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planning to remove broken 10mm bolts under car, need tools
hi guys,
as some of you know i found 2 or 3 broken off 10mm bolts holding the black metal splash shield under radiator (that splash shield is a part of suspension). also found other 2 bolts missing, so basically my splash shield is hanging under car on like 2-3 bolts now - can't remember exactly, but there is 7 total of them.
so, new bolts (and other minor parts) are on order, in meantime i'm planning on getting the proper tools which would also serve other purpose in future.
i have to admit i'm looking for cheap tools (no expensive brand names like Makita and stuff). I like cheap american products off Pittsburgh factory, none of them failed me ever and i got whole bunch of them already.
b) this one is 1/2'' drive, 19.2V power, max 1050rpm, reversible
this one is a drill and driver, so i guess it would be best, but then will this work with the extractor kit above ?
You only need a drill to drill the proper size hole into the head of the bolt. Then tap the extractor into the hole and use either a crescent wrench or a socket to back out the bolt.
The extractors are square drive.
I prefer this type for extracting bolts with stripped, rounded heads:
No drilling. They go right over the top of the bolt , have a reverse twist and will bite into the head for a firm grip to get it out.
Much easier than drilling. especially something as small as 10mm.
I got it from Sears. $12.00 for a set of 4 sizes.-IIRC.
as some of you know i found 2 or 3 broken off 10mm bolts holding the black metal splash shield under radiator (that splash shield is a part of sus
i have to admit i'm looking for cheap tools (no expensive brand names like Makita and stuff). I like cheap american products off Pittsburgh factory, none of them failed me ever and i got whole bunch of them already.
i have no idea what drive they all area or if they would fit the cordless (this is a must for me) drills/drivers i found in HFT:
any advise, please ?
thank you
That looks like the real "bolt" extracters....
(.....Most places I just checked to get mine tried to sell me "screw" extracters....they have finer threads and are NOT designed to remove bolts....just wood screws & the like.)
...And if you are asking about a drill for the extracters....DON'T use a power drill with the extracter!!!!! Noooo!
Either use a t-bar wrench designed for taps...(The best plan if it can clear the area you have to work in...)
Or...do like I did and just CAREFULLY just use the correct size open wrench or adjustable wrench to turn the extracter ...!
...Be extremely careful...the last thing you want to do is break a hardened extractor bit off in your broken bolt!!!!
...Turn slowly, keep your applied force at a 90 degree angle to the bolt & try to use plenty of penetrating oil to help loosen the bolt!...Oh yea, remember to turn "counter-clockwise"!!!!
God luck & take your time...remember that HF stuff isn't always made of the best materials, (the price is right thou...) so be as gentle as you can, & still get the job done!
I prefer this type for extracting bolts with stripped, rounded heads:
No drilling. They go right over the top of the bolt , have a reverse twist and will bite into the head for a firm grip to get it out.
Much easier than drilling. especially something as small as 10mm.
I got it from Sears. $12.00 for a set of 4 sizes.-IIRC.
... Mrjedi....you replied as I was typing! That type bolt remover looks cool too (but won't help with a "broken" bolt or stud)
Also Home Depot tried to sell me that type when I declined their "screw removers"... and as I recall... they wanted $25!!!! (and I thought it only had one universal size!)
Yes it will .
These extractors will even grip a stud with no head at all. I removed an exhaust manifold stud that I broke one of those other type extractors off in.
Of course, there has to be part of it sticking out to grip on to.
If it's broken below the surface ,then yeah, your right-won't work.
Yes it will .
These extractors will even grip a stud with no head at all. I removed an exhaust manifold stud that I broke one of those other type extractors off in.
Of course, there has to be part of it sticking out to grip on to.
If it's broken below the surface ,then yeah, your right-won't work.
Cool! I didn't think of that cause almost every bolt I've ever broken off over my 40 years of tinkering... has busted off flush or close to! ......
...And so far I've been lucky enough to get any studs or whatever... that stick out to any usable length....with just a good set of vicegrips locked down really tight...and maybe a little heat & plenty PO!
But I can see how that new tool will come in really handy, in cases where you have limited working room !!!
yeah, my all broken bolts (all so far in my experience) break off below surface hehe, so yeah i will need extractors drill kit for sure as there is no way to catch them above surface (sitting flush or below).
the cordless drills/drivers i linked are my ideas, as as i mentioned i want to also use it/them for other purposes like home repair, drilling walls, using as "impact tool" for stubborn bolts on car, etc.
only problem that i can't decide between 3/8'' drill (which excludes using anything except for drilling) vs 1/2'' drill AND driver (which would help a lot on stubborn bolts like suspension jobs or crank bolt if it ever comes to that).
question is: would i be able to use 1/2'' cordless drill/driver (2 settings, low up to 400rpm and hi-speed up to 1050rpm) with around 20 clutch settings (for torque limits) with the extractor kit i linked ?
is there any adapter allowing use of smaller drill bits with 1/2'' cordless drill ? or rather 1/2'' drive means max it can take while all smaller are fine (maybe with some adapters) ?
I plan on using lots of PB blaster before even starting to extract those broken flush bolts. so 1st i drill, then 2nd i extract (with reversed thread bits).
i need electrical battery powered tools as i work on my car in the parking lot (no power access, no running water).
P.S. any broken off bolts that were sticking out i was also able to remove with jaw grip pliers (2 of them so far) except one 10mm bolt which was fused in the EGR valve body (side connecting to exhaust pipe on head) ... even a local shop couldn't remove it after 2 phases of heating up (valve got destroyed in process of second heat up phase) ... well now i have a new OEM valve (newer generation), so happy end after all hehe.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
When I have a bolt that can't be removed easily, I don't bother trying to get it out. I file the bolt flat, then drill a small hole directly into the center. After that, I drill the correct size, then use a tap. It's far easier than trying for hours to remove the bolt.
The exception is on an important part like a cylinder head, you want the original threads, re-tapping the hole can lead to weaknesses (or you could drill too far and destroy the head, or drill crooked etc). But on a cosmetic part it doesn't matter. Put some anti-seize when assembling everything.
[quote=fenixus;3261933]thanks for suggestions guys
yeah, my all broken bolts (all so far in my experience) break off below surface hehe, so yeah i will need extractors drill kit for sure as there is no way to catch them above surface (sitting flush or below).
the cordless drills/drivers i linked are my ideas, as as i mentioned i want to also use it/them for other purposes like home repair, drilling walls, using as "impact tool" for stubborn bolts on car, etc.
only problem that i can't decide between 3/8'' drill (which excludes using anything except for drilling) vs 1/2'' drill AND driver (which would help a lot on stubborn bolts like suspension jobs or crank bolt if it ever comes to that).
question is: would i be able to use 1/2'' cordless drill/driver (2 settings, low up to 400rpm and hi-speed up to 1050rpm) with around 20 clutch settings (for torque limits) with the extractor kit i linked ?
is there any adapter allowing use of smaller drill bits with 1/2'' cordless drill ? or rather 1/2'' drive means max it can take while all smaller are fine (maybe with some adapters) ?
quote]
...
Well....for ME...I wouldn't buy a 1/2 drive drill BEFORE I owned a 3/8's...however it is nice to have both!
( A 1/2 chuck, should squeeze down to very small bits...but read on why you shouldn't try that with a true 1/2 drill!)
The new 3/8's 18v or better cordless drills have way more power than you need for most anything! (I love the cordless drills...until it's time to buy new batteries!!!)
.....But a true 1/2" drill is a thing of beauty...a beast to be respected !
The old Sears 1/2 110 volt I have, thats at least 40 years old..., will still try to break your arm if you let the bit get stuck!!!!
I only get out the 1/2" if I'm using a 1/2 bit or larger.... and then ONLY if I'm drilling thru heavy thick steel!
It will snap any drill bits smaller in a heartbeat!
(Keep in mind that you can buy 1/2 drill bits & larger, with 3/8 shanks to use in your 3/8's drill. So really, maybe for you, no need to get the larger 1/2 chuck?)
AND...any 3/8's cordless you buy...SHOULD have a clutch! I'm not sure why you think you couldn't use it for everything ?
As far as a "driver"...do you mean a "hammer" effect? I have one & it's a bit much... snapped a woodscrew in a heartbeat!
I think it's only real use is for drilling into concrete AND that said...I have always drilled concrete just fine with concrete bits and a regular drill...never used that feature on my new drill except to try it out!
Also....just my opinion...but I've never had much luck with off-brand cordless drills...they last a few months & thats it, waste of $50.
So I spend a bit more for Makita or another name brand...but maybe it all comes out the same.... since you can buy 4 off-brands for one Makita...
When I have a bolt that can't be removed easily, I don't bother trying to get it out. I file the bolt flat, then drill a small hole directly into the center. After that, I drill the correct size, then use a tap. It's far easier than trying for hours to remove the bolt.
The exception is on an important part like a cylinder head, you want the original threads, re-tapping the hole can lead to weaknesses (or you could drill too far and destroy the head, or drill crooked etc). But on a cosmetic part it doesn't matter. Put some anti-seize when assembling everything.
Ummm... You probably are right about just a cosmetic part such as a splash pan....
But anything else...you are right on about drilling crooked, etc.
Plus...if you are drilling it out any way...why not just use an Easy-Out once you drill the pilot hole?
I think for most....be very carefull trying to drill out a bolt exactly so you can just run a tap thru to clean up the threads...unless you have a very heavy expensive machine shop drill press available to you!
I know I could NOT pull that off...even with my 24" drill press!
Ummm... You probably are right about just a cosmetic part such as a splash pan....
But anything else...you are right on about drilling crooked, etc
Well I had the same problem on my splash pan. Two broke off, I tried an easy out but there was no way it was going to work. So I drilled and tapped, takes only a few minutes. I've gotten quite good at drilling a hole straight. Having good drill bits is essential for this stuff, I have a high quality metric set that go in 0.5mm increments, very handy!
I had to do the same thing with the exhaust bolts in my manifold, where it meets the downpipe. The studs eventually broke off (all 3) after repeated attempts to remove them. The bolt was basically fused to the manifold, impossible to remove. By drilling carefully and tapping them, I was able to restore the original threads. But like you said, YMMV, different methods work for different people.
hmmm, so an 18V 3/8'' would be enough then ? anybody knows how much torque (min & max) that gives ?
only problem they advertise the 3/8'' as a drill only (up to 500rpm) ... so i guess i wouldn't be able to use it with any tools like sockets & hex bits for ratchets ... btw how exactly do you use those with a drill/driver type ? is there any adapter that you mount in a drill catch, so it can take such tools ?
price wise both 3/8'' and 1/2'' are same cheap to me, only i don't know if the 1/2'' can actually catch small drill bits (like the ones i need) or not.
i have an adapter from 1/2'' drive to 3/8'' so i guess it would be able to use also 3/8'' driven tools (with some low speed & low torque setting of course)... still wondering which one i should get. I guess i will visit the store after work on some evening and take a closer look...
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
i was asking about "adapter" for the cordless drill's catch, so i can attach sockets and stuff to that and not only slide the round drill bits into catch thing ("mouth" of a cordless drill). in other words i'd like to be able to use sockets (that i use with ratchets or torque wrenches) on my cordless drill. i think the piece i'm talking about is called a "double ended driver bit".
from description i see that it's included with 1/2'' drill, but 3/8'' drill doesn't have it... wondering if i can get that separately for the 3/8'' ... or maybe i should just get the 1/2'' drill instead and forget the case hehe
... but then again is the question if 1/2'' drill can catch the tiny small drill bits (smallest size of extractor kit)... anybody knows ?
i guess i should go to store soon and see for myself...
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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planning to remove broken 10mm bolts under car, need tools
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