3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
When I turn the key it just clicks, not grinding or anything. The wire cable thats connected to the negative terminal was hammered in by the last owner...all help is appreciated. Thanks
Have you try jumping the car? Sometime if the battery is weak, only the solenoid would actuate (which is what you're hearing), but the motor won't turn.
Have you try jumping the car? Sometime if the battery is weak, only the solenoid would actuate (which is what you're hearing), but the motor won't turn.
just had my dad jump with his car, after charging for 10 seconds car instantly started with no problems. Unhooked jumper cables, turned car off and it started instantly. Tried again, and clicking started happening again. So I think it safe to say the battery isnt holding a charge? However, all lights work in the car. But when headlights are on and I try to start they do dim...
just had my dad jump with his car, after charging for 10 seconds car instantly started with no problems. Unhooked jumper cables, turned car off and it started instantly. Tried again, and clicking started happening again. So I think it safe to say the battery isnt holding a charge? However, all lights work in the car. But when headlights are on and I try to start they do dim...
maybe your car battery is dying like mine couple days ago, just go to autozone to have them do a free checkup on the battery.
Tried again, and clicking started happening again. So I think it safe to say the battery isnt holding a charge? However, all lights work in the car. But when headlights are on and I try to start they do dim...
Sounds like it's the starter solenoid contacts. If the battery checks out good then that's the next place to look.
Here's some threads discussing the Starter contacts.
There are others, just search for starter solenoid
.
well I had the battery checked and the voltage is perfect so I know its not the battery.
Would it matter if the negative prong on the actual battery is worn a little? Reason being I took the negative battery cable off and it looks like the battery cable and the actual battery are not touching enough. Because when I tighten the negative cable as tight as it can go it still is a little loose. Would that even matter if it wasn't touching enough? I took some pics to show.
now reading though it sounds like the solenoids... Is there a way to test if it is in fact the solenoids before I begin to operate?
Your problem is power delivery...and it sounds to me that's connector contact issue. You should not only check for voltage....you should also check for Cold Cranking Amp (CCA). Sometime the voltage is fine, but if you don't have CCA, your car won't start.
Your issue is connector. Try sand inside contact and sand the battery contact. That type of OEM connector will stretch after being repeatedly tighten.....and eventually will become lose....which is what you have.
Have your friend wiggle the connector while trying to start.....but make sure you test and have enough CCA.
Also check water level inside the battery too. Be very careful of the acid though.
So far, your car starts with external (jumped) power and failed to start by itself. I doubt it's the solenoid contact point or other things.
Your starter motor draws a significant amount of amperage (90A to be exact..that's over 1000 watts of power).....without good contact or enough CCA, it won't start properly. You need to start isolate whether it's the battery CCA issue or contact....my guess is both.
Run to the auto store, have them test CCA...I see the original CCA 950 @32F. Compare against that number. Also buy a new connector and replace the old one anyway....it should not be that lose.
Your problem is power delivery...and it sounds to me that's connector contact issue. You should not only check for voltage....you should also check for Cold Cranking Amp (CCA). Sometime the voltage is fine, but if you don't have CCA, your car won't start.
Your issue is connector. Try sand inside contact and sand the battery contact. That type of OEM connector will stretch after being repeatedly tighten.....and eventually will become lose....which is what you have.
Have your friend wiggle the connector while trying to start.....but make sure you test and have enough CCA.
Also check water level inside the battery too. Be very careful of the acid though.
So far, your car starts with external (jumped) power and failed to start by itself. I doubt it's the solenoid contact point or other things.
Your starter motor draws a significant amount of amperage (90A to be exact..that's over 1000 watts of power).....without good contact or enough CCA, it won't start properly. You need to start isolate whether it's the battery CCA issue or contact....my guess is both.
Run to the auto store, have them test CCA...I see the original CCA 950 @32F. Compare against that number. Also buy a new connector and replace the old one anyway....it should not be that lose.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.