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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-21-2010, 03:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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'93 won't start.

Okay so I gotta couple of questions about this car (93 camry LE) because I've been having problems with it lately.

I know it has spark so that is not the problem.

I am currently checking to see if it has a fuel issue. I found out that the line is leaking when I crank it. But my question is about the pressure.

Does this car have a Schrader valve and where is it at? Also I would like to know that if you turn the key to the accessory, isn't the fuel pump supposed to kick on and prime the line? I don't hear the fuel pump kick on and no gas comes out of the line unless I am cranking it.

I checked the timing belt by taking off the dist cap and it moves fine. Could the timing belt have jumped though? and how do I check that?
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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OK more info needed. Did your car just not start one day or did it die in flight? When your cranking it how does it sound (normal crank, very slow crank, or fast high pitched crank). How bad is this line leaking?

Does this car have a Schrader valve and where is it at?
not in the fuel system (not sure why you ask)

you turn the key to the accessory, isn't the fuel pump supposed to kick on and prime the line?
if you got fuel pressure while cranking then your fine. every model is different.

you check to see if you jumped a tooth by removing top cover putting crank on 0 and checking cam timing. but ive installed belts off a tooth before by accident and car would still run. may not be the problem unless way off. was your belt loud before this problem (i mean louder than normal cause their all loud)
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the quick response, It died one day while I was driving it just died on me, and it would crank like normal but wouldn't fire.

The line is not leaking bad but it is more than just a few drops. Initially I thought it was the pickup coil so I replaced the distributor today and it fired once then quit again and now the cranking is different. Its seems kinda slow.

Belt was normal before this happened.
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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hmm well.. fuel line leaks are no good definitely fix that asap just to completely rule that out (and to save gas). but i dont think a couple drops would cause a no start. you said it did fire after the dissy install but cranks slow. try charging the batt up and crank the crap out of it.. see what happens. if no luck then start pulling covers and checking timing, and finally compression. also couple easy checks:

remove rad cap and crank- make sure no coolant is shooting out
check oil for coolant
remove a plug on a random cylinder and look at plug condition also taking a flashlight and looking into cylinder for anything weird
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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4th Generation

could you explain about this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hugesack View Post

remove rad cap and crank- make sure no coolant is shooting out
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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double check all fuses.. under hood and behind coin tray.

check crank/cam sensors.

get starting fluid and remove the intake spray a little into the intake and crank it to see if it fires

throwing any codes?

check MAF/MAP sensor
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I dont know how to check codes cause its OBD 1 and the diagnosis thingy under the hood is gross looking to begin with. All fuses and relays check out though.

I will charge the battery tomorrow and crank it to see what happens, fuel line will take a few days to get though. Will check back in after battery is charged.
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliRazoR View Post
could you explain about this?

say the motor has no compression due to bad head gasket, cracked block or whatever. say coolant is getting into the cylinders. when you crank compression will go into the cooling system and actually force coolant out any way possible. with the radiator cap off that would be the path of least resistance. ive even seen overflow bottles blow there caps off while cranking. it would all depend on how exactly the motor failed tho.


Not saying this is your problem. just a quick check
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hugesack View Post
say the motor has no compression due to bad head gasket, cracked block or whatever. say coolant is getting into the cylinders. when you crank compression will go into the cooling system and actually force coolant out any way possible. with the radiator cap off that would be the path of least resistance. ive even seen overflow bottles blow there caps off while cranking. it would all depend on how exactly the motor failed tho.


Not saying this is your problem. just a quick check

How often do these motors crack or blow head gaskets exactly? I just replaced this engine back in september.
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Combomambo View Post
How often do these motors crack or blow head gaskets exactly? I just replaced this engine back in september.
lol ok sorry dont freak out. was just answering the other guys question. diagnosing crank no start is just process of elimination starting with easy checks first. but since theres just about every reason why a motor would crank and not start you cant automatically rule anything out just because its not common.

i think your on the right track right now. gotta make sure that battery is good, starting fluid and check for codes

Last edited by hugesack; 08-22-2010 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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There is a second diagnostic port by the driver's knee. The one in the engine compartment is easier to see when putting in the jumper (e.g. paper clip). What is the problem with it?

Verify that the spark is strong and blue. A weak yellow spark won't run the engine. A partially shorted coil is a common failure on these engines.
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Old 08-28-2010, 04:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Alright guys check this out. I replaced the fuel line for 5 bucks (gotta love salvage yards) charged the battery and cranked it. Weezed and wouldn't start then I cranked the shit out of it smacked its ass talked dirty to it and gave it a little tongue action and she started up just fine.

Thanks to everyone who posted in this you guys helped a lot.

Now to perform some maintenance on it.... I Have a battery light that stays on for most of my driving sometimes it goes off, sometimes it only comes on when I brake and sometimes it follows the sequence of my turn signals when they are on. Any ideas? Alt and Battery are good as new. Could a bad grounding be causing this?
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