3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I got my oil changed and the dealership recommended the following repairs and maintenance. Which one should I get done first and what order of importance and is necessary from the list:
I have a 99 Toyota Camry with 178k miles
Oil Pan Leaking (Need to reseal)
Valve Cover Gasket Leaking
P.V.C. valve is worn
Cap Cam plug leaking
Brake fluid is black
P/S fluid is dirty
EFI Service
Coolant Service
Serpentine drive belts cracked
Replace Spark plug wires
As a dealer, I look at this as really one job because it is all right there as you do one. I would take care of the oil leak firt, but include drive belts as I did. then coolant, brake fluid, which isn't that hard, then P/S fluid. But again, I would do this as one job all at once.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb1216
I got my oil changed and the dealership recommended the following repairs and maintenance. Which one should I get done first and what order of importance and is necessary from the list:
I have a 99 Toyota Camry with 178k miles
Oil Pan Leaking (Need to reseal)
Valve Cover Gasket Leaking
P.V.C. valve is worn
Cap Cam plug leaking
Brake fluid is black
P/S fluid is dirty
EFI Service
Coolant Service
Serpentine drive belts cracked
Replace Spark plug wires
Do the valve cover/cam plugs ect and maybe the leak above is MAKING it LOOK like a leak below. There is is no overlap in labor. So you have nothing to loose but money. Well unless they can prove to you its really leaking there at the pan.
__________________
95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Do the valve cover/cam plugs ect and maybe the leak above is MAKING it LOOK like a leak below. There is is no overlap in labor. So you have nothing to loose but money. Well unless they can prove to you its really leaking there at the pan.
+1 to that advice.
Oil will leak down due to gravity, so start at the top of the engine and work down. Although the oil could be blown around the engine compartment and confusing the location.
Before you have anything done, or spend any money, visit your local car wash, take a couple cans of de-greaser and clean your engine bay, the underneath, and wherever you can spray the stuff. Rinse everything off, drive home, put a big piece of cardboard under the car, and let it sit overnight.
In the morning you will know exactly where the leak is coming from, based on the spots on the cardboard. Then look above the spots, and there's your leak.
Oil will leak down due to gravity, so start at the top of the engine and work down. Although the oil could be blown around the engine compartment and confusing the location.
Before you have anything done, or spend any money, visit your local car wash, take a couple cans of de-greaser and clean your engine bay, the underneath, and wherever you can spray the stuff. Rinse everything off, drive home, put a big piece of cardboard under the car, and let it sit overnight.
In the morning you will know exactly where the leak is coming from, based on the spots on the cardboard. Then look above the spots, and there's your leak.
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i need to finally visit that self-service car wash nearby and do some engine bay cleaning on both of my cars hehe ... for some reason I was always afraid of thoroughly cleaning the engine ... I guess waiting 15 mins after driving in for cleaning and then waiting 30 mins afterward will do as safety precaution ?
I'd love to have finally a clean engine bay LOL, i was always jealous of pics of yours with that shiny engine bay
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Just remember that water that doesn't get into high voltage places is not much of an issue. Its when sh$ts already bad, like spark plug wires and coils that problems come up.
The real problem is using caustic cleaners that put other forms of corrosion in motion inside places you can't see! Careful what you spray on!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Replacing the PCV valve and grommet is easy and inexpensive.
If you replace the valve cover gasket yourself (pretty easy), doing the PCV valve and plug wires takes no more time. Some shops (and most dealers) will charge time for each job.
Replacing the belt is also quick and easy. Note that it's normal for a multi-groove belt to be a little cracked at the rubber ribs. Only if you see cracks in the fabric does it need to be changed.
An oil leak can be ignored if it's just a drop or two. And replacing the valve cover gasket might just fix the problem.
Changing the coolant is easy, but a bit sloppy.
Changing the brake fluid is a bit harder, but still easy enough if you have a floor jack.
The "EFI service" is just running a cleaner through the injectors. It's often an unneeded money maker for the dealer.
Pads could be fine, but if it is missing any to of the shims, or if the rotor is warped, or if the pad surface is dirty, etc. Hard to diagnose a squeak over the internet.
Change the brake fluid....You dont want the brakes to fail
Change serpentine belts....need everything running
Change your plug wires
Change ur Coolant
Replace gaskets to stop oil leaking (Cam seal included) and PCV valve.....
Once all of that is done....
SEAFOAM THAT BITCH!!!!
Try to kill a couple of these off at a time and you will have no worries.....
__________________ Finally Red MKII MR2 5s & Metallic Blue 96 Cam 1MZ
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