3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi, i have 97 camry 4 cyl xle, it has around 128k, i think i am 3rd owner or so, i dont know but recently I found my car shift gear at very high RPM (3-4k), (i have 95 carmy it has also same problem) solution to it was i can off the pedal momentarily and RPM goes down and it shifts fine, so i droped the tranny pan - changed the tranny filter and tranny oil, oil was near to black, but no big metal particle to magnet, few very fine, cleaned all and put it back, added dextron-III , same problem continue on top of that once in a while it slip especially 3-2 or so, as this replace small portion of total tranny fluide so yesterday again i dropped the tranny pan, no metal particle to magnet, oil a bit brown, but rest fine, connected everything, this time added lucas tranny oil too along with DEXT III, new problem started, when i put in D, its very slow to take the first gear and on second gear shift a small jerk, but then all shift fine, reverse also same problem, very slowly it engage the gear, if i come to compelete stop and start then same thing, very slowly it engage the first gear, any help really appreciated, not in a position to get rebuid tranny or another car, any temporary fix also be fine, is it due to any vaccume line leak
Last edited by mn_subscribe; 09-19-2010 at 03:53 PM.
Nothing in a bottle will repair a worn out poorly maintained transmission.
Do another drain/refill. This will remove some of the Lucas snot which simply bumps the viscosity up a couple points.
Use Valvoline Maxlife or Castrol High Mileage ATF.
To make sure your diff isn't binding, it has its own drain/refill plugs and should also be maintained. Use a synthetic ATF for the differential since you'll probably never change it again. On a budget, use Mercon-V for the differential as it is usually a synth-blend & cheaper than Mobil1/Amsoil/Redline/Royalpurple. Mercon-V is considerably better than DexronIII.
Drive gently as a worn out transmission is a ticking time bomb.
4-5 drain/refills is equivalent to a full flush. Pick "1" quality ATF, don't use any bottled additives, and drain/refill at every oil change until you performed the 5. This will remove out any additives over time and constantly refresh the fluid until all of it has been replaced.
Weak engines require RPM to keep accelerating. The 2.2 has 130hp and the Camry weighs 3000lbs+. So, a 3-4k rpm shift point is 'normal' depending on your driving style.
Give the engine a good tuneup to squeeze out every last horsepower. New air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, couple bottles of FI cleaner, change PSF, thermostat, coolant, 35psi tire pressure, good alignment.... might free up a couple horsepower.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
I know what autorx is. I've seen the patent formula and understand it. Its NOT needed for ANYTHING ever in a transmission.
And, if you must feel the need to add an additive, use Lubegard red. Its doesn't require removal and can be left in service for the life of the fluid.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Wow...my A140E shifts way better than that. 1st gear shifts at 1.5-2K RPM, out of 2nd into 3rd at 2k or less, and 3-4th occurs somewhere around 2k. I have 169k on the original 2.2 and transmission, sometimes you won't ever feel it shift, either through the gears, and in and out of all gear ranges. But mine is well maintained, and so is the differential. I use Dexron IV in both, and they get a drain and refill once a year, regardless of mileage. And I baby the car, maybe too much. I rarely exceed 55MPH most of the time. I have very little sludge on the magnets, hardly any buildup in the pan either. I believe it will last the same as the engine, so I expect to rack at least 300K.
today I did tranny oil change and it look good, problem not completely solved but can say improvement, more will come to know tomorrow when i drive 15-20 miles
more update, added sea foam for tranny and it really worked, drove around 5 mile and then flush, problem reduced, next day again flush and now bye bye to that slow engage problem, on top initially when i did flush it was taking 1.5 qt for every flush but after sea foam use last time it took 2.5 qt and flush was really a dark brown, means more things came out which it didnt with normal flush, again thinking of doing sea foam one more time but now here its cold so will check temperature and again do the flush, thanks too all for support......
When you say flush, do you just mean pulling the drain plug?
A flush requires 12+ quarts and usually requires the cooler line method.
Pulling the drain plug is just a drain/refill of the pan.
Seafoam is a solvent/alcohol mix. It'll drop your viscosity a lot. It should make up for Lucas snot in the transmission.
Now you have a mix of God knows what in your transmission. You should never use additives in your transmission. And, you should never mix additives. I've seen competing products that were mixed together, form weird waxy/bubblegum like materials. If I were you, I'd consider mixing a couple ounces of Seafoam with Lucas and some ATF. Heat and see what happens. If nothing happens, then nothing to worry about.
I think that the only reason you got more out was that thinner fluid pours easier and that you were overfilled by the Seafoam amount. Lucas makes fluid sticky/tacky and is slower to drain down or drip. Seafoam solvent would make stuff flow again.
If that was my tranny, I'd grab 12 quarts of ATF and perform a cooler line flush to remove as much of your chemistry project from that transmission. And, quit using ATF additives.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Last edited by deadrx7conv; 09-25-2010 at 10:07 PM.
If you used the motor treatment in the transmission, technical specs don't mention what will happen in yer transmission. Hope you didn't kill yer transmission...or what's left of it.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Seafoam transtune is identical to motor treatment. Same product different label. Marketing at its best!
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Hi, I used the sea foam for tranny
its around 1 ounce bottle but i used half or something more, after seam foam i did twice tranny oil change and now it is running fine as what it was earlier (shifting gear at around 3k rpm), i will definitely going to do one more time tranny oil change (people say dont do flush, it spoils the tranny), so i want to stay away of it
if anyone still suggest flush then any recommendation, I stay in minneapolis and want to do before the snow
Im not yelling at you...but in general, Im SICK OF PEOPLE SAYING THAT!
I dont even like to discuss my transmission with people because of that. I just read the DIYs here...and they have never failed me yet.
I flushed my tranny thru the cooling hose last year. All it does is pump the fluid into a bucket while you pour new stuff in. You're not hooking up some machine to it. You're not lodging pieces of metal into any gears. Its the same sh!t that happens while you're driving. I cant understand the concept of it ruining a transmission by putting new fluid in.
Now, that was about 20,000 miles ago (and alot of highway miles). My transmission fluid was brown and a tiny bit burnt smelling. I would even say it was slightly neglected before I found this forum. Even Toyota dealers never commented on it, but I knew thats not the color its supposed to be. I did not have the trans go out on me after the flush. Its now red as blood and I dont have to worry about it again for the next 40,000 miles
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Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 09-26-2010 at 02:04 AM.
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