1996 Camry 4 cyl Oil Pan replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 09-17-2010, 11:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation 1996 Camry 4 cyl Oil Pan replacement

!996 Camry Oil Pan replacement 5sfe 4 cylinder 2.2 engine
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UPDATE to my question below (and what I learned doing this job):

**There are no bolt holes in the rear end of the pan. You have to remove the rubber piece to get to it. I just tore it off with a screwdriver and didn't replace it.

**I never was able to get the exhaust system bolts loose-even after applying penetrating oil a half dozen times and using a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. and straining my... and I'm not a small person. I took the car to a shop and for a $20 lift fee they put it up on the lift and loosened the nuts with an impact wrench-they did not loosen easily. No way would I have ever gotten them loose with hand tools. I then drove it home and put the car on jack stands and finished the job.

**The part number on the pan I bought is Dorman # 264-305, the exhaust gaskets were Walker # 31374 and #31332. The pan sealant I used was Permatex #81878 ultra-copper (will not harm oxygen sensor) . Amazon was the cheapest place to buy the pan ($70)and the Dorman brand is good quality. Apply the oil pan gasket sealant in the manner shown at the link posted below by AliRazor.

If I was to do this again I'd use a fel-pro gasket instead of the sealant because it was tough getting the pan mounted, as I lay on my back in the driveway with limited clearance, and I smeared the sealant a couple times rubbing it against stuff as I tried to mount it.

USE JACK STANDS AND WHEEL BLOCKS!

Good luck!
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QUESTION: The Dorman brand engine oil pan I ordered does not have any bolt holes in the back end.

My Haynes manual shows an illustration of a pan with two holes in the back flange. The back end of the pan is covered by a piece of rubber so I can't see if there are two pan bolts there.

Can anyone tell me 1) Is this the right pan? 2) what do I do with that rubber "support" to allow me to mount the new pan without scraping off the sealant?

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Old 09-18-2010, 01:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/9307to...03_Oil_Pan.htm
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Old 09-18-2010, 02:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That's helpful. The illustration at that link shows a pan like the new pan I have with the same shape and number of bolt holes. So I feel comfortable pulling the old one off. I'll figure out that "rubber" thing when I get the car up on jackstands where I can see what's going on.
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Just out of curiousity...was your oil pan leaking? Any reason you decided to repalce it?
...and do you know if this is a common problem on these generation camry's? losing oil through a leaking oil pan and oil pan gasket?
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Old 09-18-2010, 11:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Cause of leaking

The cork pan gasket appears to be leaking a tiny bit (they get brittle) but not enough to spot the driveway. I can live with that. A leaking pan gasket is likely a common problem for any car this old with high mileage. The reason I'm changing the pan is that the oil drain plug is stripped out. I recently bought this car with a 164,000 miles on it. It's been well maintained and I'm sure the guy always had a shop do his oil changes. So figure at least 35 oil changes through the years and I'm not surprised to find it stripped. I have one of those expandable rubber plugs in it right now. The only way to fix it is replace the pan. I'm not replacing the pan with a gasket. I'm using Permatex Ultra Copper sealant. Toyota and my Haynes manual specify a sealant. If you replace your pan gasket that link in a response above has an illustration that shows how to apply it. If you prefer a gasket I suggest you check out Fel Pro brand. I think they may make one with sealant.

Last edited by John Drabble; 09-30-2010 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 09-18-2010, 10:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if i remember correctly, there are bolts along the complete perimeter of the pan. the exhaust has to be loosened to remove that black rubber piece.
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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are you positive you have the correct pan? is everything else (shape, bolt pattern) the exact same? where you would need to drill, is it perfectly flat or is there a slight rib/buldge for sealent like i there are between bolt holes on some pans?
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