3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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If my temp sensor switch on my 1998 Toyota camry is bad. What would it make the car do?, Would it make the gauge read wrong? could the car really be cooler/hotter then it shows?
If my temp sensor switch on my 1998 Toyota camry is bad. What would it make the car do?, Would it make the gauge read wrong? could the car really be cooler/hotter then it shows?
Which temp sensor are you asking about? There's 2 fer the coolant...one that the ECU uses and the other one fer the gauge.
Did you git a Check Engine light and you pulled a code?
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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There are two temp switches, one gauge temp sensor and one ECU temp sensor.
If we are talking about the first two, then they control fans, so, your fans might be constantly on or never kick on (regardless to the temp of the engine), or turning fans on/off can be intermittent. Make sure A/C is off when you check your fans (if A/C is on the fans (or at least one of them) are always on).
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
I got this code PO115 which is Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit But the code reader did not really tell me what Sensor. My guess would be the green one on top of the Eng near the top coolent hose. So If it was the green Sensor what would it make the car do? And what if it was the other one that was bad what would it do? Please give me the diffents. When i turn on the A/C both fans come out if I leave the A/C off untill the Motor gets to the right temp they will come on FAST then go off And another thing is when i'm driving the temp gauge is right at the middle and when i come to a stop it goes up not far but it does go up and the fans are not running at that time. so would this mean then Sensor that tells the gauge how hot it is has gone out? Or is starting to go out?
This one is the ECU coolant temp sensor, and NOT the switch, I believe. What is the engine? Switch failures are not detected by ECU and check engine light would never come up if one of the temp SWITCH failed.
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
You didn't understand. I am saying that the failing part FOR SURE is ECU coolant temp SENSOR. If this would be one of the temp SWITCHES then check engine wouldn't come up.
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
Okay so where is the ECU coolant temp SENSOR at? And what does it make the car do? run hotter? don't tell the fans when to come on? I want replace it and fix it.
The ECT (Engine coolant temperature) sensor is basically a thermistor that changes resistance with temperature. Usually a two wire sensor, a 5Volt reference from PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and ground signal to PCM. This is different from a temperature SENDER (which usually operates the dash temperature gauge and operates in a similar way as the SENSOR, only it's a different circuit than what a P0115 is referring to). As the temperature of the coolant changes, the resistance changes on the ground signal to the PCM. When the engine is cold, the resistance is high. When the engine is warm, the resistance is low. If the PCM detects a voltage condition that seems abnormally low or high, P0115 will set.
Check with ToyotaPartsMan here in the forums...he should be able to beat that price and with better shipping.
Location of the sensor seems to be right off of the upper radiator hose by the valve cover. It should be the 2 wire green sensor in my piccie.
Do you have access to an ODBII scanner/reader? Something like the Ultra-Gauge or a Scangauge II would be able to read that sensor and tell you what the sensor is reading.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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It is the sensor under the green plastic connector in BamZipPow's picture. It sends a signal to the car's computer to tell it what the temperature of the engine is, by means of the temperature of the coolant. It's one of the main components that allows the computer to control the fuel mixture. That sensor is either out of range (most likely) or is disconneted from the system. When out of range, it will make the fuel mixture either too rich or too lean, depending on which way it is out of range. It does not control the fans or the tempeture reading on the dash, nor will it make your car overheat. You can check that sensor for being out of range with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. If you don't have a manual you can download a Toyota factory service manual for free at the top of the Carmy forum over at AutomotiveForums.com. Here is the link: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=497839. Download the generation 4 manual. You will need to check it cold and hot.
Thanks alot...this really helped...But I have a new ? for you would a Engine Oil Cooler help keep the car cooler?
It should...but unless yer running really hot and burning up yer oil during some hot footed racing...I don't think it would be worth the effort on that stock engine.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
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Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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How much work would it be? alot?. Because when I went tho Death Valley the car got really hot!!! I'm always looking for ways to keep my car running cool but besides that,,,I like to go 135MPH alot but when I do the car gets hotter never goes near red but still
How much work would it be? alot?. Because when I went tho Death Valley the car got really hot!!! I'm always looking for ways to keep my car running cool but besides that,,,I like to go 135MPH alot but when I do the car gets hotter never goes near red but still
Well...if yer really set on gitting one, I would point you to www.summitracing.com to git a sandwich type adapter and to go with a stacked plate cooler. Add in a true oil pressure gauge along with an oil temp gauge to round it out. That should give you a good pulse on yer oil. What kinda oil are you running in yer engine now? What's yer oil change interval (OCI)? What kinda of filter are you running?
Are you sure yer cooling system is up to snuff? What engine temps are you running now? I'm talking actual data and not something yer guessing with. What hardware are you using to git that data? ODBII scanner/reader?
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
The Following User Says Thank You to BamZipPow For This Useful Post:
I'm running 5-30 GTX high mileage. I'm 99% sure the cooling system is good, I just rpelace both fans and a new radiator with Red toyota coolent there may be some air in the system but I'm not sure how to get ALL the air out And I'm not sure how hot it really is, Just know it always stays in the middle unltel I come to a stop or I am going 125MPH and when I feel the upper hose, it feels hard is that good? And I only took it to auto zone and let them run a code tester on it...but theres is not that good...I know so what do you think from what I have told you? When i come back to Houston could you maybe help me with the oil cooler? I would pay if you knew
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