Failed to remove passenger side CV axle - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

djb2 · 07-25-2010, 03:01 AM

After trying several times, I've failed to remove the passenger side CV axle on a 1993 with A140.

The final attempt was using a slide hammer and fitting from Auto Zone's tool loaner program. It seemed to be the right tool and applied quite a bit of force to the inner shaft, but didn't break the intermediate bearing free.

Just *after* leaving town, I had the idea of using a bearing separator. Does anyone think this would work between the engine mount and inner CV joint housing?

http://www.harborfreight.com/large-b...ator-3979.html

rusty9 · 07-25-2010, 07:56 AM

assuming youve removed the retaining ring, just keep soaking it with penetrating oil. and giving it a few whacks should break it loose after a while.

djb2 · 07-25-2010, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty9

assuming youve removed the retaining ring, just keep soaking it with penetrating oil. and giving it a few whacks should break it loose after a while.

I'm very practiced in removing the retaining ring, and in finding the little rubber piece that doesn't stay put on the end of the bearing retainer bolt.

It was soaking in PB Blaster. I don't have any Kano Kroil there, or it would have gotten that.

ycartf · 07-25-2010, 12:57 PM

Assuming you are only going to use the removed axle as the core when you get your new one, heat that carrier housing up with a torch for a few minutes (mine was starting to make a sound of grease cooking) and then put the slide hammer with tulip attachment to it (and in as straight of a line as you can) like I did here and you should be successful at it. Hope this helps.

Tracy

peshwa · 07-25-2010, 01:04 PM

Thanks a ton ycartf for your nice DIY for passenger side...Gave you a thanks for chiming in...I had almost forgotten about it... :-)

djb2 · 07-25-2010, 02:15 PM

I did heat up the motor mount a little, but only a little. I wanted someone there while using a torch under the car, and they had to leave after just a few minutes. That also meant that the mount had cooled down by the time I got the slide hammer in place.

I also didn't want to commit to burning up the bearing without a back-up car to get to a boneyard for a replacement mount.

ycartf · 07-25-2010, 05:59 PM

I will emphasize you want to hit the carrier mainly, and not the bearing. I know they are touching, but if you hit the carrier - only - with a torch until it makes a sizzling sound (like it is starting to heat up the bearing grease or the penetrant you sprayed in there) THAT is when you want to strike. That way the carrier is the hottest (and most likely to be expanded/stretched) while the bearing is not yet heated up as much. With enough heat, my money is on it coming out. The one I did had been underwater up to the console a few years ago when my sister owned it, so it had a lot of corrosion (although we do live in an area with no salt on the roads or sea air). I was using a 5 lb slide hammer too by the way, so if you are using the 2 lb cousin of it, you are going to have to work harder. And I don't think you're going to really harm that assembly by doing this, as long as you don't throw cold water to it and rapidly cool it, all should still be roadworthy. Best of luck.

Tracy

jtex2717 · 07-26-2010, 08:42 AM

Step 1. Remove axle with engine mount assembly - Possible....a bitch but possible.

Step 2. Get a huge torch

Step 3. Place engine mount in between a vice or blocks (I used cinder blocks)

Step 4. After the mount is damn near glowing.....Strike the axle with a huge hammer (I used a sledge)

Step 5. If doesnt work....repeat step 4

Step 6. Use some sand paper to clean up the inside of the mount once bearing is removed / then grease with synthetic grease for easy installation and removal

Step 7. Test fit new axle bearing for ease of install.

Step 8. Install the mount back onto the axle / then reinstall into car

Step 9. Grab a beer and say (F#@K) really loud...

I did this and it worked well......I have even had to do this on other vehicles.....But it is a lot easier than trying to remove a seized axle bearing while still on the car.

djb2 · 07-26-2010, 11:31 AM

I wish I had my tools there for that!

The car is car is far away from most of my tools and friends, and I can't leave it disabled. Otherwise it would see the hot torch, perhaps even the cut-off wheel and the 20 ton press. My big upgrade last month was getting an electric impact wrench to speed removing the wheel and running the trunk-style screw jack. (That latter also means that the car is also on the very lowest jack stand setting.)

ycartf · 07-26-2010, 11:50 AM

Please do not work on your car without adequate strength and stability jack stands. Just to make that clear. I like to try and rock the car after I set the stands (and I am close to 300lb). I have been to someone who got squished like a bug using just a scissor jack before - not pretty.

Tracy

73sport · 07-26-2010, 05:58 PM

Yeppers, a classmate of mine was killed by his car. . . no axle is worth your life. Job either. . .

Get the right tools. . .

Anyway, hit the search button, I think the torch wins in the end on the "bad ones", but Steps 4 & 9 are vital.

EDIT: just don;t install the new bearing into the hot bearing mount, it will soon be stuck and trash the seal and grease.

73sport · 07-26-2010, 08:12 PM

More reading material and pix too!

DIY with imput from many. . .
this is a "how to" on replacing the passenger's side CV boots (warning- many photos)

***LynchburgCSI*** · 07-26-2010, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73sport

Yeppers, a classmate of mine was killed by his car. . . no axle is worth your life. Job either. . .

Get the right tools. . .

Not reading the whole thread but, truer words have never been spoken. My grandfather lost all sensation in his right hand changing an starter motor on a car. Killed ALL the nerves in his hand because he didn't have the right stuff to do the job... gloves.

jtex2717 · 07-27-2010, 10:24 PM

Please DO NOT ATTEMPT WITHOUT PROPER TOOLS......this in hindsight is a big job.....and it takes time, finesse, and the proper stuff......mainly the right beer.....but seriously if you dont have the ability to perform the repair then send it to a shop.....

djb2 · 07-27-2010, 10:54 PM

How did it get to this? I clearly said "jack standg" in my post. And I usually put the loosened wheel under the car as a back-up, along with leaving the lifting jack in place or under some other part.

No one commented on trying the bearing separator.

I had read all of the threads. The one in the sticky only covers replacing the outer part of the joint, which only is useful if you are replacing just the boots and not the hard parts. My problem is a groove in the trunnion pot (the outer part of the inner joint), so the whole CV axle needs to be replaced.