3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
i would appreciate any help i jst put the pistons on ,on my 93 camry 2.2 4 banger and when i start to torque the nuts im not able to trn the crankshaft at all i broke a few extensions already so not that im not putting enough force im completly clueless??
I had my engine sitting with the plugs out for a week and also could not turn the crank...broke my socket wrench also. Try putting a few milliliters of engine oil down each plug hole...run the starter for a few seconds and try turning the crank again...worked like a charm for me.
i took the the engine apart the block is still in the car and i started by putting the piston in first new ring and new bearing i oiled up the rings and the cylinder walls but not the bearings cause the book told me not to but once i even try to torque the the first bearing nut the crank wont budge could it be i got the wrong bearigs?what are the chances of the auto part giving me the wrong onesim clueless and i was left demoralize with this situation.the bearings look like the fit like a charm
i took the the engine apart yhe block is still in yhe car and i started by putting the piston in first new ring and new bearing i oiled up the rings and the cylinder walls but not the bearings cause the book told me not to put once i even try to torque the the first bearing nut the crank wont budge could it be i got the wrong bearigs?what are the chances of the auto part giving me the wrong onesim clueless and i was left demoralize with this situation.the bearings look like the fit like a charm
Unbolt the piston, and remove it from the engine. With no pistons in the engine the crankk should move easily. If you install the piston, and torque it down, and it doesn't move, then your bearings are probably the wrong size.
A much easier way, and more accurate way is to measure the crank. Then with the pistons out of the engine, insert the bearings in the pistons, torque the bolts and then measure the diamater of the hole. It should be .002-.003 larger than the crank, or whatever the specs for you engine are. Digital micrometers are under $20.00 and will eliminate any guesswork. Don't assume that if you measure one journal that they are all the same. Measure each one, and you might have to match up the bearings to the crank dimensions if they vary from one journal to the other. If the crank were sent to a machine shop, this wouldn't be necessary since they would turn all the journals to the same dimensions. But they might be different, so check each one.
Another way is to get some Plastiguage and insert the piston back in the engine, install the rod bearings, torque them down, remove the bottom cap and then measure the Plastiguage. It is a foolproof way to see what the clearances are, or aren't.
You did use a piston ring compressor and the piston did slide freely in the bore? Obviously enough that you had it connected to the cranks rod throw? yes!
Was the piston and rod facing the proper orientation? Front of block ect. . .
If you loosen the connecting rod bearing caps to "just snug" does it allow the crank to move? (Only done with oil on the bearings shell!!!!)
The book likely said to assembly bearing "dry" just so you could use plastigage and determine the clearance. NEVER TURN DRY BEARING by rotating the crankshaft.
This is a critical Statement! Head the warning!
"Don't assume that if you measure one journal that they are all the same. Measure each one, and you might have to match up the bearings to the crank dimensions if they vary from one journal to the other."
Note: with each additional piston installation, the load of the new rings (does it have new rings?) will increase the crankshafts rotational resistance to move from a stop and continue in motion.
Checking things like bearing clearance is best done without the rings installed!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
are u saying to lub. the new bearing ???they have to be hand tighten for it to turn once i star to torque it ,it wont budgeeverything else is correct to the best of my knowledge.
When it comes to re-building and engine, you have to go by the book, period. It's not like changing a radiator hose. The tolerances are in thousands of an inch, and if you are off by a couple of thousands on any of them, you motor is toast.
Pistons and rods have orientations, that is, they go in only one way. And in addition to the orientation, the order is equally important. Rod caps need to be marked as to which rod they came from, and which way they were bolted to the rods.
The groove in the pistons needs to be matched to the rings, each has it's own tolerance. The end of the rings need to be ground to match the specifications called for to fit each cylinder. If the rings are too tight the piston will seize. If they are too loose, you will burn oil, and your performance will suffer. The rings need to be at a specific orientation, some are 60 degrees from each other, but it varies.
Each and every part you are replacing has to be measured, and compared to the specifications called for in the manual. There can be no variance from the specifications. If it calls for .002, that's what it means, not .001, or .003. It means .002. It doesn't matter where the parts came from or what the brand of parts are. Every one of them has to be measured and compared to the specifications, and adjustments must be made to bring each and every part up to spec.
Failure to do this will result in an engine failure. Maybe it will only last 10 minutes, maybe 10 miles, but your engine will not last very long unless you pay very strict attention to detail, at every step of re-assembly.
When it comes to re-building and engine, you have to go by the book, period. It's not like changing a radiator hose. The tolerances are in thousands of an inch, and if you are off by a couple of thousands on any of them, you motor is toast.
Pistons and rods have orientations, that is, they go in only one way. And in addition to the orientation, the order is equally important. Rod caps need to be marked as to which rod they came from, and which way they were bolted to the rods.
The groove in the pistons needs to be matched to the rings, each has it's own tolerance. The end of the rings need to be ground to match the specifications called for to fit each cylinder. If the rings are too tight the piston will seize. If they are too loose, you will burn oil, and your performance will suffer. The rings need to be at a specific orientation, some are 60 degrees from each other, but it varies.
Each and every part you are replacing has to be measured, and compared to the specifications called for in the manual. There can be no variance from the specifications. If it calls for .002, that's what it means, not .001, or .003. It means .002. It doesn't matter where the parts came from or what the brand of parts are. Every one of them has to be measured and compared to the specifications, and adjustments must be made to bring each and every part up to spec.
Failure to do this will result in an engine failure. Maybe it will only last 10 minutes, maybe 10 miles, but your engine will not last very long unless you pay very strict attention to detail, at every step of re-assembly.
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You are On the Ball Today! . . . Well Said!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
i agree there is only one way to do it the right way i will check for clearance but is there any other possobilities other than the wrong bearings and if they are how do i gert the right one
i underderstood i was just double checking if i was supoose to lub. it once it was ready after i checked the clearance .would that keep it fom turning??and if i they are the wrong bearing size how do i get the right ones
i agree there is only one way to do it the right way i will check for clearance but is there any other possobilities other than the wrong bearings and if they are how do i gert the right one
You have to know the actual diameter of the crankshafts rod journal to select the proper bearing. This is of little value tho if the rod which holds the bearing does not meet the factory specification.
Without an internal and an external mic to measure each of the parts you will not know this information. The old rod bearings were marked on the outer shell with a number indicating their size. Were they all the same. Did you keep the "halves together", do you know which cylinder bores they came from?
If they are all the same, that would be good to know. If they all differ, you may be in trouble and will need some measuring tools to figure out which is which.
Why are you replacing the bearings? Are you replacing the main bearings? If the rods are replaced and the mains are LOOSE, the mains may leak out the needed oil that should have fed the rods and burn up your new rod bearings.
You really need to slow down and figure all of this out or you could suffer a money, time, and material loss by damaging the engine you have.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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