3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Issues with my 99 camry, already tried looking it up
Alright well I went to FAQ first, and I couldnt find the answers I was really looking for. I havent searched the forum yet, cause I havent had time, but I got major problems with my camry it seems. Its a 99 4cyl auto. The passangers rear seat belt does not retract/work. It latches but it does not work as a seat belt, my dad tried to figure it out once but never got around to it. Also the same seats, window does not seem to want to go up. What I gathered from the FAQ was that it could be a switch issue, but I can rule that out I think because it doesnt want to go up whether I use the drivers switch or that seat's switch. I dont know if it is the motor or what considering the DIY guides kinda were just like this is how you replace it.
Also I have some 225/50/R17s on the car right now, will the car fit 245/40/17 without rubbing, cause I can get some free tires if so. Thanks for the help guys, it is greatly appreciated
You can probably pull the power plug from the window motor and apply 12V directly to it to test it's function. If it works, I'm gonna guess the wiring harness or switch/relay.
Best thing to do is just replace the seat belt. You can find used ones on www.car-part.com in yer color...
What kinda rims do you have? What's the offset?
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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You can probably pull the power plug from the window motor and apply 12V directly to it to test it's function. If it works, I'm gonna guess the wiring harness or switch/relay.
Best thing to do is just replace the seat belt. You can find used ones on www.car-part.com in yer color...
What kinda rims do you have? What's the offset?
as far as rims go, I honestly have no idea what exactly they are, they were free rims, but the 225/50 fits in there fine and can full lock no problem, I think if it were 245/50 it would be a different story, yet since the new tires will go down 10mm in the sidewall I think I shall be all set.
just looked up one of them I know is DR21 and its offset is 40mm. As for the other rims I would assume the same since I got them from a friend who used them as winter wheels but I will find out tomorrow. The other rims are kazera kz-v's and apparently they are .5 inches wider with a 45 offset so now I really think Im all set. They are lighter though so they will be swapping to the front, for better mpgs haha
Last edited by TheGeneralCS; 08-03-2010 at 08:02 AM.
i can chime in on the seat belt issue. yeah, just replace it. i had the same problem with one of mine. i took it apart and rebuilt it, but some of the parts were worn and the spring re-popped after a week. local junk yards sell the seat belt assembly for just under $20.
i can chime in on the seat belt issue. yeah, just replace it. i had the same problem with one of mine. i took it apart and rebuilt it, but some of the parts were worn and the spring re-popped after a week. local junk yards sell the seat belt assembly for just under $20.
thanks for the advice once I get the car back on the road I will head to the local yard, last time I was there they have my gen camry, could I also get one out of a gen3?
Sontakke Saheb
The whole car was warrantied only for 5 years/60K miles by yota in those days. That includes all the components of the Drivertrain/engine.
The car as such used to have only 3 years/36k miles warranty.
__________________ 1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
You have a DMM (digital multi meter) you can measure opens, shorts, and voltage with?
Step one is to measure the battery voltage. While doing this, hit the switch, does the voltage drop at all? If no, there is no load. Either bad connection as in no ground, no +12V or the motor burned out. The battery voltage tanks (lights dim) than the window has a mechanical fault. This takes you directly to door panel removal for inspection.
Was that door replaced, was the car ever wrecked, does the door have a matching VIN tag like inside the trunk, hood, doors, fenders? Does the door lock work?
EDIT: you might try opening the door to other intermediate positions and trying the button. Maybe the routing path though the hinge area is damaged and you can obtain a momentary connection to close the window????
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
You have a DMM (digital multi meter) you can measure opens, shorts, and voltage with?
Step one is to measure the battery voltage. While doing this, hit the switch, does the voltage drop at all? If no, there is no load. Either bad connection as in no ground, no +12V or the motor burned out. The battery voltage tanks (lights dim) than the window has a mechanical fault. This takes you directly to door panel removal for inspection.
Was that door replaced, was the car ever wrecked, does the door have a matching VIN tag like inside the trunk, hood, doors, fenders? Does the door lock work?
EDIT: you might try opening the door to other intermediate positions and trying the button. Maybe the routing path though the hinge area is damaged and you can obtain a momentary connection to close the window????
good ideas, any one got an idea if the tires will fit givin the specs?
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acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
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