wire harness replacement / where is p/n sticker on harness ?

[fenixus]

hi guys,

i'm prepping to replace the main engine room wire harness on my car and need to confirm I ordered the right part (kind of too late i know) as I took the part number from toyodiy.com for 2002 solara v6 model (82115-06550 no traction control version).

it seems that i will be getting the correct part number, however from year 2001 (which has different headlights) ... now I check toyodiy.com and there is lots of this harness versions for 2001 ... which also included the same part number as my 2002 ... very confusing.

would like to check the harness sticker on my car, but have no idea where to look for it. any ideas where toyota places them ?

[fenixus]

... and assuming that harness is the correct one (maybe 2001 was a transient model with both type of headlights sold) and fits my 2002 just right.

any tips on old harness removal and installation of new one in ? anything I should be careful of ?
anything hard to access in particular ? how much time should I reserve for this task ?

I assume, once I remove the old one out (unplugging and unclipping everything) then I will have a good idea on reinstalling the new one in, right?

thanks for opinions.

[Chris Crash]

Unplug from the ECU then pull through the dash into the engine compartment, then unhook everything there.

Then shove the new one through the dash and plug it into the ECU, then each connector will only reach one thing perfectly. Just remember where they are routed (i.e. if they go under the intake, through the intake, ect.)

[fenixus]

thanks chris. good tip for starters.

i plan on taking LOTS of pictures of old harness routing before i remove that from car, so i can refer to them when i get into trouble with installation of new one in.

when replacing harness, did you get the replacement with a fuse box pre-installed on it or you had to remove wires from old fuse box and insert new ones into it ?

planning to do the removal on Sat morning, then take a break and install new one in afternoon. doable all in 1 day ?

[Chris Crash]

Removal shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes. Plus you don't have to worry about breaking the little tabs!

I never had to touch the fuse boxes... The only wires that I touched went directly from the engine to the ECU, and no where else.

[fenixus]

though i'm unsure if we talking about the same harness ... i will be replacing the on routed around the engine bay and not quite the piece between engine and ECU ? or i'm totally wrong and they are one thing after all ...

i'm going to do this one:


and NOT that one:


or rather they come together when buying a used wire harness (everything under hood) ?

[fenixus]

the one between ecu and engine seems ok on my car, i had to order the outer one as it got cut open and ripped partially by passenger wheel well and ABS area and then someone spliced it (half ass job).

i guess two different things they are (of course interconnected on car).

[Chris Crash]

Ahhh. I see now. They don't ever connect...I don't think.

I think those wires run through the fender, however. No idea on that one.

It looks like a little more work...Might need to remove a few things to get access to some places (i.e. bumper, fender, hopefully not the radiator...)

But also looks like fuse box needs to be disconnected and reconnected. I would pull the whole box off the car so you can figure out how to disconnect/reconnect it in your air conditioned living room first. Makes life easier.

[fenixus]

yeah, the one running through the passenger fender. I think it runs above the fender liner, so no need to unbolt the fender itself i think ... though i might be wrong per firewall entry point as I have only seen routing of aftermarket wiring in that spot, no original thing.

might need to double check the fender harness routing with my other 5s-fe solara to see how it's supposed to go in.

I hope radiator can stay, i think removing fans should be enough to get the access ... if not it will be a looong weekend hehe ...

and right this is the one interconencting all under hood fuse/relay boxes together, so removing wires will be a must hehe (new one comes with no boxes, so no plug & play installation).

I think I will remove it with boxes installed on it as you said and figure it out at home hehe ...

it also seems that bumper can stay in place, i had pretty clear access to all front end wiring from under the car after removing the fender liners (which are one piece with fog light splash shields).

now i keep my fingers crossed for the warehouse ... i hope they sent me the correct harness (correct type for the car and correct one for body and not engine itself) ...

[fenixus]

hey, does anybody have a pic of 1mz-fe wire harness by passenger firewall (diagnostic connector area)?

i wanna see how/if it splits into 2 harnesses (one going to engine and the other one going through the fender).

i believe this is how it's routed on my 5s-fe ... will double check tomorrow.

if i'm lucky i will be getting both under hood harnesses together (so far seems so if i'm reading the used parts seller right).

[Chris Crash]

I'll take a picture tomorrow if I remember!

[ajkalian]

Originally Posted by fenixus

the one between ecu and engine seems ok on my car, i had to order the outer one as it got cut open and ripped partially by passenger wheel well and ABS area and then someone spliced it (half ass job).

i guess two different things they are (of course interconnected on car).

I hope you only have to replace the outer one. If you have to do the inner one, you're gonna have to remove the intake manifold to get to it. Lots of extra work there.

There's a hidden bolt that's very hard to see that holds the harness on the very edge of the passenger side head, bank one, towards the firewall.

There's a connector and wire on that harness that goes to the power steering pump, and it's easy to overlook it. I ripped it right off the connector and had to re-solder it. It's just one wire, maybe two, I can't remember, dangling down from the harness. It's hard to see and hard to get to as well.

Take lots of pics, and post them. It will make a great DIY write-up.


.

[73sport]

A couple of thoughts:
When dealing with any of the ECM, ABS, or "black boxes" they are static sensitive devices and depending on the weather (dry is worse case), you can generate static electricity and damage the "black boxes". For this reason, I would opt for NOT plugging in the connector to those items until last. Well other than confirming you have the right harness.

Same with removal. Unplug from the ECU, ABS ect before yanking stuff from under the hood.

Brain dead today, but body shops have manuals that quote stuff like hours and process to replace things like the wiring harness.

Look in the camry schematic and tell you about tools needed to extract pins from connectors which may be required to fit them through some locations. I'd also get butt load of quality crimp connectors. Use the BARE ONES and cover with your own shrink tubing not the big nasty hard plastic stuff but connectors. Some electrical tape and that split plastic wire wrap may be good idea too. All in various sizes. You'll want some good crimping pliers too Like:
And ZIP TIES! A good hand held lighter for shrink tubing.


And LASTLY, NEVER USE THESE EVER! They destroy the wire and cause latent failure by means of cutting and breaking the wires conductive strands. TWO RED CONNECTORS!!!!! EDIT>> THREE RED CONNECTORS!!!!!




If I need to splice:
Cut to length, strip wires, size the crimp connector (snug is best), size the shrink tube (4X length of splice), install shrink tubing, insert the butt, crimp and pull. It shouldn't fall apart! Slide shrink tubing into place and heat with BBQ lighter. The flexible wand type.

As for the PN tag and labor:
Example: Camrystuff.com on the Gen 3 is a file gen3_part_list.pdf It shows the part cost, part location, tag location with PN (what you need), and the labor hours to replace the part.

I can't find this for yours but maybe a trip to the library would help?

Anyway, be careful with the static thing, cause you CAN KILL STUFF with stray spark and the dryer the weather, less due point, lower humidity increases the the risk!

[fenixus]

ok, thanks for clues. tomorrow i will be getting the package with harness, so will see what i got. first things first hehe

I have the strip and crimp tools, electrical tape, heat shrink wrap/tube and butt connectors (in hard plastic shells around metal tube in 2 sizes). i have also splices in two sizes - most car alarm installers use them on in-cabin harness widely, they work fine over there, i will not use them under the hood though.

those above red splices (3 are installed on 1 wire, not 2 hehe) were done by someone before me, i was actually removing them. but it doesn't matter now, as this wiring will be getting replaced (if i got the correct harness for engine bay and not for engine itself).

ajkalian, i think I will pass on replacing the engine harness even if i get it (i doubt they come in one piece) ... unbolting intake manifold would be a PITA. after all i just need the outer harness. so far haven't figured out yet where it goes through the firewall (so wires from engine bay reach the passenger kick panel area) - i think the entry point is same as my current aftermarket wiring in fender).

[73sport]

Fen, wasn't trying to insinuate that you did that, just that those connectors (three of them) kill wires. . . You're welcome. . . .