3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I am at the last step of installing the new timing belt and am having a problem...when I rotate the crankshaft pully (clockwise) to get the notch to line up with the zero on the timing belt cover, at 5 degrees, the pully becomes really difficult to turn..so I push harder...all at once, I get the pully to move and it shoots past the zero !! (every time) What is causing this...can it be the position of the camshaft pulley ?? (All the sparkplugs are out)...When I took the old belt off, and had to rotate the crank pulley, I had no problem getting it to line up at the zero mark. I was told that I can move the pulley counterclockwise, back to the zero mark...but I am wondering what changed since saturday when I took the old belt off ?? For some reason, it is much harder to rotate the pulley. Do I need to spray some type of lubricant into each sparkplug opening ? to get the engine to rotate easily...or do I need to move the position of the camshaft pulley (I have it lined up on the "dimple in the hole" for zero) I have read every article/book I can find about the timing belt for the 2000 camry 2.2 4 cyl and find nothing about a problem like this ???
[QUOTE=When I took the old belt off, and had to rotate the crank pulley, I had no problem getting it to line up at the zero mark. ...but I am wondering what changed since saturday when I took the old belt off ?? For some reason, it is much harder to rotate the pulley. [/QUOTE]
You're working against the spring tension provided by your valve train.
The crank would turn easier/smoother with the T belt off.
This "jump" @ around 5 degrees is normal, and you can turn it ccw to get to zero.
Make sure your #1 piston is at TDC then check your cam sprocket window/mark with the crank pulley @ zero.
The Following User Says Thank You to MSK98Snowball For This Useful Post:
I took the crank pulley and timing belt off again to start all over, and now I am having a problem getting the crank shaft to turn...and I do not want to force it...what can cause this ?? I have the cam lined up at zero (groove in the hole)...the instructions say to line up the crank timing belt sproket with the zero mark on the oil pump body..I found the groove in the crank timing belt sproket...but do not see any mark on the oil pump body that I can line up the mark on the timing belt sproket with ?? I took a pic of the oil pump body to share, but do not know how to post it yet...I will work on that...I am getting nervous that I screwed something inside the engine that is causing the crank shaft to be very hard (if not impossible) to turn...sorry to be such a pain with this, but my wife is driving me crazy...she thinks that I broke it !
You're working against the spring tension provided by your valve train.
The crank would turn easier/smoother with the T belt off.
This "jump" @ around 5 degrees is normal, and you can turn it ccw to get to zero.
Make sure your #1 piston is at TDC then check your cam sprocket window/mark with the crank pulley @ zero.
I took the timing belt off, and when I try to turn the crank, it will not turn clockwise...and I hear a metal against metal clunk inside the engine...did I break something ?
Unless the spark plugs are out, its still building compression on #1 cyl as the valves are closed. So it will offer resistance while turning the crank shaft.
As said above, the valve train will make the cam shaft want to move to balance out the spring pressures which are trying to close all of the valves at once. Put a big wrench on the cam gear and force it just past the mark, slide the belt on and let go of the wrench (while cranks at TDC).
Verify marks. Done.
As for the crank not turning at all. Hmm. . . .You drop anything down one of the spark plug tubes or bind something behind the crank gear, balancer or timing cover?
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
I took the timing belt off, and when I try to turn the crank, it will not turn clockwise...and I hear a metal against metal clunk inside the engine...did I break something ?
artie
No, see above post.
Is it a stickshift and its still in gear?
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Summary of info from this thread and your "timing mark" one...
2000 5SFE engine.
Timing belt off, therefore no linkage from crankshaft to camshaft/valve train.
All spark plugs out.
Transmission not in gear.
Engine should turn clockwise pretty easily.
Check what 73sport said above.
This metal clunking sound you are hearing... does it seem to coincide with the point at which turning the crank runs into resistance? Does the crank have some ability to turn a little and then stops?
Yes...the crank turns very little (maybe a quarter or an eighth of a revolution), and then it stops...will turn in both directions (clockwise and counterclockwise). Plugs are out, car not in gear etc. It was turning very easily, and I could not get the timing mark on the crank to line up at zero...compression was stopping it at about five degrees before zero...I would push harder and it would jump past zero (I did not know that I could turn it counterclockwise a bit to get zero) tore it all down again to check for belt binding...when reassembeled, it would not turn at all. Tore it down again...while belt and sprokets were off the crank, I tried the starter and engine turned freely for about three seconds...put it back together (sprokets, gear, belt etc) and then it would turn about ninety degrees in both directions. Thought it may be the starter binding (bendix spring faulty?) so I pulled the starter off...still would only get very little rotation of crank. Checked the condition of starter teeth and housing for broken piece...starter is fine and so are the teeth on flywheel that I can see with the small amount of rotation. Today, I will tear the crank area down again to be sure there is no binding in the crank beak area and will report my findings asap.
Since the starter turned the engine with no problem...it does not seem like something broke off the flywheel and is jamming the rotation. I am hoping that it will be something in the crank beak area since that would be the easiest to replace. In the meantime, my wife rented a car for work etc for $17 a day...but only for the weekend..tomorrow...the rate triples...so the heat is on for me to solve this mystery and get her back on the road. This camry has the best a/c system of any car I have ever ridden in...even here in Miami with temps near 100 and 95% humidity...that little car will freeze you out...it must be run on low fan speed or you would turn blue. I hope that it will be back on the road soon so my life can return to normal. I am usually very sucessful when it comes to fixing things around the house so I am trying to be optimistic...if I did not have you guys behind me, I would have quit long ago (this has been going on for a whole week !). Thank you for your ideas and support...I am a member for life of TN ! After all...we have two toyotas...this camry beast and a 95 T-100 truck 6 cyl that I paid $1,000 for...five years ago...only did oil changes and plugs/wires and the a/c evaporator... in that time and it is still going strong...has a good a/c...not as good as the camry icebox
I am going to go out and strip down the crank....again.
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