3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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what does it look like under your 1mz-fe oil filler cap ?
hey guys,
im trying to change my oil and when i open the oil filler cap, theres like i dunno what it is. is it dried oil ? its really hard but it can be scraped off. i dunno how else to describe it. heres what it looks like:
This is a filter screen that keeps crap out of the engine. If you scrape anything off it, it will drop into the valve cover, and maybe the engine. The screen is secured to the top of valve cover. The only way to service it, or clean it, it to remove the valve cover and do it off the car so any crud won't fall into the engine. Here's what mine looks like.
Yeah I figured I would see some buildup. I'm gonna do 1500 OCI for a while probably to try and flush it out. Then MAYBE MAAAAAAAAAAAYBE seafoam. But the seafoam would come after like...15000 miles haha
Chris, looks like you mite get a surprise if you pull the cover on that. . . I'm guessing that ones got a tad of build up going on.
FWIW: Mines a J-vin 95 and as best I can tell never had a screen.
D, your's looks like the PCV system you use some attention. You might pull all the plumbing and verfiy its not plugged anywhere.
I completely concur with everything you stated. Chris, I think you might find a bit of buildup under the valve cover... Slight tangeant here, but 73 sport, I'm about to change the PCV valve this week, and I'm thinking of cleaning the plumbing. I was thinking throttle body cleaner, is that safe to use or would you recommend something else?
D, looks like you have a big "chunk" or something on bottom. Maybe it's the angle of the picture?
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
That's the shot I was looking for. When I had mine off, I wanted to clean the screen but the 1MZ-FE 6cyl is the same as yours. Anybody have and idea how to replace the screen or for that matter, clean it ??
That's after about 500 miles. The buildup is from the PCV system and any leftover oil being heated by the gas, which in turn, creates deposits. PCV gas can superheat oil.
If you want to clean it, you remove the valve cover and soak it in a strong solvent. You'd need to remove the rubber spark plug grommets and replace them with new ones unless you've already done it recently.
The deposits will break up, but since the baffle isn't removable, it's hard to get the bigger deposits, but many will fall out from the baffle. Just keep at it. I gently scrubbed the oil baffle with an old toothbrush (not a wire brush).
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1991 Toyota MR2 V6
Ported, rebuilt 3.0L 1MZ
Fully OBDII compliant and California smog legal
Last edited by Jason.MZW20; 08-15-2010 at 04:59 PM.
hey guys, thanks for the replies.
uhh i didn't kno yuu could tell so much just by lookin at the oil buildup lol.
the chunks are probably some loose chunks of oil. cause when i first opened the cover, i saw all that nasty down there and i was like wtf and scraped a little bit to see what it was. i prolly loosened some of it. from what u guys said, im guessin that was a bad idea. so im gonna go out and see if i can take out all the loose chunks.
how can you tell that i might have some problems with the pcv system by the buildup ? also what do you recommend me check first ? check to see if the pcv valve is clean/working then check the hoses to make sure they're not clogged ?
The front bank uses a constant, passive PCV system as you can see by the large hose going to the air cleaner assembly. The rear bank uses a PCV valve to regulate the flow of PCV gas and is more actively involved in the regulation of PCV gas. The PCV valve should be checked every 24k miles and replaced as necessary.
The reason they're different is because of the way the block/heads are designed. The rear bank has PCV pipes while the front bank does not, at least, not in the front head or block. The PCV pipes go all the into the crankcase to vent the vapors.
If you notice, the baffles control the PCV gas in the heads as well. The baffles are designed to keep oil from being ingested by the engine when the PCV gas is being purged. It's normal for some oil to seep past.
Here's the rear bank with its pipes in both the block and head:
The pipes are at the bottom and they're also designed to prevent oil from clogging them.
Here's the front bank:
This doesn't have PCV pipes, but it does have a few smaller areas to siphon PCV gas should it rise.
__________________
1991 Toyota MR2 V6
Ported, rebuilt 3.0L 1MZ
Fully OBDII compliant and California smog legal
The front bank uses a constant, passive PCV system as you can see by the large hose going to the air cleaner assembly. The rear bank uses a PCV valve to regulate the flow of PCV gas and is more actively involved in the regulation of PCV gas. The PCV valve should be checked every 24k miles and replaced as necessary.
The reason they're different is because of the way the block/heads are designed. The rear bank has PCV pipes while the front bank does not, at least, not in the front head or block. The PCV pipes go all the into the crankcase to vent the vapors.
If you notice, the baffles control the PCV gas in the heads as well. The baffles are designed to keep oil from being ingested by the engine when the PCV gas is being purged. It's normal for some oil to seep past.
Here's the rear bank with its pipes in both the block and head:
The pipes are at the bottom and they're also designed to prevent oil from clogging them.
Here's the front bank:
This doesn't have PCV pipes, but it does have a few smaller areas to siphon PCV gas should it rise.
Hey you moved your pictures! I was gonna show someone the MZ guts but they disappeared!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
I've found that dollar per dollar, lacquer thinner cuts old oil the best. No need to remove the rivets but you need to submerge it long enough to break the varnish down (hours). You could haul them to the machine shop and have them wash them AFTERWARDS as the heat may help (well depending on what they use for aluminum.
The point is, you need the passages clean enough to fill it with oil AND clear the PCV so the engines own vacuum can scavenge the fumes.
As for hoses, its time where they could be brittle so if you see cracks, time to replace, but I use the lacquer thinner on them to just NO Soaking. Shove a flexible piece of wire through them from both ends, dump out the chunks, poor the thinner in and rinse a few times. . . Or replace with new if thats an option or needed do to damage.
Oh - if you soak the cover, replace the seals!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Last edited by 73sport; 08-15-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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