3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
When I ran the Computer check on my 1998 Toyota Camry V4...
PO301: Cylinder 1 misfire
PO115: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction.
PO401: EGR Flow Insufficient Detected
You can check the engine coolant temperature sensor with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. If you don't have a manual you can download one for free at the top of the Camry forum over at AutomotiveForums.com. Here is the link:
The sensor is located to the right of the engine, as you are standing in front of the car, on a water port on the right side of the cylinder head. It is under a green plastic connector. First, make sure the connector is actually on the sensor.
I have and I unplugged it and plunged it back in. If the code still comes up I should replace it?. Both fans turn on. And also turn on when I turn on the A/C and The Eng got hot last night but I was doing 140..Like the temp G went near Red not even for a sec then came right back down and stayed in the middle.....Also when I put the new radiator in with Red Toyota coolant i did not turn on the heater when letting the air out of the system...So I think that could have made an effect Do you think so? ..Today I turned on the heater and got all the air out for about 30 mins...It bubbled over many times with many air pockets. So i think there was alot of air in the system. Tell me what you think Please
there are two coolant temprature sensor in your car:
1) at the bottom of radiator
2)to the right of the engine, as you are standing in front of the car, on a water port on the right side of the cylinder head. It is under a green plastic connector. First, make sure the connector is actually on the sensor.(as Mike said)
I have and I unplugged it and plunged it back in. If the code still comes up I should replace it?. Both fans turn on. And also turn on when I turn on the A/C and The Eng got hot last night but I was doing 140..Like the temp G went near Red not even for a sec then came right back down and stayed in the middle.....Also when I put the new radiator in with Red Toyota coolant i did not turn on the heater when letting the air out of the system...So I think that could have made an effect Do you think so? ..Today I turned on the heater and got all the air out for about 30 mins...It bubbled over many times with many air pockets. So i think there was alot of air in the system. Tell me what you think Please
Soo, let me get this right, you have a MIL light on with 3 codes, 1 Being a coolant malfuction and another a misfire, yet you drive your car to 140 mph with the temp gage going over 1/2 to full red ?? First off, any Toyota should never see temps over 2/3 on the temp gage (1/2 is really the norm).
2nd, did you replace the thermostat when changing the radiator ?? Should be done when chaging a radiator as should a new cap be installed.
3, the EGR system code is more then likely a bad EGR VSV, it's default is to have the EGR system on all the time. The monitor will get confused on this and interpate this as not enoff flow even though its flowing fully. This is a pesky VSV to replace as it bolted under the intake manifold about in the middle, It could also be a clogged EGR exhaust input tube or clug in the intake/EGR port, Bad Modulator or EGR Valve itself. You really need a vacume gage and a propper Knowage of how this system works to diag this system. Alot of mechanics will just sell all 3 items at once(Shotgun), Could also be a bad EGR temp sensor if so equipt.
Ok, I will end this with, MIL on 140 mph Rod tossed out of block with a melted cyl head...............=Priceless !!
The Eng got hot last night but I was doing 140... Tell me what you think Please
I think you're a wreckless moron. Do not do that again. EVER. Especially in a family sedan. I'd imagine your tires aren't even rated for those speeds. I know the stock suspension isn't meant to handle that. Or the brakes. Anyways...
PO301: Are you doing regular maintaince on the car other than oil changes? IE- keeping an eye on the spark plugs, plug wires, timing belt? What's the history of this vehicle?
PO115: Another annoying code. I'd just reset it for now and see if it comes back. Drive NORMALLY and keep and eye of the engine temp.
PO401: This is a bitch of a code to clear. You can dump hundreds of dollars into this and still not have the light clear. Clean your VSV and EGR. Do a full seafoam treatment and clean the throttle body. DIYs are in the sticky. Seafoam also likes to make your spark plugs not work so well. Good excuse to replace them, which might help with the first code.
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I think you're a wreckless moron. Do not do that again. EVER. Especially in a family sedan. I'd imagine your tires aren't even rated for those speeds. I know the stock suspension isn't meant to handle that. Or the brakes. Anyways...
PO301: Are you doing regular maintaince on the car other than oil changes? IE- keeping an eye on the spark plugs, plug wires, timing belt? What's the history of this vehicle?
PO115: Another annoying code. I'd just reset it for now and see if it comes back. Drive NORMALLY and keep and eye of the engine temp.
PO401: This is a bitch of a code to clear. You can dump hundreds of dollars into this and still not have the light clear. Clean your VSV and EGR. Do a full seafoam treatment and clean the throttle body. DIYs are in the sticky. Seafoam also likes to make your spark plugs not work so well. Good excuse to replace them, which might help with the first code.
P0401 is an easy code to diag if you know how this system works and how to diag it, Takes me no longer then 15 min to diag this correctly.
I'm also starting to see in allot of threads I'm reading, problems after seafoam treatments, I don't think it's a problem with the seafoam but more to do with the application. I would never advocate the average car tinkerer to put any liquid or foam into their intake. This done improperly could have serious Eng damage done (bent rod's,Broken piston's or ring lands, cracked head) This can also cause carbon/gunk knocked off to get stuck on top of pistons causing a carbon knock, stuck between valve seats causing loss of compression and at the very least start to clog your Catalytic converters or over work them trying to burn that shit off.
If your going to do this anyway plz remove all spark plugs and crank the engine over to blow out any foam/liquid that may have entered the combustion chamber.
"I have and I unplugged it and plunged it back in. If the code still comes up I should replace it?."
No, you should still check it out before replacing it.
You are also confused about what these sensors do. Your car has 3 different sensors that feed various components of the car with the coolant temperature. The one in your code (The one we are talking about, P0115.) is called the engine coolant temperature sensor. Toyota refers to it in their manuals as the ECT sensor. It sends a signal to the car's computer to tell the computer what the engine temperature is. The computer adjusts the fuel mixture accordingly. The sensor that turns the cooling fans on and off is another sensor and is located in the bottom of the radiator. There is actually a third sensor that sends a signal to the gage on the dash.
If you are not the original owner of the car you might just try clearing the codes and see if they return. There is no telling how long those codes have been stored in the car's computer. Try removing the ECU fuse for about 1 minute and then reinsert it. That should clear the codes. If the check engine light turns on again have the codes read again at a place like Autozone. Then deal with those codes.
PS: And slow down. Toyota Nation needs all of it's members.
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Piece of Crap
Anyways...
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