3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Camry 5SFE 'How To' Replace the Timing Belt, Water Pump & Seals
After doing tons of timing belt replacements, I decided to created my own 'How To' website showing what's involved in replacing the timing belt on the 4 cylinder 5SFE Engine along with the water pump and oil seals. The 5SFE is a rock solid motor and I love working on it. Thinking about doing one on the 1MZFE. Lot of pictures. Enjoy.
__________________ 1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
Thanks. Was wonder if I should do one the the 1MZFE? Not two much different operationally than the 5SFE. Only need to take out and compress the Belt Tensioner ... sometimes the Camshaft Sprockets move during installation. On the other hand, the V8 UZFE series engines is very labor intensive but what a great Toyota engine!
Last edited by hardlymoving; 07-31-2010 at 09:25 AM.
Thanks. Was wonder if I should do one the the 1MZFE? Not two much different operationally than the 5SFE. Only need to take out and compress the Belt Tensioner ... sometimes the Camshaft Sprockets move during installation. On the other hand, the V8 UZFE series engines is very labor intensive but what a great Toyota engine!
Check out the DIY by Mark780 here for the 6cyl, it was very helpful when I did my timing belt:
The DIY by MARK780 on the 1MZFE is very good. Just a few point I'd like to mention:
1. When the Crankshaft is positioned at TDC, there will be (a) nominal valve spring tension whereby the camshaft should not jump after belt removal (b) enough slack on the right side of the timing belt allowing un-tensioned installation of the new belt.
2. Moving the camshaft clockwise by one tooth during belt installation and then back after installation will ease the entire belt installation process.
3. If concerned about belt/camshaft alignment, apply paint marks on the old belt and transfer those marks with the new aftermarket belt.
4. Crankshaft Pulleys that won't slip off may be due to the previous mechanic that did a belt replacement and allowed coolant to get on the shaft thereby causing rust buildup. Always apply grease to the shaft before Pulley installation.
5. On the MZFE, I prefer installing the belt tensioner pulley AFTER the belt is on the engine. I keep the belt from slipping off by using plastic Alligator Clips and holding the belt on the Crankshaft with a large Socket Wrench Socket. I've found putting on the belt with the tension pulley already on to be a real hassle ... especially when I don't have a extra pair of hands to prevent the belt from slipping off when trying to slip the belt over the tensioner pulley.
6. A Camshaft Pulley Holder Tool can be had for under $20 at HarborFreight and will ease the removal of the Camshaft bolt.
7. Mixing Red/Orange coolant with Green is a real no no. Somehow the coolants react with each other causing coolant sludge...even with a complete flush before changing to a different color. If you must change, keep an eye on the red coolant turning brown. When this happens, keep diluting the residual green stuff by doing radiator drain and fills. BTW - Red/Orange is the way to go. They are silicate and borate free and last a long time.
The Following User Says Thank You to hardlymoving For This Useful Post:
great thread guys...I have subscribed to it. When I buy a V6 5-speed camry/solara I am gonna do this myself :smile:
__________________ 1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
The V6 Camry 5 speed manual is a great car! A wolf in sheep's clothing IMO. Helped two friends buy it. Very pleased and free of worry after I did a tune up tune up, TB and strut replacement.
The DZ63 post on performing a timing belt assembly was excellent. Couldn't believe the amount of oil that had leaked out from all the seals!
I don't know why he wanted to remove the alternator. I find no need to remove it from the pivot bolt.
The area I differ with DZ63 is on the camshaft seal removal. If you jam or work a thin tip screw driver between the inner seal and the camshaft, gently angle the tip outward and the seal will start to come out. Once the outer edges of the seal is exposed, move the screw driver to the outer edge and it will pry off.
I like the method he used for seating the new seal. I first placed the camshaft sprocket on a partial seated seal, then torqued the bolt on the camshaft. I could feel the seal slip in from the pressure. It only pushes the seal in around half way. Never thought of using the old seal with the camshaft sprocket as a press to push in the remainder of of the exposed seal. Good idea. I'll do it next time.
No need to buy or build a special tool to hold the Crankshaft Pulley. Never, ever had a problem with the breaker bar / engine blip technique. Won't work on a Honda Civic since the engine rotates counter-clockwise.
The cheapest source for getting parts of different variety and prices has been rockauto.com. I get almost everything from them. Ebay sometimes has some good deals as well as advanceauto.
Last edited by hardlymoving; 07-31-2010 at 08:42 PM.
No need to buy or build a special tool to hold the Crankshaft Pulley. Never, ever had a problem with the breaker bar / engine blip technique. Won't work on a Honda Civic since the engine rotates counter-clockwise.
The Club isn't to loosen to crankshaft bolt. The starter blip method works, and is the easiest.
The Club is to hold the crankshaft while the bolt is tightened.
The engine will start to turn over at about 80 ft/lbs and the specs call for 130 ft/lbs so you need something to hold the crankshaft while you torque the bolt to specs.
It turns out that if you torque the bolt until the engine starts to turn, or tighten it with a impact wrench to whatever it will tighten the nut to, it will over time, tighten up some by itself.
Many people's impact wrench won't loosen the crankshaft bolt. Too whimpy. My electric Makita wouldn't do it, many others wouldn't either. The Starter Blip Method gets the crankshaft bolt loosened easily, but if your impact wrench wouldn't loosen the bolt, then it makes sense that it wouldn't tighten the bolt to specs either. Even it you have the "Earthquake/Thunderbolt" model impact wrench, you still have to get a torque wrench on the nut to torque it to final specs.
Rather than hope it will tighten, the Club makes sure that the bolt is tightened to specs. Besides you gotta love a guy that has 3" diameter bar stock laying around, and then cuts off a slug 1 1/2" and machines it to fit the crankshaft pulley. Just so he can be sure that the bolt is tightened up to specs. That's why I refer to him as the "King Of Clubs".
He inspired me, and others to fabricate our own versions. But I think everybody will agree that DZ63's is the best looking of the bunch. But I think mine is a close second.
He inspired me, and others to fabricate our own versions. But I think everybody will agree that DZ63's is the best looking of the bunch. But I think mine is a close second.
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I'm too embarrassed to post a pic of mine, it's made of solid oak. But hey it works. I won't use it next time, the bolt most definitely does tighten as you drive.
I bought a $40 electric impact driver from HarborFreight a few years back and use it mostly for removing wheel lug nuts. I use it as well when tightening the crank pulley bolt and tested it's torque on a lug nut with a torque wrench. The wrench indicated over 120 lbs. The funny thing is that whatever I torqued on a few years back on the crank pulley bolt I can't torque off with the same driver ... therefore substantiating your belief that the crank bolt tightens over time. I really don't understand how that can happen since the engine rotation is clockwise. If you're really worried about anything coming loose, apply locktite. I use it on Honda idler pulley bolts since the bolts are shallow and it's easy to strip the aluminum block threads.
For tightening nuts and bolts that need high torque and don't have an electric or air tool power source, I use a mechanical impact driver. Hit hard enough, it generates plenty of torque when you need it for off site jobs. Here's a pic:
The funny thing is that whatever I torqued on a few years back on the crank pulley bolt I can't torque off with the same driver ... therefore substantiating your belief that the crank bolt tightens over time. I really don't understand how that can happen since the engine rotation is clockwise.
I've tried to work out the mechanics of how this could happen, can't do it. I'm sure it does happen though, I tested this by putting the bolt on about as tight as I could before the engine turns, which is not much at all the engine rotates pretty easily. Drove for a few days, the bolt was beyond my torque wrench (150 foot-pounds). I maybe got a little tick out of the bolt that was it. Anymore torque and I would have sheared the two bolts holding my genuine oak club onto the pulley.
BTW - I've got a 94 Camry 1MZFE timing belt replacement job coming up. Customer's complaining about noise coming from his engine during warm up .... probably worn idler pulley bearings. Time to get out the digital camera.
There was one exception where I had to fix a friend of mine's 4-Runner with a loose Crank/Harmonic Balancer (HB) Bolt. As the bolt loosened, the HB moved outward to the point where it slipped past the Crankshaft Key and the HB stopped moving while the crank will spinning. He thought he needed a new battery since the alternator belt wasn't turning anymore.
I used a Univeral Pulley Holder Tool that contained 4 pair of different size pins. I found the correct size pin for the HB and held it in place while applying torque to the HB Bolt with a breaker bar.
It turned out that the last shop that replaced the timing belt didn't tighten the HB bolt enough to prevent it from loosening up. His plugs were all loose as well ... less than 10 pounds I'd say. He was really PO'd.
Before he contacted me about his problem, a local STS Firestone shop quoted him over $200 to tighten the bolt. They said they'd have to remove the radiator to get to the bolt!
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acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
But hey it works. I won't use it next time, the bolt most definitely does tighten as you drive.
I'm sure it does happen though, I tested this by putting the bolt on about as tight as I could before the engine turns, which is not much at all the engine rotates pretty easily. Drove for a few days, the bolt was beyond my torque wrench (150 foot-pounds). I maybe got a little tick out of the bolt that was it. Anymore torque and I would have sheared the two bolts holding my genuine oak club onto the pulley.
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