3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I did an engine swap from a '92 to a '93 2.2L back in November and since then my Battery light has been acting weird. It stays on most of my driving but sometimes it goes off and I can't get it to come back on even if I try by using tons of power (like brights with blaring radio, turn signals, interior light, etc.) Sometimes it only comes on when I brake and sometimes I hear a clicking noise that matches my turn signal (most likely due to not enough power).
Battery is brand new and has been checked and alt has been checked 4 times. Any thoughts? Would a bad grounding possibly be the cause?
The wiring connection is kinda bad because the stud is stripped so the nut does hold on the wiring but it is not tight. And it appears to get metal shavings or something on top of the nut. What do you mean by brush length?
A bad connection on the main charging wire will cause load drop-outs and arcing. Check for evidence at the contact area. The resulting voltage spikes can damage the voltage regulator or even the diodes. Find a way to secure that connection.
The brush carrier location depends on the alternator brand. It may be simply held onto the back of the alternator with two screws.
Who's checked the alternator 4 times? How was it checked? Was it put on a load test machine? How many amps did it produce?
If the wire isn't held on tight, you won't be able to git the proper load. Time to either replace the alternator with one from the parts yard or rebuild the one you have. You should be able to use www.car-part.com to find one local to you or someone who can ship one to you.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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Also, check the belt. If it's loose, it'll cause some problems. It might look tight, but feel it.
Ignore this advice.
The belt only needs to be snug, not tight. A too-tight belt will destroy the alternator front bearing.
The belt works by being pulled deeper into the grooves as the load increases. The friction pressure comes from the grooves pressing in on the belt, not the belt tension. There only has to be enough initial tension to start the process.
Who's checked the alternator 4 times? How was it checked? Was it put on a load test machine? How many amps did it produce?
If the wire isn't held on tight, you won't be able to git the proper load. Time to either replace the alternator with one from the parts yard or rebuild the one you have. You should be able to use www.car-part.com to find one local to you or someone who can ship one to you.
Autozone checked it. I thought about rebuilding it but that looked difficult. I will post pictures of the wires in a couple hours.
Thanks very much! I will start on that on saturday. Where can I get the brushes and is it possible to replace the stud?
Local Toyota Dealer, rockauto.com, partznet.com
As to the stud. It is a part of a big part, actually, which is expensive to replace (look for 27357, OEM part no is 27357‑74160).
I would just re-thread it and use smaller bolt, if necessary.
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
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