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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-15-2010, 03:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA Toyota key won't turn, generic key does

The manufacturers key will not turn in my 2001 Toyota Camry LE (4 cylinder), but when I tried a generic key, the key truns in the switch as normal each and every time. The current Toyota key and an old one I had both would not turn, but a new hardware store made key worked fine. My Dad thinks the old keys have worn down some and is suggesting putting graphite into the ignition. Can graphite hurt the ignition system and is there a mechanism on a Toyota key that stops it from turning if worn? The wheels on the car are straight, so that was not the issue. The key does not have a chip in it. Are there other security features on the Toyota key that would stop it from working while allowing a generic key to work? If there was a problem in the ingition switch I should think the generic key should not work, yes? Is using the backup key the answer?
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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not sure what you mean by generic key? are you saying the copys work, but the originals don't?
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Correct, the copy works but the two originals do not. My brother thinks the tumbler is going,but I wonder if it is not just the key itself.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i had a similar problem. i couldnt unlock my doors with my key and somrtimes had trouble starting it as well...but i got a new key cut at ACE hardware and it works perfectly. idk why...but it does. i dont use the original anymore.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Like your dad suggested, the original keys are worn to the point that they will no longer lift the tumblers inside the ignition lock. Graphite will not likely help. If you have the original key tag, you can go to the local Toyota dealer, and have them cut a new set of keys at a nominal cost. I am surprised that your keys are worn out. My 97 still has the original keys in good shape, and the original Securikey+ fobkey that Gulf States Toyota installed. I use that one everyday.
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Some people use the key to open the doors and also to turn the ignition switch and start the car. Those keys are subject to a lot more wear than using a remote to open the door and then the key to start the car.

I agree your key is worn and that the best advice was to go to Toyota with proof of ownership and have a key made from the VIN number. That key should work fine. I would have a couple of keys made that way.

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Old 08-15-2010, 08:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like my kind of fix. I will do that tomorrow. Thanks.
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I may be guilty of having had my work keys hanging on the key chain. I stopped that practice some time ago. I no longer do this but I am keeping my fingers crossed that I didn't mess up the tumbler.
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Old 08-16-2010, 12:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't put graphite in a car's lock cylinder -- it will gum up the mechanism.

Toyota uses a waterproof grease that doesn't always age well. Cars left outside in hot climates often have hardened grease. Removing, cleaning and re-greasing the lock cylinders might be called for.
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advise. We have definitely had quite a few 90+ days here in Pittsburgh. What does removing, cleaning and re-greasing the lock cylinder usually run $ wise?
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Old 08-16-2010, 12:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You might widen the search but yotas have valet key options and when you find that the key works in the ignition but not the passenger door then you know they key is not 100% correct or its a valet key. Same applies to the trunk. You can unlock, but you can't lock (think turning counter-clockwise to 9 O'clock). The valet option allows you to hand the doorman a key that works the drivers door and ignition, but not the trunk so as to have access to your valuables.

Go to the dealer or a competent lock smith and have them make a key that flawlessly turns the passenger door to Lock/unlock all doors and works both directions in the trunk too.
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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73sport, I will check out all the keys. I had forgotten the security lock for valet service. Guess that says I don't use this feature very often any more. Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'll assume here that the original keys that no longer work in the ignition once worked great when the copies were made, right?

Because if the original keys no longer worked in the ignition because they were worn, and these keys were used to make copies, how would copies made from the original worn keys in a hardware store work? The copies are made from tracing the original key pattern, not from a key code.

I guess that tells us to make copies of the original keys when the originals are new and still work, to avoid problems down the road.
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsun_14 View Post
Thanks for the advise. We have definitely had quite a few 90+ days here in Pittsburgh. What does removing, cleaning and re-greasing the lock cylinder usually run $ wise?
I've seen desert cars where the grease hardened to almost a plastic, but they get many more hot sunny days than Pittsburg.

It takes about 30-40 minutes per lock cylinder, and a few dollars for grease.

It's probably not worth the time and money to pay someone else to do it unless you are already having problems. But if other work is being done in the area (e.g. replacing the exterior door handle), it's worth the few extra minutes to do the lock cylinder.
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsun_14 View Post
73sport, I will check out all the keys. I had forgotten the security lock for valet service. Guess that says I don't use this feature very often any more. Thanks!
also the valet keys do not work in glove box lock. if yours can open/lock the glove box then it's gotta be the master key, just worn out.

I have a suggestion for you as I obsessively always replace all keys every few years for all my cars hehe...

get the blank key off ebay, usually it will be the one with blank transponder (for immobilizer circuit) in it, but it doesn't matter (works for non-immobilizer applications too):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-00...Q5fAccessories
they come from Taiwan. best thing that they actually have Toyota logo on it, not some aftermarket brand logo

that's what i got for my both solaras 2000 (no immobilzier) and 2002 (with immobilizer):

then take the original (or whatever you have) master key and car registration to Toyota dealership and tell them you need new master key cut and hand them the blank blade (ebay) key.
They will cut it for you for FREE, because unless they sell you their own key they cannot charge you for it

It works in Home Depot too

But the difference is that Home Depot will make a COPY of your existing key, while Toyota dealer can cut the NEW one from digital data stored in their system.

If car has immobilizer then tell the dealer not to worry about it as you can do programming yourself

There is immobilizer key programming step by step guide in FSM at least for the gen4 camry (works for solaras too).

Body Electrical:
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Ge...Electrical.pdf
page 121.

There are also instruction on key code erasure and adding a sub-key (valet). Those are all for immobilizer applications.
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Last edited by fenixus; 08-17-2010 at 01:33 PM.
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