3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Paid 600+ bucks at dealer to install all engine mounts... engine still rocks ??
Had the Toyota dealership work on my car and install all engine mount in belief that they would get the job done correct and with mo worries. The car is now done and all 4 engine mounts are brand new and OEM. I went to pick up the Camry and the engine is not rocking and hitting the firewall anymore ( yea it was that bad )... but when I put the car into Reverse you can still feel the engine knock and move... you can see it move with hood open and the mounts are new. Whats going on here?
It bothers me that the dealer would hand the car back over and not see this... so the car is still there now and they are trying to fig out what the issue is. One guys say its prob the transmission engaging rough ?
But I had mine repaired at another shop, then took it to Toyota for an oil change and examination. There were 2 bolts that were missing, so I had to take it back to the guy and have them screw it back down.
As for reverse, Toyota also couldn't figure it out. When I put mine in reverse, I feel heavy vibrations but they didn't say it was from transmission issues or the motor mounts.
But I had mine repaired at another shop, then took it to Toyota for an oil change and examination. There were 2 bolts that were missing, so I had to take it back to the guy and have them screw it back down.
As for reverse, Toyota also couldn't figure it out. When I put mine in reverse, I feel heavy vibrations but they didn't say it was from transmission issues or the motor mounts.
I guess reverse is bad...
Shame. I will have them or just a mechanic check on all the bolts and screws. When I put the car into reverse, the engine still rocks a little.. theres no vibration that I can remember.. just rocking and I feel this small movement of the engine is going to destroy my new engine mounts again. The dealer is studying the car... but something tells me the issuse is with the trans..
oh yea... while I was there they tried to sell me a 2010 camry se v6 lol... man that car was sweet. .
They sure did. They did all of the mounts... but the engine still has some rocking left when you change gears... I just paid allot of money and i'm no stratified with the results they told me to leave the car while they check it out.
I had a 96 LE 4cyl and had over 145k on it. I had the mounts replaced once and never had a problem like you guys are describing. Maybe I just got lucky. Sorry you guys are having or had this trouble.
one way to sovle your engine rocking motion is to fill your mounts.
Grab a jack, put a little bit of pressure under the oil pan with a piece of wood between the oil pan and jack, and when teh motor is supported (say half an inch to an inch raised) you can access the transmission mount, remove it, and use 3M window sealant.
filling the mount makes it stiffer, though sometimes induces extra motor virbation into teh cabin when you are idling.
I do this on all vehicles I encounter. One stiffer mount usually solves the problem.
On the hodnas I generally work on, they have 2 fornt lower torque mounts. I found that filling both made the transmisison go MUCH smoother, and since the engine/tranny still had 3 big soft mounts, the additional idle vibration was only minor
FWIW: and to hopefully ease you mind, it is rubber, it is meant to move some as its job is to isolate engine induced vibration and harmonics keeping them from the cabin.
I'd expect 1/2" of movement either-way and call that normal especially if the idle is high, like a cold startup, it may move more. (??Maybe look at a new car, see how far it moves???)
High idle speed and/or improperly adjust throttle valve to the transmission could create a firm to harsh engagement at idle.
Other things to consider are the exhaust and components that connect to both the engine and the body. Example an exhaust repair that binds the pipe would transmit engine vibrations to the body. A strut mount put in upside down.......
OR - my favorite mistake(s), saggy engine mounts are replaced but the mechanic tightens the mounts while the engine/trans are supported by a jack. But when the jack is removed, the mounts would prefer a different location or settle to a new position, thus the mounts are bound and the car with new mounts, vibrates.
I've loosened mounts, started the engine allowing the mounts to settle (because of engine vibes) and then retighten them and vibration is gone.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Very very good advice guys... its like im a student in class L O L
But what about the issue with when I put my car in R with the hood open you can literally see teh engine move.. and feel it move from inside the car.. I just installed new engine mounts and I don't want this jump to destroy then again.
Very very good advice guys... its like im a student in class L O L
But what about the issue with when I put my car in R with the hood open you can literally see teh engine move.. and feel it move from inside the car.. I just installed new engine mounts and I don't want this jump to destroy then again.
post a vid selecting both drive and rewind at idle and just above idle.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
1. The Dog Bone- Stops the motor from moving forward and backwards from driving torque, when flooring it in drive or reverse. Usually wears on the piece closest to the front of the car, not all the time though.
2. Front Lower Mount- Holds the motor down on the sub frame and stops the motor from moving up. Usually most noticeable in a thud thunking when letting off of the gas at higher speeds. It is hydraulic and rubber. The rubber usually goes, rare occurrence that it leaks, if it does it will be the color of motor oil.
3. Rear Lower mount- Stops the motor from slamming back down from drive torque, and is the only mount stressed in reverse, so if your reverse feels laggy, that’s your mount. Usually, it’s just the bushing you need to buy. If the main bolt through it has worn out the washer or cast mount you will need to buy the washer or the cast mount.
4. Transmission Mount- This mount takes torque in every possible situation, if you are feeling a thud at mostly all speeds mainly gears beyond 1st and usually second, real bad in over drive, that’s your mount.
5. The Engine moving control Rod- This is a shock. Even with perfect mounts your motor will move some, the mounts are only rubber. This piece makes the movement firm, when the motor moves, this shock will bring the motor back down softly.
__________________ It worked fine until I fixed it!
1. The Dog Bone- Stops the motor from moving forward and backwards from driving torque, when flooring it in drive or reverse. Usually wears on the piece closest to the front of the car, not all the time though.
2. Front Lower Mount- Holds the motor down on the sub frame and stops the motor from moving up. Usually most noticeable in a thud thunking when letting off of the gas at higher speeds. It is hydraulic and rubber. The rubber usually goes, rare occurrence that it leaks, if it does it will be the color of motor oil.
3. Rear Lower mount- Stops the motor from slamming back down from drive torque, and is the only mount stressed in reverse, so if your reverse feels laggy, that’s your mount. Usually, it’s just the bushing you need to buy. If the main bolt through it has worn out the washer or cast mount you will need to buy the washer or the cast mount.
4. Transmission Mount- This mount takes torque in every possible situation, if you are feeling a thud at mostly all speeds mainly gears beyond 1st and usually second, real bad in over drive, that’s your mount.
5. The Engine moving control Rod- This is a shock. Even with perfect mounts your motor will move some, the mounts are only rubber. This piece makes the movement firm, when the motor moves, this shock will bring the motor back down softly.
I changed every engine mount . .
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Last edited by TravisAe86; 08-23-2010 at 10:52 AM.
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Paid 600+ bucks at dealer to install all engine mounts... engine still rocks ??
It worked fine until I fixed it! 
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