3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Drain coolant into a pan or collector by twisting open the spiget located at the drivers side end of the radiator. Open top cap to allow air in from the top (for safe enviromental disposal later)..
Haynes meantions something about a plug in the engine block, i say you dont' need to deal with it as it's hard to read and the flush to take place later will take care of any left over old coolant.
The last sentence is what concerns me. If I do not use that engine block drain, I am concerned that I won't be able to get the exact 50/50 mix required, since some amount of coolant (mixed with water, or even all water) will remain in the system even after I've filled it with water and flushed it.
Also, how much tranny oil is in the oil cooler in the radiator?
Best thing to do is when you undo those tranny lines, plug them so you loss is minimal. After you complete the job, and the enginge is warm, move your trans selector up and down the gears a couple of times slowly. Then check your ATF level.
Don't so worry about being exactly 50/50, it is more of a guide. Trust me, after you drain it, put in 1 gallon of TOYOTa OEM coolant and the rest water, and then water in the overflow tank, but don't overfill the overflow tank, go only to the line. Let the enginge run through without the cap on so you can see that the radiator is full. After its full, let the engine run with the pressure and watch your gauge.
The last sentence is what concerns me. If I do not use that engine block drain, I am concerned that I won't be able to get the exact 50/50 mix required, since some amount of coolant (mixed with water, or even all water) will remain in the system even after I've filled it with water and flushed it.
Also, how much tranny oil is in the oil cooler in the radiator?
Best thing to do is when you undo those tranny lines, plug them so you loss is minimal. After you complete the job, and the enginge is warm, move your trans selector up and down the gears a couple of times slowly. Then check your ATF level.
Thanks Gary. That is what I planned to do. What's the best way to plug them? I don't want to contaminate the fluid. Is there any pressure in the lines at all? In other words, is it going to SPURT out or just pour out via gravity?
Quote:
Don't so worry about being exactly 50/50, it is more of a guide. Trust me, after you drain it, put in 1 gallon of TOYOTa OEM coolant and the rest water, and then water in the overflow tank, but don't overfill the overflow tank, go only to the line. Let the enginge run through without the cap on so you can see that the radiator is full. After its full, let the engine run with the pressure and watch your gauge.
Ok so you're saying I don't have to remove the engine block drain plug, and, the radiator alone will hold the full gallon of Toyota coolant? It's so tiny, I can't imagine it all going in.
BTW what do you get for a gallon of Toyota OEM coolant? I paid $26.95 for each gallon I bought (got two, wanted to have one as a spare if needed later, we have three Toyotas in the family anyways).
Some type of bolt but don't use the thread part, the size should be about 10MM, but that is the stud size, not head size, or you could use vise grips to clamp it down. It isn't pressurized. Just do your best to keep them pointed upward.
As for the coolant pouring in the radiator, pour it in slowly. Remember that it does have to run through the engine. You want to make sure that some fluid is in there, so if you want to mix as you go, you can, but the 50/50 mix will end up being 1 gallon coolant rest water.
MSRP on OEM coolant is $26.33, so they just rounded up. If I shipped you coolant, it would have added so much to your shipping cost that it wouldn't have saved you anyting.
Thanks Gary. Would a pencil work, shoved into the ATF line?
I was thinking about removing the lines from where they connect to the ATX rather than the radiator (as it shows in the writeup), then using the nifty line cap/plugs that came with the new radiator to cap those connections, then just hold / tie the lines up with the old radiator (point them up) and then once the rad is out of the car, move the hoses to the new rad...
Not sure if a pencil would seal or not. If it were me, and I had them, I'd use vise girps and clamp them, but the bolt thing works too.
I will let you know this, if for some reason you need those lines, and I am only mentioning this just in case, not just any hose will do. You will have to go to your local parts store and ask for high pressure transmission hose, or order it from a dealer or me. I am only mentioning this JUST IN CASE, and to let you know that not just any hose will work.
SUCCESS!!! Thanks to this thread Gen 3 I4 Radiator Change/ Thermostat Change and having all the right parts ready to go (thanks again TOYOTAPARTSMAN/Gary) this really was a breeze of a job. Only snafus were the TWO bolts I snapped off while removing the metal skid plate protector thing under the radiator and just a wee bit of environmental terrorism (fluid spills on my driveway now being absorbed by kitty litter).
One question I do have is, as I expected, proper filling of the radiator. I found the engine block drain plug and tried to get it out but when it didn't cooperate I decided it might be fused to the block and to let it go. I had a feeling draining the radiator would not be enough and I was right. I "flushed" the system by filling the new radiator with water from a garden hose (as suggested in the instructions) then draining it out. What came out of the radiator didn't even fill a gallon milk jug. So, I did it again. This time what came out (same amount) was more like water so I closed the valve and then filled with Toyota RED coolant. The entire gallon WOULD NOT go in, so I filled it to the max then dumped the rest in the overflow tank. It ended up being slightly over the FILL line. Went for a drive, temps are great, NO LEAKS at all, and I'm waiting to see how much of the overflow tank coolant gets sucked back into the engine as it cools off.
Overall, though, this was project a huge success and I figure I saved AT LEAST $300 - $400, maybe even more. So, THANKS EVERYONE!
Where is the best place to dispose of old coolant?
Now, on to my next project, the valve cover gasket!
Glad to hear that it was a success. If you tackled that, I don't think you'll have to much difficultly doing the VC gasket.
Any dealer should take it for you, I know I would. If not, some auto parts stores, or quick lube places should. Finding someplace that works on cars shouldn't have a problem taking your waste coolant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjarrett
SUCCESS!!! Thanks to this thread Gen 3 I4 Radiator Change/ Thermostat Change and having all the right parts ready to go (thanks again TOYOTAPARTSMAN/Gary) this really was a breeze of a job. Only snafus were the TWO bolts I snapped off while removing the metal skid plate protector thing under the radiator and just a wee bit of environmental terrorism (fluid spills on my driveway now being absorbed by kitty litter).
One question I do have is, as I expected, proper filling of the radiator. I found the engine block drain plug and tried to get it out but when it didn't cooperate I decided it might be fused to the block and to let it go. I had a feeling draining the radiator would not be enough and I was right. I "flushed" the system by filling the new radiator with water from a garden hose (as suggested in the instructions) then draining it out. What came out of the radiator didn't even fill a gallon milk jug. So, I did it again. This time what came out (same amount) was more like water so I closed the valve and then filled with Toyota RED coolant. The entire gallon WOULD NOT go in, so I filled it to the max then dumped the rest in the overflow tank. It ended up being slightly over the FILL line. Went for a drive, temps are great, NO LEAKS at all, and I'm waiting to see how much of the overflow tank coolant gets sucked back into the engine as it cools off.
Overall, though, this was project a huge success and I figure I saved AT LEAST $300 - $400, maybe even more. So, THANKS EVERYONE!
Where is the best place to dispose of old coolant?
Now, on to my next project, the valve cover gasket!
The automatic transmission connection to the radiator is cooling the ATF as it returns to the pan. The return hose empties directly into the AT oil pan.
The hoses to the radiator are above the level of oil in the pan. If the engine is off there is no flow or pressure. It's neatest to remove the hoses on the engine side and tie or tape them up on the radiator. After you remove the radiator, drain them into a pan as best you can, then plug the holes.
I didn't plug the holes well enough, and the few ounce of ATF left in the radiator make a disproportionate mess.
In operation, the ATF is under minimal pressure as it flows through the radiator. The tank in the radiator is a simple cylinder, with minimal flow restriction. And the outlet dumps directly in the AT oil pan, with almost no backpressure.
Great experience. I like to follow your step to flush my coolant, not just drain and fill.
I have question about your flush procedure. My understanding, only this distilled water can be used. But you fill the radiator with city water from garden hose. Then start engineer to cycle it. Then stop car, drain it. This will leave no-distilled water in the system, right? I did not see you get it out later.
Second, when you fill the Red long life coolant, did you do 50/50 pre mix first? It seems you fill directly, how did you control 50/50 mix?
You should never flush a system with tap water. Some of the water will stay in the system, especially in the heater core, it's not possible to remove it all unless you use compressed air. Always flush with distilled water, it's not that expensive.
Toyota red requires mixing, 50% coolant up to 70% (no more). Best is to use 60%, by the time it mixes with the water that remains in the system, you will have a nearly ideal mix. I use a large glass jar to to pre-mix, or sometimes I buy Toyota pink which is premixed. Toyota pink is 60/40 I believe, but this may vary depending on your climate I'm not sure.
The quality of your tap water makes a difference here.
I'm pretty careful with fluids, but I'm still fine with flushing using water from a garden hose. I drain the radiator, remove the thermostat, and open the heater core valve. The upper radiator hose is removed from the radiator and redirected into a bucket. I put the hose into the radiator, turn the water on, and start the car for a few seconds.
I do capture the first few drains completely, and pour them down the sanitary sewer. (Not a septic tank or storm sewer.) After that, any remaining antifreeze is so diluted that it poses no danger so I'm not concerned if some of the flush water ends up running down the gutter.
If I have a spare gallon of distilled water, I'll use it for the final flush. I pour the distilled water through the engine (off!) using the upper radiator hose, letting it drain out the radiator petcock.
I fill with the correct amount of full strength antifreeze first, then top off with the distilled water. This way you don't have to be concerned with how much water is left in the engine block or heater core.
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