where is the timing mark ?

[artie in miami]

Here is the pic of my oil pump body, and I need to find the timing mark that I line up the mark on the crank timing belt sproket with...I can see the groove between the teeth of the timing belt sproket but do not see where to line this up with on the oil pump body ?? Here is the link to the pic I took

Thanks in advance...this thing is driving me crazy...I almost wish that I paid the money to pep boys. Hopefully, you guys can help me restore my confidence.

artie in miami

[Chris Crash]

The pulley should only fit one way.

[Stillrunning]

Timing marks are on lower timing belt cover. To start without cover just position the woodruff key slot facing up, that will be TDC #1. Is that not in your manual? Are you putting on new belt or re-using the old?

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

Artie,
try this link, it may help you out.

DIY: GEN3 Timing Belt + Waterpump + Oil Seal Change - Part 2

[carsrus]

Yup look arond for the tiny "key" that goes in the slot on the crank. They like to fall out sometimes. Put it back in and but the crank sprocket back on then the lower cover and then the harmonic balancer.

You can also align with the mark on the crank sprocket but that is just a pain to keep aligned.

[artie in miami]

Originally Posted by carsrus

Yup look arond for the tiny "key" that goes in the slot on the crank. They like to fall out sometimes. Put it back in and but the crank sprocket back on then the lower cover and then the harmonic balancer.

You can also align with the mark on the crank sprocket but that is just a pain to keep aligned.

That was why I put the pic of the oil pump body...I cannot find the mark to align the mark on the crank sproket with ??? Do you see the mark in the pic above...I do not see it !!

[Rattlin_Steele]

I'm at work so can't photo edit your pic to show it, but draw a line beween the "N" of AISIN and the center of the crankshaft snout. Notice the little nub at about the mid-point of the imaginary line. It's at roughly the 10 o'clock position just outside the radius of the crankshaft seal.

To my knowledge there is not a clear distinct alignment mark on the crankshaft timing pulley to align with the aforementioned nub. If I recall correctly, the proper alignment was with the left edge of the key slot on the pulley. When I get home tonight I can try to verify based on pictures I've taken before.

[artie in miami]

Originally Posted by Rattlin_Steele

I'm at work so can't photo edit your pic to show it, but draw a line beween the "N" of AISIN and the center of the crankshaft snout. Notice the little nub at about the mid-point of the imaginary line. It's at roughly the 10 o'clock position just outside the radius of the crankshaft seal.

To my knowledge there is not a clear distinct alignment mark on the crankshaft timing pulley to align with the aforementioned nub. If I recall correctly, the proper alignment was with the left edge of the key slot on the pulley. When I get home tonight I can try to verify based on pictures I've taken before.

the crank pulley does have a timing mark, I can see it...it is a "V" between two of the teeth...the teeth that are closest to the block...not the teeth the belt attaches to...the ones that the sensor communicates with. Any thoughts on why the crank is so hard to turn...today...I can barely get it to move...I am hoping that I did not screw up something in the block !!

[73sport]

This is V6, but it should be near the same. Look to the red dot at the top and see how it aligns to the housing.



Notice the DOT near the cam belt drive is for the pulley and the dot near the crank trigger wheel is for the TDC. Which year is yours? Does it have a Distributor? Sorry, in a hurry. . .

I4 folks, feel free to chime in. . . .

[artie in miami]

Originally Posted by 73sport

This is V6, but it should be near the same. Look to the red dot at the top and see how it aligns to the housing.



Notice the DOT near the cam belt drive is for the pulley and the dot near the crank trigger wheel is for the TDC. Which year is yours? Does it have a Distributor? Sorry, in a hurry. . .

I4 folks, feel free to chime in. . . .

Mine is a 2000 camry, no distrib, 2.2 4 cyl...for some reason the crank is super hard to turn clockwise...even with the timing belt off...what could have happened ? I do see the little blip on the edge of the crank seal rim...now I just need to find out why I cannot turn the crank pulley (harmonic balancer pulley) even with the belt off ??? This job is turning into a week long epic adventure. I got it apart fine...getting it back together is no joy.

[Rattlin_Steele]

Originally Posted by artie in miami

the crank pulley does have a timing mark, I can see it...it is a "V" between two of the teeth...the teeth that are closest to the block...not the teeth the belt attaches to...the ones that the sensor communicates with.

I never noticed the "V" mark between the sensor teeth, so learn something new. Is this mark on the frontside of the pulley so it's visible when trying to align? Also does it happen to be roughly aligned with the left side of the key slot on the pulley? If not, then maybe what I've told you is the alignment nub on the oil pump is not the right thing to be using.

[73sport]

Originally Posted by artie in miami

Mine is a 2000 camry, no distrib, 2.2 4 cyl...for some reason the crank is super hard to turn clockwise...even with the timing belt off...what could have happened ? I do see the little blip on the edge of the crank seal rim...now I just need to find out why I cannot turn the crank pulley (harmonic balancer pulley) even with the belt off ??? This job is turning into a week long epic adventure. I got it apart fine...getting it back together is no joy.

for some reason the crank is super hard to turn clockwise...

So it turns counter clockwise with light effort? But Does not turn clockwise?

You have two threads on this same topic. I posted ideas in the other before I they were the same issue.

Is it it stick shift? Is it in Neutral?

As a reference, how hard is too hard. Say you have 18" ratchet and you push down with all your weight and it doesn;t turn. Yes, you have a problem.

It really should turn with equal effort both ways with the spark plugs removed.

Please step through EVERY step you have done. Everything.

- pulled spark plugs
- turned engine to TDC
- removed covers
- removed timing belt
- removed pullies
- installed pullies ect. . .

When did it stop turning? What was the last thing you did? Something with the oil pump, crank drive gear, the flywheel? Maybe you tried to stop the flywheel from turning by inserting something?????

Please advise. . .

[MSK98Snowball]

Originally Posted by artie in miami

That was why I put the pic of the oil pump body...I cannot find the mark to align the mark on the crank sproket with ??? Do you see the mark in the pic above...I do not see it !!

Artie, the marks you are looking for are illustrated exactly here http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=264429 as provided by TOYOTAPARTSMAN

Look at pic 47 - the small notch on the balancer/pulley aligns with the "0" on the lower timing belt cover which covers the oil pump - there is no reference mark on the oil pump itself.

Pic 48 clearly shows the camshaft sprocket with the reference mark visible through a "window" (round hole) in the sprocket arm.

You are set when you have aligned the balancer notch/T belt cover at zero and you can see the mark through the window on the camshaft sprocket arm.

[Rattlin_Steele]

Originally Posted by MSK98Snowball

- there is no reference mark on the oil pump itself.

There is a mark on the oil pump so that you can set the crank at TDC without having the lower plastic cover on.

See page EM-24, 1st paragraph and diagram

http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Ge...hanical_I4.pdf

[artie in miami]

Originally Posted by 73sport

for some reason the crank is super hard to turn clockwise...

So it turns counter clockwise with light effort? But Does not turn clockwise?

You have two threads on this same topic. I posted ideas in the other before I they were the same issue.

Is it it stick shift? Is it in Neutral?

As a reference, how hard is too hard. Say you have 18" ratchet and you push down with all your weight and it doesn;t turn. Yes, you have a problem.

It really should turn with equal effort both ways with the spark plugs removed.

Please step through EVERY step you have done. Everything.

- pulled spark plugs
- turned engine to TDC
- removed covers
- removed timing belt
- removed pullies
- installed pullies ect. . .

When did it stop turning? What was the last thing you did? Something with the oil pump, crank drive gear, the flywheel? Maybe you tried to stop the flywheel from turning by inserting something?????

Please advise. . .

It has an automatic trans and it is in park w/ emer brake on...I have not tried an 18" handle wrench...I used a socket wrench with a 12" length of pipe on it, and initially it would turn...once I put the sprokets back on (new seals) and the new tensioner and idler pully...then I put the new belt on w/o putting it on the cam sproket yet...I went to move the harmonic bal pulley nut to zero and kept missing it (would stop at 5 before) I gave up for that day...when I came back...it would not turn clockwise...so I took it apart again (harmonic bal pulley off...timing belt off...cover off)...now I tried to turn it with the 10" ratchet and it won't turn...so I quit for today. Tomorrow I will try again.

I followed the two part forum sticky that GAry mentioned above for changing the timing belt, water pump etc

Followed the steps perfectly and when I got the timing belt on temporarily (on all sprokets but the cam) is when I ran into trouble...could not get it to zero...so I took it apart again...and this is where I am right now. I put the bolt in the crank shaft and climbed under the car and could not get the pulley to turn clockwise. I will try with a longer wrench tomorrow. Thank you for your patience...I am about at the end of mine !

artie