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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-19-2010, 08:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Only knowlegeable enthusiasts read...

I don't really care to drive my 140k mile Camry forever, just for another two years. I have read many threads on "blue smoke on start-up," the problem I have. It seems, from what I have already read, to be leaking seals. I don't mind putting oil into it and the smoke doesn't bother me. I only have one concern: Will this lead to permanent engine damage? If so, in how long, because I could take it to my mechanic, as I don't have the time nor detailed knowledge. If not, are there any CHEAP treatments other than just topping off the oil? Please advise. -Mason
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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2 questions:

How often do you change the oil and is it stick shift?
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It won't hurt the engine at all, the worst thing it will do is foul the spark plugs a bit sooner. Using a high detergent motor oil might wash the contaminants from the seals and reduce the problem, but not always. There are add-in treatments that are supposed to "recondition" valve seals but I have never tried them and don't know if any of them work.

Some may do more harm than good, replace them or live with it. If you can find a mechanic that can replace the seals without removing the cylinder head, it may be worth the cost.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You could put in some Auto-RX and follow their instructions on the cleaning/rinsing phases and see if it can clear it up. Keep in mind that it won't fix something that's mechanically worn but if it can clean the seals up...it might make it last a little longer.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Stick or Auto, don't lug it about, let it Rev up! Change the OIL every 1800 miles and see what happens!
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Use castrol high mileage 10w40 conventional. It will slow down if youve been runnning non high mileage oil. If you live in missiouri, the hotter climate makes up for the higher weight oil.

These guys telling you to run auto rx have no idea that it will make it worse, if that stuff even cleans anything.

Last ditch effort would be lucas oil treatment and the engine restore stuff, if the high mileage 10w40 doesnt help after 3-4 oil changes.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Seafoam the whole car and like carsrus said, use Lucas Oil Treatment or the Engine restorer. I had a smoke problem before with a 90' Geo Prizm, I poured in a half bottle of Smoke b Gone. It works.
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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had such problem with a puff of blue smoke at cold start, however after i started changin oil myself, using good quality oil filters and switched to fully synthetic oils (Valvoline Synpower, Mobil1 Fully Synthetic, Penzoil Platinum) for a year the issue went away. now running good dino (either Valvoline or Castrol GTX) oils with OEM/Denso filters (can get them cheap online).
in Winter will switch back to Mobil1 Full Synthetic (need longer OCI when it is snowing here, i work on cars outside).

i did sea foam once (all 3 points of entry) at ~68k miles which helped somewhat to clean up engine.

now doing auto-rx treatment (finishing cleaning cycle in 200miles) at ~74k miles. not sure about auto-rx, but sea foam is great for dissolving carbon deposits. my car was running poorly before sea foaming and after it gained some more strength.
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Oil in the exhaust can make you fail emmisions too. In general that extra oil will result in the timing being retarded as it can cause detontation. Oil in the CAT will lead to premature failure too.

I'm not a huge fan of dumping a bunch stuff in the engine. Short cycle the oil changes to 1500 - 1800 miles and get the oil circulating as I said above. Rev it up a tad and reduce its work load.
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I have done the Auto RX treatment in my camrys, and it is a slow process... slower than watching grass grow. Both camry's done in 2005.

My sister's used corolla had a lot of varnish and sludge on valve cover Auto RX'd in 2007. Using Rotella 10W30 year round.

My 4 cyl camry cleaned up very well during rinse cycle with 15W40 and 10W30 Rotella diesel engine oil... over the course of approx 30,000km.

Afterwards I used Esso Extra (PAO Synthetic base) 0W40 and 0W30 exclusively until fall of 2008 when the price went up to 36 CDN / gal from 19CDN. Using Valvoline Blue now 23 CDN / gal.
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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75w90 gear oil stopped that oil leak in my nissan
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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75w90 gear oil stopped that oil leak in my nissan


Picked up an $175, 87 Sentra 5spd, 175tho miles, smoked. Changed the oil often and never lugged it. Sold it for $600 w/350,000miles on it! Never burned a drop! Valvoline and STP, 2000 mile OCI
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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75w90 gear oil is equivalent to a 10W50 oil.
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My valve guide seals leak, so I have the same problem. Its been doing it for years so thats why I figure none of the quick fix products work for me. The seals are so dried or w/e haha I just live with it and put lots of oil in the good ol baby. To fix the seals would be a big job and cost alot if you had someone else do it.

I suggest dealing with it and checking the oil level every week atleast, just to be safe
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the input, guys!
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