3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
can anybody input some opinions on replacement (blank) rotors by both Brembo and Centric for your camry ?
Soon I will be shopping for new aftermarket rotors (02 solara v6) and those two are in same price range and yet Centric gets VERY high 7-10 recommendations/reviews (and a little lower price) on tirerack.com vs avg 6 (in fact ranging from 2-10) for Brembo ?
This Brembo Replacement rotor:
This is Centric Premium rotor:
thanks for opinions.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
I have Brembo rotors and pads on the front and they are great. I might be needing some new rear hardware and I'm considering Brembo as well, no one else
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I am riding on those brembo for about 6 years (on my camry sedan) - I love them. No issues so far, thickness is still in the range, no warping, perfect quality. And you can't go wrong for just $50 per brembo rotor at tirerack.
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
I would still take an EBC sport dimpled/slotted rotor and a set of their pads over Brembo any day of the week. Yes I do agree that you MAY get more mileage out of a set of brembo rotors, but during the life of the rotors I think you will get better results with a harder compound pad (which I don't think the brembo could handle all that well)
For the money, the brembos are cheaper than the EBC rotors (180 for a pair of EBC) but am not sure that being they are "blanks" with no real good venting system that they wouldn't warp quickly if you slap on a ceramic pad with it. I could be wrong...
either way, I'm an EBC brake user for life. Once you have a set that you properly break in, then do a proper bed in procedure...they stop like no other pad...they bite like an absolutely champ...and overall are incredible brakes
I have never heard of Breakmotive rotors ... but my knowledge is very limited
EBC stuff (all) is too expensive for me.
I like the stopping power of Hawk HPS (I have used them with 64k-78k old OEM front rotors on 00 solara 2.2L with great success), but they dust a little too much, so this time will be going with Akebono Street Performance pads (less stopping power than Hawks, but also much less dusting) and new rotors ...
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
be watching this with ALOT of interest. Since I wrecked the Legend due to front impact....with "average" brakes....meaning they 'stopped' the car....but performance....yea right....whatever.....I will never again have a car with 'standard' brakes any longer...I want what my old 88 civic had....brakes that would put you through the front windshield if I stood on em
be watching this with ALOT of interest. Since I wrecked the Legend due to front impact....with "average" brakes....meaning they 'stopped' the car....but performance....yea right....whatever.....I will never again have a car with 'standard' brakes any longer...I want what my old 88 civic had....brakes that would put you through the front windshield if I stood on em
I think something was wrong with your Legend, I've driven that car before and it stops like a fat kid for twinkie... Hondas have REAL brakes, not like Toyota, who can't make proper brakes and a good turning radius if their lives depended on it
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I think something was wrong with your Legend, I've driven that car before and it stops like a fat kid for twinkie... Hondas have REAL brakes, not like Toyota, who can't make proper brakes and a good turning radius if their lives depended on it
Thanks....but the Gen1 (86-90) the brakes were called 'adequate'...I was doing 30mph and saw said Jeep....wasted my whole nose while Jeep got a lil scratch in bumper. My Gen2 (91-95) I can say had a some 'better' brakes, but I would hardly say they were great....and I am a Legend fan...just listed part to remove and replace immediately for me now...like I posted earlier....my 88 Civic would put you through thru glass.
Thanks....but the Gen1 (86-90) the brakes were called 'adequate'...I was doing 30mph and saw said Jeep....wasted my whole nose while Jeep got a lil scratch in bumper. My Gen2 (91-95) I can say had a some 'better' brakes, but I would hardly say they were great....and I am a Legend fan...just listed part to remove and replace immediately for me now...like I posted earlier....my 88 Civic would put you through thru glass.
Well I guess it depends on your perception and what you are used to Sorry to hear that it got hit though, I like Legends and RLs... I found a '94 Legend coupe awhile back. I would have bought but the trans was in bad shape on the car and it was overpriced.
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
Well I guess it depends on your perception and what you are used to Sorry to hear that it got hit though, I like Legends and RLs... I found a '94 Legend coupe awhile back. I would have bought but the trans was in bad shape on the car and it was overpriced.
thanks....I prefer the G2 cars...but I am planning on when getting another one....first thing to go...engine/trans....right in the trash. Gonna 3.5L RL hybrid swap it....takes care of the BHG issue instantly...the c32a for some reason is prone to those.....really sucks. I want the typeII so I get the better intake and some other parts that will be swapped on the c35a.
It was my G1 (87) that got hit...unsure what I am gonna do with it right now. Prolly scrap it. not worth the repairs it needs....AC out, the steering is weirded out (replaced a leaking hose and ever since its VERY stiff to turn...bled it and problem remains and there is no leak after replacement)....various missing pieces...like top half of a window button, the main relay (another common problem area) has been soldered at least 4 times...gets old...tint needs replaced, some other motor derived things need attention...just a old car....it was DECENTLY well taken care of....for the rice I paid ($800) it was excellent....LOOKED a bunch better than the Camry....but the Cam is a better runner so far (and I opened my hood for the 4th time since I bought it....only fluid it low on was steering...added and that whine is gone...will investigate further later)
The Cam was bought to originally be a replacement DD...but it somehow endeared itself to me and I am finding me wanting to clean her up, make her a lil better piece of machinery.
only thing I really plan on farming out is the bodywork only....I am not good with that aspect and I know it and I avoid that stuff...paint, engine, interior, electrical...anything else I can handle with relative ease.
I'm just saying if you're by any means hard on your brakes, I would say blank rotors are junk. Look at it this way, if everything were identical in a perfect world and you drive your car very hard...you're constantly hard on your brakes while "moving" and all the sudden you have to slam on your brakes for an upcoming traffic light (or you can just run the red :P...jk). anyhow when you come to a full stop on HOT rotors, most average people don't realize but they will sit there with a brake pad on a super hot rotor surface. At the very least atleast with a cross-drilled/slotted rotor you have a chance at not warping them since you can have the gases and heat escape through the drills and slots. I would still take a mediocre drilled/slotted rotor over a blank performance rotor any day of the week..
BTW what is it with all you guys whining about poor brakes on camry's? I have two of them and honestly they are quite good at stopping. I even find the drums in the back to a pretty good job considering they are only drum brakes. Bottom line..I'll put anyone too the test in stopping power against my 96 beige camry...with ebc's on the fronts and a good set of shoes on the back, I stop better than 95% of people with stock rotors who have disc brakes in the rears too ..I'm fine with that
to add my 2 cents, on my 00 solara 2.2L (rear drums) brakes are unreal since i installed Hawk HPS pads in fronts, flushed the brake fluid and adjusted rear drums - note i didn't even resurfaced the front OEM rotors at 64k. this thing stops on a dime now
... unfortunately can't say that (yet) about my 02 solara 3.0L with rear discs ... I need to flush the brake fluid finally (always have no time for that) as the one inside looks ... original? some brownish junk.
drilled/slotted rotors are kinda ... too expensive for me ... unless i take ATE PremiumOne Slotted Rotor at around $71 fronts and $64 rears ... that's not bad price for something with slots. drilled ones are out of question ... waaay tooo expensive.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
drilled/slotted rotors are kinda ... too expensive for me ... unless i take ATE PremiumOne Slotted Rotor at around $71 fronts and $64 rears ... that's not bad price for something with slots. drilled ones are out of question ... waaay tooo expensive.
is this a good enough reason to not get drilled/slotted for a street driven car?
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