3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I just had an engine swap done on my 5s-fe camry. its a freakin mess. -sigh-
anyways, the swap was done without disconnecting the AC hoses. the compressor was just hung off to the side while the engine was off. now, the AC light blinks and it blows ambient temperature air.
at first i thought it was the refridgerant. i went and bought a refil kit but when i plug the pressure guage to the low line, it shows 150psi ?? like in the middle of the red region. so my first question is: is there something wrong with the refridgerant pressure ?
if not, then should i check the clutch relay ?
if yes, how do i evac some of the pressure ?
thanks a lot,
d
PS. I realize that some things MIGHT have been connected wrong with the swap but if its ok, could we go step by step ? i know nothing about the AC system so i don't want to be overwhelmed =[. im so stressed out between my two camries.
compressor not running right, make sure the high pressure switch is hooked up as is the wire for the clutch on the compressor, double check the belt tension too.
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PS. I realize that some things MIGHT have been connected wrong with the swap but if its ok, could we go step by step ? i know nothing about the AC system so i don't want to be overwhelmed =[. im so stressed out between my two camries.
Take it to a shop.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
The 150 psi pressure on the low side tap is normal for a system that is not running. Your high side tap pressure would be the same when not running. When running, your low side pressure will be lower, and your high side pressure will be higher. That is what the compressor (pump) does (causes the pressure differential).
In swinging your A/C compressor off to the side for your engine swap, you may have caused the wiring harness to separate a little, or you may have broken a wire in the harness or on the compressor itself. Since you changed the compressor already, you may want to check your wiring harness to see if the wiring is good, especially the wire involving the magnetic clutch. You can check that with a 12VDC test light, when the engine is running and the A/C system is turned on properly. It is possible your pressure switch is not functioning too. That dual pressure switch should have continuity when it senses pressures between 30 psi to 384 psi, and no continuity below or above this range. If you have a 4-wire switch, you should be checking terminals 3 & 4 for this test (terminals 1 & 2 are used for the high speed fan control).
The AC light will blink on my 00 Sienna when the compressor gets wet. Hard rain will do it. Happened at the car wash yesterday. I typically shut it off and wait a few minutes and turn it back on so I don't know if there is come kind of sensor that senses moisture or belt slippage involved. but it cuts the compressor out completely. I have in the past on other cars run a wire straight to the compressor to turn it on manually just to test if it works (cools) and if it does, then the problem is somewhere else in the electrical system.
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2001 Solara + 2000 Sienna
Last edited by Cranky-Condor; 07-19-2010 at 09:01 AM.
The 150 psi pressure on the low side tap is normal for a system that is not running. Your high side tap pressure would be the same when not running.
If you're referring to static pressure then for R12 150psi would equal ambient temperature of about 117 degrees and for 134a it would be 111 degrees. There is no "normal" because the pressure is dependent on temperature. Static pressure is no indication of proper charge level but you do need a minimum (about 45psi) so that the low pressue switch allows the compressor to switch on.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
If you're referring to static pressure then for R12 150psi would equal ambient temperature of about 117 degrees and for 134a it would be 111 degrees. There is no "normal" because the pressure is dependent on temperature. Static pressure is no indication of proper charge level but you do need a minimum (about 45psi) so that the low pressue switch allows the compressor to switch on.
i think i might be referring to static pressure because when the AC light blinks, the compressor is off.
is there anyway to check the refridgerant pressur in my case ? like you said, the compressor must be on in order to get an accurant refridgerant pressure reading but the ac light starts flashing which means the compressor is off...
All: The 150 psi reference was just to acknowledge post #1 - if the compressor isn't running, the low side pressure cannot be in the "green" region of a low-pressure A/C gauge. The fact that you have this 150 psi static pressure is an indication the A/C compressor should run when turned on, if everything else works. But you can't determine if you have a properly charged system yet or not.
The flashing A/C light simply means that when the A/C compressor was running, it was determined to be running too slow relative to the engine speed, so the A/C amplifier shut down the A/C system and is flashing this light. Has nothing directly to do with moisture (but indirectly, water can cause belt slippage).
To both people who have similar problems, here is what I would do:
1. With a 12VDC test light, disconnect the wiring harness at the A/C compressor, ground one lead of the 12VDC test light, and put the other lead into the wiring harness terminal that ties to the compressor magnetic clutch. Then watch the test light as another person starts the car and turns on the A/C system. Did the test light turn on for a short while? If so, you are getting a signal to the compressor to engage the clutch (the light probably will go out shortly afterwards because the A/C amplifier detected slippage or no speed and shut the system down). If the 12VDC test light turned on, one needs to check the wire on the compresssor to make sure it is good down to the magnetic clutch, that the magnetic clutch is capable of engaging (need to provide a separate 12VDC power source to this wire and listen for engagement), and if it engages, turn the compressor pulley to see if the input shaft to the compressor rotates. If the 12VDC test light did not come on, step 2.
2. With an ohm meter or continuity meter (not with a 12VDC test light), test the dual pressure switch with the wiring harness disconnected. That dual pressure switch should have continuity when it senses pressures between 30 psi to 384 psi, and no continuity below or above this range. If you already know your static pressure is 150 psi, this is within the range, so your dual pressure switch should have continuity. If you have a 4-wire switch, you should be checking terminals 3 & 4 for this test (terminals 1 & 2 are used for the high speed fan control). If your dual pressure switch appears to be working, step 3.
3. Check your wiring diagram for the dual pressure switch, if a 4-wire switch. If only a 2-wire switch, no need to check a wiring diagram. Disconnect the wiring harness from the dual pressure switch. Look for the two wires in the wiring harness that involve the compressor magnetic clutch activation. Jumper the two terminals in the wiring harness of this switch. Turn the A/C system on. Is the A/C compressor running now? If yes, you likely have a dual pressure switch failure. If not, there has to be a wiring failure somewhere, or the A/C amplifier has failed.
The Following User Says Thank You to 93celicaconv For This Useful Post:
I'll step down on the A/C amplifier for this model year Camry, as I'm not sure. Older ones did, but perhaps these newer ones do not.
Anyway, thought I would share this with you:
I just confirmed that I have the bad mag clutch relay described in the Toyota Service Bulletin TSB EL011-05, part number 90987-02022. It is off-white in color. The service bulletin says to replace it with part number 90987-02028, which I plan to do ASAP. Thanks for the contributions of all the posters!
There are 233 posts on this subject on the above website. The red text is from post #30. Apparently cleaning an air filter behind the glove box has helped with some of these problems, and some have said the owners manual recommends changing this filter every 15k miles? Well, that might be something to look at. But apparently this relay, located in the relay junction box next to the battery under the hood, has been a major issue regarding this specific topic. Just something to consider.
It's probably incorporated in the ECU if not a separate unit.
correct the gen 4 5s had it built in to the ecu while the mz had them separate, there is a amplifier on the 5s it's just built in to the ecu and if your not handy with a soldering iron and a o-scope you have to replace the whole ecu.
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3. Check your wiring diagram for the dual pressure switch, if a 4-wire switch. If only a 2-wire switch, no need to check a wiring diagram. Disconnect the wiring harness from the dual pressure switch. Look for the two wires in the wiring harness that involve the compressor magnetic clutch activation. Jumper the two terminals in the wiring harness of this switch. Turn the A/C system on. Is the A/C compressor running now? If yes, you likely have a dual pressure switch failure. If not, there has to be a wiring failure somewhere, or the A/C amplifier has failed.
AliRazoR, what a good A/C U-Tube video you provided. Excellent process shown. It is not specific to your car, but the principles are the same.
The only two terminals you need to be concerned about on a 4-wire dual pressure switch are terminals 1 & 4, per the wiring diagram you have shown, regarding getting the A/C compressor clutch engaged. Terminals 2 & 3 involve the activation of the radiator and condenser fans. You can do what the video showed, which is to check continuity (zero resistance) across the switch terminals 1 & 4 (if you got continuity, your switch is good and you have enough refrigerant in the system to at least get your A/C compressor started). You can test for voltage in the wiring harness which involves terminal 1 with a voltmeter (with the negative lead grounded), turn the engine on and turn the A/C system on, to make sure terminal 1 in the wiring harness has voltage on it. If this all tests out, lastly you can jumper terminals 1 & 4 of the dual pressure switch wiring harness, which should cause the MG CLT Relay to close and activate the compressor clutch (with engine running and A/C turned on). Does your A/C compressor start running?
If not, it's this last step (getting the relay to activate, or getting the relay contact to close to transmit current) where I think your problem lies. If we get this far, and the A/C compressor has not turned on, put everything back together again at the dual pressure switch. Pull the MG CLT relay out. According to your wiring diagram, terminals 1 & 2 are the coil leads, terminals 3 and 5??? (not sure why this isn't 4) are for your contact relay to the A/C compressor magnetic clutch. With the engine running and the A/C system turned on, I would jump terminals 3 & 5 (or 4 if the wiring diagram is a misprint) and see if the A/C compressor starts running. If it does, pull the jumper out. You've just pretty much verified the problem is with this relay. See post #16 in this thread.
By-the-way, I see in page 3 of your wiring diagram that your car does indeed have an AC Amplifier. I thought it did.
i connect the terminal 1 & 4 the fans start working but the ac was flashing.
when i connect the terminal 3 & 2 the ac was not flashing.
i don't know maybe the first owner has did something with this car that i dont know
OK, you are right, now I see the footnotes regarding the AC amplifier. You are right. Me, well, nevermind!
In looking at your page 1 of the wiring diagram, the MG CLT relay contact output goes to both the A/C clutch and to your fan #3 relay. So now I'm not sure what your terminals 2 & 3 are used for in your dual pressure switch. But, the fact that your fans turn on when you jumper the dual pressure switch wiring harness terminals 1 & 4 is an indication to me that your MG CLT relay is working fine. And you should be getting power to the A/C compressor to activate the clutch as well. The ECU is expecting the A/C compressor to be rotating, but because it is not, you are getting the A/C light to flash.
So here is my next suggestion. Put everything back together at the dual pressure switch. Remove the wiring harness at the A/C compressor. On the wiring harness, put a volt meter between the terminal on the wiring harness that has the black wire with white stripe (labeled B-W in your wiring diagram) and a good ground. Start the engine and make sure the A/C system is turned on. Are you reading battery voltage? If so, the A/C compressor is getting a signal to engage the clutch, but either it is no longer capable of engaging the clutch, or the clutch friction material is gone and is slipping badly.
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