Overhual List...need input

[bigbird]

Ok, so as yall know i have been tossing around the need to fix/replace my ride. as most of us know, these cars are cheap/easy to fix and extreamly reliable. i was not kidding when considering dumping a lot of money into getting this car in near new condition. however, to be sure it is the better choice financialy, i need to assemble a list of things and prices to fix. prices i can handle but i need input from thoes who have repaired more then i to halp me with my list.

engine: what all should be replaced? im thinking seals, gaskets, rings, a heavy cleaning and the obvious timing belt and water pump OR should i look at just buying a rebuilt motor?

tranny: what all can or would be worth replacing? most of the time i have herd a straight up rebuilt is the way to go...opinions?

suspension: im thinking nearly ALL bushings front and back, anything else?

anything else i should consider like brake or fuel lines?

thanks for any advice yall have.

[carsrus]

Originally Posted by bigbird

Ok, so as yall know i have been tossing around the need to fix/replace my ride. as most of us know, these cars are cheap/easy to fix and extreamly reliable. i was not kidding when considering dumping a lot of money into getting this car in near new condition. however, to be sure it is the better choice financialy, i need to assemble a list of things and prices to fix. prices i can handle but i need input from thoes who have repaired more then i to halp me with my list.

engine: what all should be replaced? im thinking seals, gaskets, rings, a heavy cleaning and the obvious timing belt and water pump OR should i look at just buying a rebuilt motor?

I wouldn't buy a rebuilt engine since you have no idea wtf its been through. If you want to you could just disassemble/clean and put it all back together. Maybe hone the cylinders a tad and put slightly oversized rings and bearings all around. Wont really do much.

Trans I would say rebuild, but if its ok I would probably just leave it.

If your brake and fuel lines are rusty they should definitely be replaced PROPERLY. No compression fitting junk since that's just dangerous.

But if its running fine I would probally just leave the trans and engine alone untill something catastrophic fails. Dont fix it if it aint broke.

I know your boosting but have you built the engine and trans at all? If not I would just collect parts and $$$ to beef the drivetrain up. Build a meaty trans and a beefed up engine and boost away all day.

Suspension parts are prety cheap so I would jsut change just about anything reasonable. New tie rods/ball joints/ all that good front end stuff will help revive the steering alot.

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by bigbird

engine: what all should be replaced? im thinking seals, gaskets, rings, a heavy cleaning and the obvious timing belt and water pump OR should i look at just buying a rebuilt motor?

Seals, gaskets, heavy cleaning, water pump, new piston rings, clean the head and check valve clearances. Why waste your time buying a rebuilt one when you can tinker with yours? Idea: see what goes into making a rebuilt 1mz, and then do all that to yours. Call around.

edit: Get your s/c reconditioned too. AND GET TUNED!

Originally Posted by bigbird

tranny: what all can or would be worth replacing? most of the time i have herd a straight up rebuilt is the way to go...opinions?

Remember that red minivan I drove? That went through 3 used trannys before we junked it. Buy rebuilt or get yours done. Call me if you want more on that story. I don't know much about tranny rebuilds... maybe a "new" manual one is a good idea.

Originally Posted by bigbird

suspension: im thinking nearly ALL bushings front and back, anything else?

I think's about it. You have newish coilovers. Should be okay.

Originally Posted by bigbird

anything else i should consider like brake or fuel lines?

New fuel filter. Otherwise, probably just a visual inspection of those parts would be okay.

[eyeball96]

SS brake lines!

...and maybe a pair of these!

http://www.partstrain.com/store/inde...=Control%20Arm

.....or a least the bushings

[ecms171]

If your comfy with pulling apart an engine, i would do a head gasket kit and rear main seal as well, new rings and hone the cylinder, and if your got some forged internal you could run more boost, but they are expensive. New valves and a tune would go a long way. Hypothetically suspension is designed to be replaced as often as your tyres even though noone does, a new set of bushing. Swapping in a manual trans of a wrecked car. Buy the same model thats been rear ended and is manual, and tear that to shreds, part it out and sell what you dont need, which if its low km should help the budget and get the inside back up to date.

Thats roughly what i want to do. Considering forged internals and new valves and valve springs.... New bushings... give the whole car a revamp by tearing apart a low km wrecker.

[jtex2717]

I would try to go Poly with all your bushings just so you have a more solid setup...replace everything that you can think of...egr, all gaskets/seals/o-rings, all new brake and fuel lines w/ ss lines at the wheels, re-machine your head, hone cylinders, def rebuild or re-new parts in your trans especially if yours has lasted you this long without faliure...imagine what brand new internals will do for you...just basically think about what can go wrong...and try to start replacing things section by section...everything from t-stat to vacuum valves....

[Chris Crash]

If you're on stock brake lines...change 'em. Just in case. I wouldn't buy a new engine, I would just rebuild your own.
Definitely rebuild the trans since it'll be coming out anyway.

[Creeps228]

Engine:
-Buy an OEM Overhauling Gasket kit; I was told it brings every gaskets/seal that needs to be replaced
-GO BIG OR GO HOME RIGHT?! Gabes Poly Engine mounts
-Adams Torque Rod
-New piston and oil rings
-Check valve lash and bring them up to spec
-Since it'll be out, a deep clean, make it nice and shiny, don't forget your engine bay
-Decked(?) Honed (? but only if the walls have deep scratches for a foreign object in the cylinders
-New Oil Pump, Water pump, Spark plugs, Belt (Obvious)
-New Coils(?)
-Proflow Design Overbored TB
Tranny
-I believe you did get a 5 speed swap from Gabe, umm get it rebuilt and if financial able drop an LSD in there
-Supercharger oil/inspection
-New Headbolts, ours are torque to yield so the old bolts wont be reused
-Lighter Flywheel
Suspension
-New Bushings (polyurethane) Energy Suspension or another brand Adam and Gabe use(PM them for proper brand name) Front and Rear
-Strut mounts, etc.
-End links (maybe), Rear suspension arms (maybe I'm replacing mine since, in order to adjust my rear alignment it has to be torched every time), Rear/Front Sway Bars
-Wheel bearings! (Jack wheel off the floor, and push wheel gently from left to right or lift/lower the wheel and if you feel that there excessive play meaning its fairly easy to move your one wheel with out affecting the other, new bearings are needed; more than likely you should get new bearings they might need to be changed)
Brakes
You've already upgraded to the TT Supra's up front, and you do have SS Brake Lines umm EBC Pads (Green/Red Stuff fyi: Red Stuff great stopping power/ lots of brake dust)
-Brake Flush; lines, calipers, master cylinder; get some new oil in there;include ABS
Other fluids
-Flush power steering, be nice and have some new oil in there
-Flush radiator

Am I missing anything?

[bigbird]

thanks for the replies guys. the engine is up in the air because its a DD and my only car so if i work on the engine, it would be easier if i has a spare one that i planned to swap in, which may be the right idea. no rebuilt one, just get one used then rebuild it myself.

i sold my manny swap Kelvin, it jsut wasnt worth since i still had a sizable amount of parts to buy and as a dd, drivability has to be as present as enjoyability. i love manual, but not in md traffic every day. i think i will stick with an auto and rebuild untill it is no longer a DD.

thanks for the links to thoes control arms Joe, that may come in handy.

[jtex2717]

Originally Posted by bigbird

i think i will stick with an auto and rebuild untill it is no longer a DD.

....you....have....an....auto....

I always thought u had a manny...

I guess if it works for you...

I think you should just get a donor car w/ a 5spd and unlock that S/Cs real power...

I def understand the traffic part though...

[N/A Camry Sleeper]

Originally Posted by bigbird

Ok, so as yall know i have been tossing around the need to fix/replace my ride. as most of us know, these cars are cheap/easy to fix and extreamly reliable. i was not kidding when considering dumping a lot of money into getting this car in near new condition. however, to be sure it is the better choice financialy, i need to assemble a list of things and prices to fix. prices i can handle but i need input from thoes who have repaired more then i to halp me with my list.

engine: what all should be replaced? im thinking seals, gaskets, rings, a heavy cleaning and the obvious timing belt and water pump OR should i look at just buying a rebuilt motor?

tranny: what all can or would be worth replacing? most of the time i have herd a straight up rebuilt is the way to go...opinions?

suspension: im thinking nearly ALL bushings front and back, anything else?

anything else i should consider like brake or fuel lines?

thanks for any advice yall have.

I don't know what kind of intake mainfold you have - stock or custom - but have you considered extrude honing? I had this done on my 5S intake manifold and the results were good at higher RPMS. With a s/c motor, along with the larger 3.0L displacement of your motor, you would REALLY notice a big difference! Larger displacement motors benefit moreso than smaller ones with this process - the difference is MORE pronounced with boost or with a supercharger. Tuning for the higher airflow will help throughout the RPM range.

The only drawback to this process is cost: I paid $600 for this last year, and it took about 3 weeks to get my part back. But nothing will substitute for smoothing out airflow in areas where you can't get a Dremel or where you can't see...Food for thought

[bigbird]

its a replacement manifold built by Kazuma (sold by TRD). its not all that great for us since FI creates positive pressure in the induction system anyways removing part of the need to create higher flow. yes, it helps some, especially for the guys on higher boost, but as modestly modded daily driver it wouldnt be worth the money.

Originally Posted by jtex2717

....you....have....an....auto....

I always thought u had a manny...

I guess if it works for you...

I think you should just get a donor car w/ a 5spd and unlock that S/Cs real power...

I def understand the traffic part though...

well ive never implied it was so not sure where ya got that. the coupe V6 never came in a manual so ive had to make due. i had a swap i was putting together but sold it because of the cost for the extra parts and the fact that it was a DD i didnt want to be a manual. if/when i get another ride, if this stays with me, it will be swapped then. for now, the S/C makes the car more than fun enough for my daily grind. not to mention the SE has a smaller final drive and tighter steering which you cant get in other models.

its funny, when i was looking at cars many years back i was torn between this car and a 5 speed 5sfe coupe. i decided id rather live with the auto then the 5sfe.

[Creeps228]

hey the 5sfe is fun to...well in my eyes..my 5s is kicking balls left and right; in my eyes anyway but when it lacks in power high end i always wish i hear the spool of a turbo but soon my dreams might come true.

Rob do what i plan on doing. Keep it as is. If you have money to buy some parts go ahead and buy them but dont install it. Collect until you have everything. Once tax season comes, buy a cheap auto something that runs but isn't going to die anytime soon and work on the camry. This is my plan, im going to save up pay everyone i owe off and then work on my car; with my income tax money buy something good to drive around, looking on getting an audi quattro and have the camry on jack stands doing everything i wanted to it

[jtex2717]

Originally Posted by bigbird

its a replacement manifold built by Kazuma (sold by TRD). its not all that great for us since FI creates positive pressure in the induction system anyways removing part of the need to create higher flow. yes, it helps some, especially for the guys on higher boost, but as modestly modded daily driver it wouldnt be worth the money.



well ive never implied it was so not sure where ya got that. the coupe V6 never came in a manual so ive had to make due. i had a swap i was putting together but sold it because of the cost for the extra parts and the fact that it was a DD i didnt want to be a manual. if/when i get another ride, if this stays with me, it will be swapped then. for now, the S/C makes the car more than fun enough for my daily grind. not to mention the SE has a smaller final drive and tighter steering which you cant get in other models.

its funny, when i was looking at cars many years back i was torn between this car and a 5 speed 5sfe coupe. i decided id rather live with the auto then the 5sfe.

Yeah I guess youre right...I guess its bcuz I never see you talk about your tranny...lol...

You should build a kick ass auto-x tranny and smoke everyone...lol that would def be worth the money!

How much more performance do you really get out of the SE? I mean is it even worth it to do a steering swap? Or is it just minimal?

[bigbird]

this car would really make a terrible auto-x car. it may suprise some people (and some do), but you cant get the real joy of auto-x in a car like this. ive auto-xed in a miata and a GTI VR6 and BOTH were better in their near stock forms then my car could be with 5 grand invented into the suspension. i may love my car, but i love it for waht it is, and what ive made it. not what i want it to be.

as far as parts that have stayed, the tranny ive never really tested. on paper it is the faster of the gen3&4 V6 autos (including es due to weight) but i never tried a race OR have seen any data to prove that.

the steering is tighter, now its still a camry, and its ol. so its an improvement but in improvement on what it was. i have owned a gen 3 XLE and a gen4 and the steering is tighter in this. but to me, its not all that tight compared to, oh say, my brothers 00' celica GTS. which is a DREAM to drive in the twisties, even with the slowmatic.