3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Earlier today I was coasting down a mountain, going about 50 mph, when the tachometer started rapidly dropping up and down. It continued to coast for a minute or so until the engine light came on and car died completely. I pulled off of the road and let the car cool down for about 15 minutes. It started up and ran fine for a few minutes, but the tach soon started jerking up and down. It ran steadily as long as I kept my foot on the accelerator, so I continued driving this way into the next town to look for an OBDII scanner . . . but I didn't find one. So I made a (stupid) attempt to continue to the next town, but only made it a few miles before the engine speed became really erratic and the car died again . . .
Now it doesn't start at all. The starter will crank the flywheel all day, but the engine won't run. I had it towed and was able to find a code reader - it's showing a problem with the crankshaft position sensor. I'm going to throw in a new sensor tomorrow . . . Does this sound like the source of all of my problems? I would really appreciate any suggestions!
Well I've replaced the crankshaft sensor. Now the engine runs fine, but only until it reaches operating temperature. Then it just cuts off, and won't start again until it cools down.
Anybody have a clue about what could be causing this?
Engine running problems, hard to start, and with the erratic tachometer, 9 times out of 10, your igniter is failing.
See if you can get your hands on a used (salvage) igniter to try to see if the problem goes away, before spending lots of $'s on a new one just to see if you guessed right. But, based on the symptoms you wrote, that is the first place I would look.
Well I've replaced the crankshaft sensor. Now the engine runs fine, but only until it reaches operating temperature. Then it just cuts off, and won't start again until it cools down.
Anybody have a clue about what could be causing this?
ECT sensor in 4cyl camry 5s-fe will cause starting problem, and idling problem, especially if it is thermo related condition like you described.
Yes, this is true about the ECT sensor. But the symptom description also included an erratic tachometer when the engine problems were present. The ECT sensor will not cause a tachometer to become erratic. The igniter will, as the igniter feeds the tachometer with engine speed data. And, the igniter can also cause the exact same engine running symptoms described, and be temperature affected (it is a larger, transistorized relay).
Yes, this is true about the ECT sensor. But the symptom description also included an erratic tachometer when the engine problems were present. The ECT sensor will not cause a tachometer to become erratic. The igniter will, as the igniter feeds the tachometer with engine speed data. And, the igniter can also cause the exact same engine running symptoms described, and be temperature affected (it is a larger, transistorized relay).
OK, It looks like the igniter is mounted on the distributor (according to NAPA). I'm going to try installing a different (used) igniter and see if that remedies the issue. The distributor inner seal is leaking oil, so it seems possible that oil is causing problems with the igniter.
By the way, does anyone know if a failing igniter would give a trouble code? The engine light is on, but I haven't had a chance to scan it yet.
Is the igniter mounting "in" the distributor, or "on" (just outside) the distributor? Seems to me it must be outside the body of the distributor, right?
My 93 Celica 5S-FE has OBD-I, and for that simple system, an igniter triggers a check engine light, so I am sure an igniter would do the same on an OBD-II system (which I think your 96 has, but not certain). Do you have OBD-II (a scanner connection somewhere under the steering column)? Or do you have OBD-I, meaning you have a DCL (diagnostic link connector) that is Toyota specific under the hood?
If OBD-II, that would be a very important piece of information to have, so you don't throw money at symptoms.
Is the igniter mounting "in" the distributor, or "on" (just outside) the distributor? Seems to me it must be outside the body of the distributor, right?
My 93 Celica 5S-FE has OBD-I, and for that simple system, an igniter triggers a check engine light, so I am sure an igniter would do the same on an OBD-II system (which I think your 96 has, but not certain). Do you have OBD-II (a scanner connection somewhere under the steering column)? Or do you have OBD-I, meaning you have a DCL (diagnostic link connector) that is Toyota specific under the hood?
If OBD-II, that would be a very important piece of information to have, so you don't throw money at symptoms.
It is OBD-II ('96), so the connector is under the steering column. I checked it shortly after the problem began, and the only code it gave was for the crank position sensor. I'm going to rent a scanner and see what the new code is.
The picture you provided from Rockauto is not an igniter. It is the distributor housing assembly. It includes the distributor shaft and the engine speed sensor coil with pick-up gear within the distributor body. This pickup coil may also provide position sensing information also (my 1993 distributor has two separate pickup coils, one for speed and one for position).
The igniter relies on a timing pulse from the ECU to open it's high current relay. The ECU depends upon engine speed, cam timing, engine coolant temperature, oxygen sensors, etc., to determine the optimum timing pulse to send to the igniter. Rockauto doesn't call this module an igniter, but rather an Ignition Control Module. If you look at the Ignition Control Module in Rockauto, this is what I referred to as the igniter, as that is the Toyota name for this part. If you look this part up, you will see it matches the picture of the igniter I posted previously (which has the Toyota label on it calling it an igniter).
agni, That is the distributor itself. The igniter looks like the picture posted by 93celicaconv although some parts places call it an Ignition Control module, I think only dealers call it an igniter. I can't find any good pictures but it should be located some where near the drivers side strut tower.
While you're attempting to diagnose this, I'd be tempted to grab a couple cans of FREEZE SPRAY for cooling suspect components!
FWIW, just because the new part is new, well I hate to say this, but new is not always 100% if you know what I mean. The fact that it changed things means something. The likelyhood of several parts failing at once seems less likely. Any damaged to any of the wires anywhere?
Do you have a hand held multimeter of some kind. The manual shows you can check the resistance of the three pickup coils.
EG1.PDF page 336
Pg 338 shows how. . .
The distributor in the Engine Control System contains 3 pickup coils (G1, G2 and NE).
The G1, G2 signals inform the ECM of the standard crankshaft angle.
The NE signals inform the ECM of the crankshaft angle and the engine speed.
G Pickup Coil (G1 G ()) Cold = 185 ~ 275 hot = 240 ~ 325 ohms
NE Pickup Coil (NE (+) NE ()) = 370 ~ 550, hot = 475 ~ 650 ohms
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
The service manual calls it an igniter. The ECU sends IGT signal (in short) to ignites the spark plugs. At the ignition coil, a wire is tapped into the igniter ..so the igniter can send out IGF signal. The tach relies on IGF signal. So it can be that you have a bad wire or bad igniter. My guess is igniter as the signal is a periodic pulse.
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