My car won't start -- Fuel Pump and/or Rail? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Darchrow Enigma · 09-11-2010, 01:45 AM

so...here's what i did to my car this morning before it died on me in the evening:

i took out the "ACIS" from the passenger side of the intake plenum. i scrubbed off all the thick grime, sprayed it with seafoam deep creep, then grinded down the inner housing (not the butterfly). wiped it down then put it back inside.

i then took my CP-e (non-customizable) off and sprayed seafoam deepcreep inside the t/b and scrubbed the inside to the best of my ability with a toothbrush. i put the CP-e back on.

i start the car and all works fine. there was white smoke coming out of my exhaust for about 2 minutes. i noticed that i was hearing some kind of new "whirring" noise..it sounded soft, i was wondering if my tires were screeching each time the transmission shifted. but it wasn't the tires (i'm sure), and i kept trying to listen, and it didn't happen all the time, but i did hear it only when the transmission shifted. anyway, i come to a stop sign, i try to accelerate and the engine shuts off on me and refuses to start.

it ain't the battery for sure. AAA tow guy said it's probably fuel pump or fuel rail.

so i'm wondering: should i just get the damaged part replaced? or upgrade performance based aftermarket?

Reference: free v6 mod...

AliRazoR · 09-11-2010, 03:37 AM

You Tube

Darchrow Enigma · 09-11-2010, 04:40 AM

my car doesn't even start...

and maybe spraying seafoam wouldn't cause a fire...well, or would it?

AliRazoR · 09-11-2010, 04:45 AM

with paper clip or something else connect the B+ to FP and then start the car.

CWH5 · 09-11-2010, 05:03 AM

Refusing to start as in it cranks over but does not fire(start) or it does not crank over ??
If you suspect a fuel pressure problem well then check the fuel pressure(around 45 psi is the norm) but this is not likely. (most tow truck drivers are tow truck drivers for a reason and its not cuz they are great tech's) not putting down TT drivers here.
I would start with rechecking the work you had just done, IE vacume leaks or loose conections. Any codes stored ??

***LynchburgCSI*** · 09-11-2010, 05:06 AM

Check for a CEL yet? Definitely sounds like a fuel or electrical issue.

Darchrow Enigma · 09-11-2010, 06:07 AM

it doesn't throw up any CEL...i've only touched 2 hoses while doing the whole mod, and double checked that i put them back in the right place.

car's at a shop right now, AAA said the shop will run a free diagnostic and tell me what's wrong with it.

Darchrow Enigma · 09-11-2010, 05:23 PM

i got the car back from the shop. mechanic said there was a blown fuse (a blue #15) and that once he replaced it..the engine started again.

well, great, i drove it away and about 15 minutes of driving later, engine dies on me. this time i didn't hear weird noises, nothing out of the ordinary except that my car was accelerating significantly faster than before.

this time i checked all the blue fuses, found two, both are fine...could barely see into the other fuses. should i get a larger fuse to replace the broken one (if i find it) or just leave my car on top of rail tracks?

cruisn76 · 09-11-2010, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darchrow Enigma

i got the car back from the shop. mechanic said there was a blown fuse (a blue #15) and that once he replaced it..the engine started again.

well, great, i drove it away and about 15 minutes of driving later, engine dies on me. this time i didn't hear weird noises, nothing out of the ordinary except that my car was accelerating significantly faster than before.

this time i checked all the blue fuses, found two, both are fine...could barely see into the other fuses. should i get a larger fuse to replace the broken one (if i find it) or just leave my car on top of rail tracks?

Okay I had this problem two days ago where I started the car and it died right away and it wouldn't start again. It will crank but no fire.

So my mechanic checked my AM fuse and it was blown. He found a short in the distributor and also found my coil was bad. So have that checked. If you are blowing the same fuse again then you must have a short somewhere. And since I had a short you should at least check at the distributor and work from there

Darchrow Enigma · 09-11-2010, 06:43 PM

there are no stupid questions, only stupid people:

i'm tacking new territory here, eletrics, where is the coil? and what exactly does the distributor cap look like?

i also feel so lazy, i dont wanna spend the day under my hood today. lol

i'm so bummed out. i should be so lucky though, that the car didn't crap out in the middle of the highway, because there's seriously no warning, just BLIP *off*....then the car just rolls on down until it can't push itself forth anymore.

***Eye8Pussies*** · 09-12-2010, 09:23 AM

yah...first of all, I am very curious as to why the tow truck driver would think that it's the fuel pump, or even more so, the fuel rails

as for your problem, what danny (cruisin) said seems pretty much right on the dot- it sounds like you have a short somewhere. Now, the thing that is important is to go back to that mechanic and ask him WHICH fuse he had to replace.

from the info that you've given, I presume that you have a 1mz. and as such, there are no real important wires (outside of the wiring harness) by the ACIS and plenum. There is a ground wire over there, but that won't cause a short.

My guess is that removing the CPE and playing around in the intake area probably knocked a wire loose somewhere, or somehow, as there are lots of wires around that area, and the MAF sensor wire is the most likely to make your car shut off, and not start. so I would start checking around there first.

also an FYI- you don't have a distributor. your ignition coils are located over the 3 sparkplugs on the front of your car

And DON'T put in bigger fuse in place of a blown fuse- that could fry the component that the fuse goes to, or even possibly start an electrical fire (though it will usually blow first)

cruisn76 · 09-13-2010, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

also an FYI- you don't have a distributor. your ignition coils are located over the 3 sparkplugs on the front of your car

And DON'T put in bigger fuse in place of a blown fuse- that could fry the component that the fuse goes to, or even possibly start an electrical fire (though it will usually blow first)

heh didn't know the 1MZ doesn't have a distributor. I have a 5sfe. Sorry for the misleading info. But check the fuse the did blow!

And putting a bigger fuse in place of a smaller one is ALWAYS A BIG NO NO. The least that can happen is a electrical fire.

73sport · 09-13-2010, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

yah...first of all, I am very curious as to why the tow truck driver would think that it's the fuel pump, or even more so, the fuel rails

as for your problem, what danny (cruisin) said seems pretty much right on the dot- it sounds like you have a short somewhere. Now, the thing that is important is to go back to that mechanic and ask him WHICH fuse he had to replace.

from the info that you've given, I presume that you have a 1mz. and as such, there are no real important wires (outside of the wiring harness) by the ACIS and plenum. There is a ground wire over there, but that won't cause a short.

My guess is that removing the CPE and playing around in the intake area probably knocked a wire loose somewhere, or somehow, as there are lots of wires around that area, and the MAF sensor wire is the most likely to make your car shut off, and not start. so I would start checking around there first.

also an FYI- you don't have a distributor. your ignition coils are located over the 3 sparkplugs on the front of your car

And DON'T put in bigger fuse in place of a blown fuse- that could fry the component that the fuse goes to, or even possibly start an electrical fire (though it will usually blow first)

But if the MAF or Igniter are unplugged, you get a CEL no questions asked.

Perhaps all this unrelated to the weekends work, but as said, recheck everything you did. The grounds over there by the ACIS are VERY Important! Make sure none are hanging free. Now if you did/do find one hanging free its kinda scary that a fuse blew with an open ground, but it could also mean another circuit needing the current sourced it though the one with the blown fuse which could have damaged it.

Again, back to that comment Eye8 made, which fuse was replaced? Need to know!

Was this car ever wrecked, had major engine work, been in a fire? I bet you have another fuse blown, but need to find which one and why.

Darchrow Enigma · 09-13-2010, 05:59 PM

it's the EFI fuse... it happened a second time, so i took the ground wiring from the ACIS out, and made sure the two connected aren't touching each other. drove 200 some miles fine until out of the blue (thankfully, again on local streets, and accelerating from a stop) the car dies.

i had extra fuses with me this time, so i replaced the EFI fuse again. i get back in my car, engine turns, starts, and as soon as i gas, dies.

replaced the fuse again, i did what the manual suggests in the event of a flooded engine, held the gas pedal to start the car. the engine roared, and i mean roar, when it started. and now, i'm home, planning on going back to the CP-e customizer box and replace the scotchloks with solder.

i can't find anything wrong under the hood, nothing loose. i can't get the fuses boxes off so i haven't checked underneath the box...i pulled out each fuse to make sure nothing else was blown. my car has gone through 4 EFI fuses this week.

how do i know if a fuel pump has gone bad? and while driving, am i supposed to be able to hear the fuel pump?

73sport · 09-13-2010, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darchrow Enigma

i got the car back from the shop. mechanic said there was a blown fuse (a blue #15) and that once he replaced it..the engine started again.

well, great, i drove it away and about 15 minutes of driving later, engine dies on me. this time i didn't hear weird noises, nothing out of the ordinary except that my car was accelerating significantly faster than before.

this time i checked all the blue fuses, found two, both are fine...could barely see into the other fuses. should i get a larger fuse to replace the broken one (if i find it) or just leave my car on top of rail tracks?

You might ignore the color and look to the description and #value#. Beyond that, I'd pull each and every one of them related to power and engine and see what you find. Don't forget the left hand coin holder inside the cabin, tho I'm not sure what engine management fuses reside there.

Is this what you have? http://www.streetunit.com/CPE_MAFci_...sa3.3mafci.htm