ask away when in doubt, its how we all got here.
Cheers!
/73
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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94 Camry 4cyl: Distributor from hell!
and maybe it will help someone.
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