20A Dome Fuse blows continuously - 1993 Camry - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

71Corolla · 08-18-2010, 12:58 AM

The 20 amp dome fuse under the hood blows over and over again, as soon as the battery is connected. I traced the shorted wire to a connector behind the instrument cluster, a red wire with 2 gray dots. I pulled the pin out of the connector, no more blown fuse. The wire that is now disconnected continues along behind the center of the dash, then I lose track of where it goes.

I've pulled as many connectors as I can, removed the stereo etc. but the short is still there. The dome light works, the illuminated key ring also works. But when I close the door, the dome light dims to about 50% and stays that way, the red door lights also dim but never go out. So whatever that shorted wire is powering is affecting the system, I assume?

Anyone out there had this problem before? I searched but didn't find anything, this is turning out to be a huge pain my car is completely torn apart.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

paperbanjo · 08-18-2010, 02:06 AM

Is it supposed to be 20?

71Corolla · 08-18-2010, 02:12 AM

Yes, 20 amp fuse. I know there is a short there, a test meter shows nearly zero ohms at the fuse box (the fuse that blows is under the hood).

***fenixus*** · 08-18-2010, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

Yes, 20 amp fuse. I know there is a short there, a test meter shows nearly zero ohms at the fuse box (the fuse that blows is under the hood).

are you saying that you read zero ohms on wire continuity n its both ends (which would be good) or when testing the power wire continuity to ground (which is bad) ?

try testing continuity on both ends of suspected wire section by section (connector terminal to fuse terminal, then the other fuse terminal to the other end of next connector terminal and so on). it should never read more than 1ohm depending on your ohmmeter. when you find the continuity exists, but reads something like 100ohm then it will mean that section you testing is shorted.

also the power wire should never read continuity to ground. you may want to separate wire by keeping connectors unplugged and fuses removed and trying to pinpoint which section is shorted to ground (if that's the case).

I don't know of Electrical Wiring Diagrams for gen3, but at least try looking through '94 camry Wiring Schematics and Body Electrical FSM:
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Ge...ry94wiring.pdf
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen3/be.pdf

generally, check out those links:
http://www.camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen3_Manuals
http://www.**********s.com/camry/

***LynchburgCSI*** · 08-18-2010, 07:47 PM

XLE or what trim? The integration relays are different.

71Corolla · 08-18-2010, 08:11 PM

Sorry I forgot to post, it's an LE. Thanks for the suggestions, I figured out the problem. The amplifier under the seat was shorting out, never thought that could be the culprit. For some reason the unit gets constant power from the dome fuse, not sure why?

To be honest I didn't even know I had the amp under the seat

I never looked. The left front channel has been dead for a few weeks I should have put two and two together. As you can see the thing is totally fried, oddly I never heard anything or smelt anything either, but I did smell it when I popped the cover.

I've been planning to replace the stereo with the same unit as I have in my 2001 Camry I really like it. But now that I see I have the external amp, that means the wiring is different the stereo only has 1 connector (2001 unit has two), so I would have to do some custom wiring. Anyone here attempted this?

Stereo in my 2001 looks like this

***fenixus*** · 08-18-2010, 08:17 PM

ouch! that thing got seriously taken some strong zap! check the harness before replacing anything. there must be an explanation of why it gets a constant power, some relay or switch may be stuck closed ?

71Corolla · 08-18-2010, 08:32 PM

I checked with the service manual, the dome fuse does connect to the external amp.

Yep the thing toasted itself good, it's a piece of crap honestly. Both the head unit and the amp are made my Fujitsu America, not the best quality. I actually found an identical amp at the wreckers, same part number. It came out of a 2 door LE, North American produced like mine. I put the replacement in just to make sure everything was good to go, it works fine. But I'll probably return it gonna put in a proper sound system.

97ToyCar · 08-18-2010, 10:23 PM

I'd give my left nut for that factory combo deck...but I don't think I can use it. I have the plain jane radio/cassette, with no amp and only two plugs. I sure wish I could find one in nice shape that works good...sigh...my tape player has a loud click when it plays a tape.

71Corolla · 08-18-2010, 10:31 PM

I think the two plug scenario is what will work with most of the Toyota decks, the single one I have is is a pain because the outputs go first to the amp, then to the speakers. I'll have to do some hacking, pain in the neck.

Do a Google on part# 86120-0C020 this should be the one in my 2001.

73sport · 08-19-2010, 02:13 PM

Hmm - take this with a grain of salt as I know things change but, my 95 has the premium sound w/an amp under the seat. When installing an after market h/u the amp is bypassed up at the dash.

So you might look at your dash connectors and see if they pipe direct to the speakers. If they do, you bypass at the dash level and problem is solved.

look at crutchfield for harness to install a pioneer deck (or another popular name brand deck). Usually one to format the h/u to a standard and another to format the car to standard.

Nice work solving that one. . .

Oddly, that looks like high voltage struck it. Is that possible? Any welding, lightening?

71Corolla · 08-19-2010, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73sport

Oddly, that looks like high voltage struck it. Is that possible? Any welding, lightening?

No none of those things, the unit just fried itself. Actually I think I may know why, the left front speaker is a bit softer and has some background hiss, so I'm thinking that the deck is pumping a bad signal into the power amp and slowly damaging it. Just a theory, but it seems odd to me that the amp would fry itself so severely. I checked the voltage when the car was running just to be sure, it's normal.

After looking at the connectors, it looks like the only difference between a system with a built in amp and an external amp is, the two connectors that would go into a stand alone deck plug into a harness that goes under the seat. So I bet by unplugging the two connectors from that harness and plugging them directly into a deck like the one I have in my 2001, it would just work straight away. The only thing I wonder is if the newer decks will send a signal to the power antenna (yes I still have a working one).

73sport · 08-19-2010, 05:37 PM

^^
You're good then and that's how mine is. I think it has two connectors now connected to ZIP! but the one you do use has the antenna in it and its part of the adapter harness conversion for your car.

So pick a deck and install! You'll need a filler panel which is cheap, I used a pocket you can put stuff in.

Deck, adapter to deck, adapter to car, filler panel = done! No more seat heater!!

I doubt your speaker did that. More of integrated power amp that shorted or something like that.

71Corolla · 08-21-2010, 06:11 PM

Managed to find the factory stereo I wanted. It's out of a Sienna, not sure if the part# is the same as my 2001, but it looks exactly the same. All I had to do was unplug the two connectors that plug into the harness going under the seat, and plug them right into the new unit. Everything works including the power antenna, nice. The connector that went to the old stereo is now an orphan, same with the connectors under the seat. The new unit also has a 3rd plug which I assume is for a CD changer.

It sounds far superior to the cheapo thing I took out, but of course it's not going to rival a good aftermarket system. But I was not looking for that, just something with a CD player (it plays burned CDs) that sounded decent enough. So for anyone looking to upgrade their system but want to retain a factory look, a nice way to go.

Took some pics, everyone likes pics.

old unit

orphaned connectors under the seat

and in the dash

connectors originally plugged into harness that goes to the amp. Note the two antenna connectors, the new system works fine using only the larger one.

new

and installed, blends in perfectly

***Silent Runner*** · 02-17-2011, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

Managed to find the factory stereo I wanted. It's out of a Sienna, not sure if the part# is the same as my 2001, but it looks exactly the same. All I had to do was unplug the two connectors that plug into the harness going under the seat, and plug them right into the new unit. Everything works including the power antenna, nice. The connector that went to the old stereo is now an orphan, same with the connectors under the seat. The new unit also has a 3rd plug which I assume is for a CD changer.

It sounds far superior to the cheapo thing I took out, but of course it's not going to rival a good aftermarket system. But I was not looking for that, just something with a CD player (it plays burned CDs) that sounded decent enough. So for anyone looking to upgrade their system but want to retain a factory look, a nice way to go.
Yup, thats alot what it looked like, except that it had a 20pin connector plug in the back and had a JBL gold badge on the bottom. It also sounded like crap hooked up to my original amp., which is why I dug up a JBL Premium Sound amp. Its still not stellar, but for my old ears it does a pretty good job.
Took some pics, everyone likes pics.

old unit

orphaned connectors under the seat

and in the dash

connectors originally plugged into harness that goes to the amp. Note the two antenna connectors, the new system works fine using only the larger one.

new

and installed, blends in perfectly