1996 Camry 4 cyl Oil Pan replacement
!996 Camry Oil Pan replacement 5sfe 4 cylinder 2.2 engine
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UPDATE to my question below (and what I learned doing this job):
**There are no bolt holes in the rear end of the pan. You have to remove the rubber piece to get to it. I just tore it off with a screwdriver and didn't replace it.
**I never was able to get the exhaust system bolts loose-even after applying penetrating oil a half dozen times and using a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. and straining my... and I'm not a small person. I took the car to a shop and for a $20 lift fee they put it up on the lift and loosened the nuts with an impact wrench-they did not loosen easily. No way would I have ever gotten them loose with hand tools. I then drove it home and put the car on jack stands and finished the job.
**The part number on the pan I bought is Dorman # 264-305, the exhaust gaskets were Walker # 31374 and #31332. The pan sealant I used was Permatex #81878 ultra-copper (will not harm oxygen sensor) . Amazon was the cheapest place to buy the pan ($70)and the Dorman brand is good quality. Apply the oil pan gasket sealant in the manner shown at the link posted below by AliRazor.
If I was to do this again I'd use a fel-pro gasket instead of the sealant because it was tough getting the pan mounted, as I lay on my back in the driveway with limited clearance, and I smeared the sealant a couple times rubbing it against stuff as I tried to mount it.
USE JACK STANDS AND WHEEL BLOCKS!
Good luck!
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QUESTION: The Dorman brand engine oil pan I ordered does not have any bolt holes in the back end.
My Haynes manual shows an illustration of a pan with two holes in the back flange. The back end of the pan is covered by a piece of rubber so I can't see if there are two pan bolts there.
Can anyone tell me 1) Is this the right pan? 2) what do I do with that rubber "support" to allow me to mount the new pan without scraping off the sealant?
Last edited by John Drabble; 01-09-2011 at 10:25 PM.
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