lights dim a bit when using e.g. power windows

[fenixus]

hey guys,

i actually never tried to solve this issue on my '00 solara 5s-fe. for a long time i thought it's either a weak battery or electrical system design... now i'm thinking maybe it's the alternator ?
i don't see such behavior on my 1mz-fe solara.

in short, with new Duralast Gold battery issue was pretty much almost gone (never completely) for a few years, now seems coming back as battery gets old (4 years now i think).

alternator or battery is the actual culprit ?

also since like 6 months i noticed car takes a little longer crank to start up, maybe 0.5sec more (cold) than it used to with new strong battery. also it no longer starts with a touch of ignition when warm (used to like 2 years ago).


any hints please?

thanks!

[paperbanjo]

I'm gonna go with older battery.

All not-new cars I've had have had the same issue (not sure on the start up, but with lights dimming with use of other power such as windows).. both my Camry and Avalon do this now. (Also, if I'm rolling up a window in addition to the front driver side, the windows roll up very slowly..) I can't recall what battery is in the Avalon but the Camry has some POS Wal-Mart battery that I'm planning to replace.. I'm hoping that fixes the issue. Everything gets noticeably dim.. headlights, dome light, dash, radio.. sadly this also happens for a very split second when I step on the brake.. So my problem might be a bit different and more electrical/short related.

[fenixus]

yeah, i think you are right. well my battery is still under warranty, but there is nothing wrong with it except for the fact that it holds a tad lower charge now with engine shut off. it used to be over 12V and now it is usually between 11-12V - i think this impacts the cranking time.

as per lights dimming a bit when using power devices like power windows ... not sure ... battery too causing it even when alternator is running ?

[73sport]

Hmm. . .

Its many factors. DC motors draw a huge amount of current. Add to that the age of all the components especially the window tracks which are aging and drying, the regulator have displaced most of the grease from there tracks, the relay contacts are burning/oxidizing ect creating current loss, and the motor itself with the mechanical gear reduction is drawing more current than it did new.

Hint; our Mad Chemist projektvertx recently re-greased the runners and regulators and restored the speed to his aging system.

As for the rest of the system, the same thing applies. As contacts, terminal blocks, and connectors age, they build up resistance which is dropped acrossed those connections (fuses, fuse connectors, relay contacts ect) so not all of the energy is delivered to the intended source.

What I'm trying to say is I doubt you'll nail this down to one easy source like the battery and battery posts. . . So you can replace the battery but don't hold your breath.

As for cars that start instantly, look to the fuel system and FUEL itself. How much methanol was in the old gas? How quickly did the system build pressure to fire a clean mist of fuel to the cylinders? Its likely other things coupled with the slower cranking speed that keep it from doing turn key starts. . . .

So the question is, does it jeopardize the system enough to do anything about it and is it worth the time and expense?

Hint; where my car gets parked the sun often rises and sets baking the passenger side more often than the drivers side, plus I roll those windows down more often than the drivers side. Go figure both are a tad slower than the drivers side.

Take it with a grain a salt and do what you think is best. . .

[73sport]

Originally Posted by fenixus

yeah, i think you are right. well my battery is still under warranty, but there is nothing wrong with it except for the fact that it holds a tad lower charge now with engine shut off. it used to be over 12V and now it is usually between 11-12V - i think this impacts the cranking time.

as per lights dimming a bit when using power devices like power windows ... not sure ... battery too causing it even when alternator is running ?

11 & 12??? That's not good. Either its not getting charged all the way OR it has a constant drain.

I'd disconnect one leg of the batter and place an amp meter in series it. I bet you have some kind of drain that you need to isolate by pulling fuses until you see it drop under a few milliamps.


Suppose a volt meter would give you an idea as you pull fuses. Amps are better tho!

[fenixus]

I agree 73sport, it's completely not worth it to pursue the search of root cause(s) as everything works

it's just a slight annoyance (per dimming lights) ...

for now, i'm done with investing money into '00 5s-fe so I think I will just try opening the battery flaps on top and pouring some more distilled water into it.
if it doesn't help then I will *think* about replacing the battery probably after winter, this one is still good enough.

how do you test the alternator on car to see if it provides enough power to battery ? can it be done with a multimeter or some special testing equipment is required ?

I am also thinking (per cranking time) about fuel pump pressure buildup ... may need to finally test it at the fuel filter ...

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by 73sport

11 & 12??? That's not good. Either its not getting charged all the way OR it has a constant drain.

I'd disconnect one leg of the batter and place an amp meter in series it. I bet you have some kind of drain that you need to isolate by pulling fuses until you see it drop under a few milliamps.


Suppose a volt meter would give you an idea as you pull fuses. Amps are better tho!

I think those numbers I posted were taken still when I was using HIDs (they draw hell lot of power), so I may need to take it back and re-test again as now HIDs are gone and I'm back to halogens on this car.

[73sport]

You need to have it tested at shop with a portable load.

All accessories on is a good load but we don't know exactly how much???

Disconnect the battery and see if it gains voltage in a positive direction over a couple hour span. That'll tell you in a nutshell if the car is killing the battery. Remember, temp plays a big role too.

[carsrus]

Its normal. My Camry has done this forever with new and old batteries.

Its nothing to look into. If your getting 13-14V with engine on your good.

[fenixus]

ahhh, ok then, i guess it's a 5s-fe model feature
i will check bat voltage on running engine later on, need to eat something first finally ...

[fenixus]

OK, just checked my both yotas and I guess i'm all good!

a) '00 solara 5s-fe with Duralast Gold battery (4yr old)
-engine shut (and cold for 3 days), voltmeter reads 12.80V
-engine started, voltmeter reads 14.80V initially then as engine speed normalizes it settles at 14.60V !!! <-- now this is the difference when i don't have HIDs anymore hehe
-same as above, but all accessories turned on, voltmeter reads 14.57V

b) '02 solara 1mz-fe with Autocraft Gold battery (4mo old)
-engine shut (and warm), voltmeter reads 12.40V
-engine started, voltmeter reads 14.00V
-same as above, but all accessories turned on, voltmeter reads 13.97V

all good here ?

on a side note, still 5s-fe has this lights dimming effect when i use power windows. while 1mz-fe doesn't do that.

[pmesfun]

I have that same problem on my Avalon, it also dims when I press the break pedal. The lights get brighter as RPMs increase. Thinking it could be that the alternator brush is worn out?

[fenixus]

i am not sure on what's causing it ... i don't see much change of lighting brightness with RPM change, so maybe in your case it's the alternator ?

in my case it's possible that window tracks are dirty or worn and pwoer window motor struggles to push it up/down ? not sure ... not really a problem, just a minor annoyance, i'm leaving it like it is.

after second thoughts cranking speed of 5s-fe is still good, took it only 1sec to start up from dead cold engine. however warm start takes longer a tad now than in past (1mz-fe starts from a touch of ignition when warm) ... maybe it's really the time for fuel pressure testing ?

still got some 5s-fe fuel trim problem tracking to solve haha ... if that ever ends ...

[pmesfun]

Yeah, it probably is, btw my aunt's solara takes the same amount of time to crank cold or hot. Just some info for you.

[Zembonez]

Battery is getting tired...