3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Does anybody know what part I just broke, and any suggestions in fixing it.
I was removing the plenum bolts which required a lot of torque and once the bolt moved my hand swung into this part and broke it.
1997 V6 Camry
Also any tips on moving the wiring harness going across the rear valve cover so I can get to the valve cover? Do I just lift up the cover and leave the harness in place?
It looks a lot like something I accidentally broke on a Gen2 V6 while replacing the air intake plenum. It was some type of Bourdon tube that opens or closes to the attached vacuum lines when it reaches a certain temperature (our's was attached to a manifold in the coolant loop).
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Thanks. It does look like that part. Any tips on what to do with the wiring harness going across the rear valve cover to get the cover off?
I've removed the two nuts in the middle of the cover that hold the harness on, and three nuts on the driver's side, but it still seems to be firmly attached on both sides of the engine, blocking me from taking the cover off.
Thanks. It does look like that part. Any tips on what to do with the wiring harness going across the rear valve cover to get the cover off?
I've removed the two nuts in the middle of the cover that hold the harness on, and three nuts on the driver's side, but it still seems to be firmly attached on both sides of the engine, blocking me from taking the cover off.
There's a super secret bolt on the passenger side that you can't see very well, that's probably holding it in place. Go here and take a look at picture #11 showing the bolt. It's the third row, first pic.
You guys are right on target. The broken part is the VSV for the Acoustic Control Induction System. I broke the exact same little piece of plastic when digging down to the knock sensors on our '98 Sienna (with the 1MZ-FE, like the Camrys back then). Believe it or not, I was able to get things back together using rubber cement. I cut off the end of the tubing that had the broken piece of plastic in it, and then cemented the remaining tubing to the broken plastic stub remaining on the VSV. I thought it would just be a temporary fix, but that was 14,000 miles ago with trips from Kentucky to Canada and Florida since then.
My friend at a Toyota dealership quoted me $51.73 plus shipping for the VSV, so ajkalian's quote is reasonable.
As for the wiring harness looped over the rear valve cover, what a pain! I disconnected the super secret bolt ajkalian mentioned, but still found I didn't have enough slack in the harness to get the valve cover back in place. I could remove it easily enough but to put it back on I had to get my wife to hold the harness, so I could use both hands to maneuver the cover. I had a new gasket and a little smear of Permatex in place that I didn't want to bump around.
So to your last question, yes, you can just lift up the harness and slip the valve cover out from under it, but you'll need a third hand to hold the harness up when you go to put the valve cover back in place. When you lift it up, it's not going to come up very far (because of the harness), so the next step is to start bringing it towards you.
Good luck!
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That's one of the nuts I removed on the driver's side. When I followed the wires further down there was actually another nut even more hidden keeping the thing in place.
On the passenger side I found the harness is held in by two clips and I detached them. So now I can actually move the harness up a little bit.
Excellent---sounds like you're making progress! Are you going in to fix a leak? If so, all this work is going to be worth the effort. My father-in-law recently offered me some old cardboard to put on the garage floor, to catch the leaks. I put my arm around his shoulder and said, "Dad, I don't HAVE any leaks!" That sure felt good to be able to say that after putting up with a drippy valve cover for longer than I dare admit!
That's one of the nuts I removed on the driver's side. When I followed the wires further down there was actually another nut even more hidden keeping the thing in place.
On the passenger side I found the harness is held in by two clips and I detached them. So now I can actually move the harness up a little bit.
Try removing the two little studs from the valve cover when it is out of the car on the bench. I had to use vice grips to get them out. Why Toyota didn't just use a short bolt is beyond me.
Then you can get it back in without rubbing anything. Then replace the two studs, or do what I did. Just leave them off. I mean, where is the wiring harness going to go?? Another thing that is holding the harness in place is a wire drooping down, and going to the power steering pump. If you remove the connector to the power steering pump, and take off the studs, you will have plenty of room to get the valve cover back in without smearing the sealer.
Of course all of this info is for the next time you do it.
I took one of them out, but I am still stuck on the driver's side. The harness won't move up any more because it is blocked by that EGR pipe, and there is not enough space to lift the cover up on that side to remove it.
I took one of them out, but I am still stuck on the driver's side. The harness won't move up any more because it is blocked by that EGR pipe, and there is not enough space to lift the cover up on that side to remove it.
Well,you can do what I did....just bend it out of the way.
Or you can do it the right way by removing the EGR pipe. There's just two nuts holding it on, but they are kinda hard to get to.
Thanks. I took the pipe off and got the cover off. Hopefully it gets easier from here.
OK now for the fun part. Are you planning on replacing the tube seals? If not it's something to do now that the valve covers are off the engine. Just be sure to mark which way they go. Me I wasn't paying attention and got one valve cover one way, one the other way. Then try figuring out which one is right. So mark the new ones before you put them in.
I'm sure that you want to clean the screen in the oil filler hole. Well you can't, it's riveted in place. If you have a washing station, then you can try to clean it from the outside, flush the gunk out and blow it out with some compressed air.
The bolts that hold down the valve cover are the cause of the leak. Here's what I discovered when I did mine. It's an easy fix, just get a lot of washers, and your problem will be solved. Here's a discussion on the bolts, scroll down to #5 for pics. Use Permatex silver gasket sealer. It matches the aluminum valve covers nicely when it dries. Looks much better than a black line, if you know what I mean.
Don't forget to attach the single ground that bolts to the very back of the intake manifold. I did, and it was a PITA to get it attached when everything was bolted up. If I had it to do again, I'd just add 6 inches to it, and move it to the side of the intake manifold where the other two ground wires are bolted.
You probably removed the Throttle Body and at the base of it is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). There are three hoses that attach to it. Hopefully you marked them. One is for vacuum, the other two are plumbed from the cooling system. Be sure the cooling hoses are attached before you start it up. Other wise you will have a mess. Ask me how I know.
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