Block resurfacing question - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

sousame · 07-26-2010, 02:24 PM

I have a 99 camry 4 cyl. redoing the head gasket dont want to pull the block. what should i do to prep the block surface?

RichieRichJP · 07-26-2010, 03:18 PM

Explain how you're going to resurface it when you don't even know how to clean it...

Rall28 · 07-26-2010, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sousame

I have a 99 camry 4 cyl. redoing the head gasket dont want to pull the block. what should i do to prep the block surface?

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I think that Richie covered it, all you can do is clean the block deck surface.

The big question is....Why are you replacing the head gasket?????

If it is because it was leaking....Then you have to make sure the deck surface is flat & true. (This involves checking it with a machinist straight edge & some knowlege of how to use it)

If no leaking gasket...then just get it cleaned up & hopefully your good to go!
(The head is another matter....I would have it checked no matter why you pulled it off!!! Heads can warp just from removal, let alone other problems...so just get it checked)

To clean the deck surface...carefully scrape off all gasket & carbon with a flat tool WITHOUT damaging the block surface. (NO scratches!)
Then clean the surface with a solvent. I like the "brake cleaner" stuff,,,dries fast & no residue.

**** Try to make sure nothing drops inside the open engine!****

That's about it. Visualy check for any deck problems, make sure nothing is still stuck to the deck surface and it is clean & dry from any oil or other substance.....

...NOW...if you did have a warped or damaged block deck...then it's pull time & off to the machine shop to see if they can save it on the milling machine!

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73sport · 07-26-2010, 03:56 PM

- shop vac
- 1" wide new wood chisel
* suck up the chunks

- laqcure thinner and rags
* wipe it all down

this will take 95% of the gasket and chunks off the iron block.

Don't forget to clean the head bolt holes. Get a can or 4 of compressed air and some gun barrel cleaning brushes in the 45 cal range. Poor in the laqcure thinner and twist in the gun barrel cleaner (pipe cleaner). Soak out most of the solvent with a rag a blow the rest out.

Oil the holes and block. ATF works great for cleaning as its very high in detergent.

Now the 5% and checking for cracks and warpage. . . .

Rall28 · 07-26-2010, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73sport

Oil the holes and block. ATF works great for cleaning as its very high in detergent.
. . .

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Ummm... I could be wrong on this....but I'm pretty sure no oil on the deck ...is best for your new head gasket!

But...73Sport, I could be wrong!

(It's happened before !!!

)

Rally out!

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sousame · 07-26-2010, 04:11 PM

Ya im with rally but could also be wrong... but should'nt the deck be completelly clean? oil the head bolt holes for sure but beyond that, would need a good explanation as to why.

thanks though!

95PimpingCamry · 07-26-2010, 04:12 PM

I think 73sport meant oil the holes in the block for the head bolts, not the deck surface. From what I have heard, if you don't oil the bolt holes the friction between threads can cause you to get a higher torque reading that what the bolts are actually at. This of course would cause a head gasket leak. If you oil the bolt holes then the head bolts will have no problem going in and the torque reading should be spot on.

Edit: I should inform you that I have never installed a head on an engine. This is simply what I have heard a few places. Ask an expert before making any final decisions.

Rall28 · 07-26-2010, 04:20 PM

...

And since we are on the subject of oil....

"Oil the holes and block."

Make up your own mind, about oiling bolts that are torqued to spec...

While there are different opinions about the subject....
But...MOST swear that torque specs always call for DRY threads...

....UNLESS the manual specifically says otherwise!!!!...

There is no arguement that oil on the threads... reduces felt torque so
even with a torque wrench, you will be over torqueing anywhere from 40% to 60% !!!!!

(Thats OK if the manual takes that into account!...if not...watch out!)

Any hoo...thats my two cents for today!!!

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Rall28 · 07-26-2010, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sousame

Ya im with rally but could also be wrong... but should'nt the deck be completelly clean? oil the head bolt holes for sure but beyond that, would need a good explanation as to why.

thanks though!

....

I've always used a DRY deck for assembly ...(BUT...never worked on a Toyota before...so...)

I use a dry deck because head gasket makers coat their gaskets with all kinds of neat magic compounds that are meant to keep it from leaking...

If they wanted it on fresh oil...they certainly would say in their instructions..but as I recall...it always was clean & dry!

But, who knows maybe Toy's are special!

And see my other post for how I feel about oiling critical bolts...not that I'm anal about drying out the holes or whatever...but I certainly wouldn't oil them without the factory manual saying so.

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Rall28 · 07-26-2010, 04:43 PM

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Sousame.... One more quick post & I'll bow out!

Check the factory manual before you listen to me!!!!

A quick google shows some swearing that Toyota & Honda,... all call for oiled head bolts..... so CHECK!!!!

And someone said something... about those one-use "torque" head bolts being used in some Toy engines...???

The kind that have to be replaced every rebuild or you can't get the correct torque or something...(I've never had to deal with those...so look it up!)

Anyway...sorry if I put you off on the wrong track! But you need to check for yourself, cause it could be either way....

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73sport · 07-26-2010, 05:17 PM

Specifically the OP asked how to clean the deck. That's some good options for those of us at home on cleaning the deck.
- Those of us at home, seldom rebuild an engine in a day so leaving oil on the deck keeps rust at away. Letting it rust will lead to a failure.
- Clean it with lacqure thinner before install.
- Filling a bolt hole (not having vent) WILL screw up the torque as it becomes a hydraulic piston. The flip side is going dry will likely lead to the wrong torque being the final yield. The result is failure.
- Not taking the time to clean, oil and test every bolt hole so you know it threads to depth without binding will also lead to failure. Make sure every hole is clean and has light machine oil applied.

- follow the manufacture recomendations!
- Also, don't forget to lower the coolant level so it doesn't wick up when installing the head (if you didn't drain it already. . .)