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Hey guys, I feel bad starting a thread about this, but I haven't really been able to find the answer I'm looking for on this one. I'm looking to replace the timing belt tensioner on my car (1MZ-FE), and I'm aware of how to replace and change it, but my question is: Would I be able to remove the tensioner without removing the belt? IIRC, the section of belt between the Bank 1 Cam pulley and the tensioner bearing should be where the slack in the belt is, so I shouldn't have to worry about removing anything else along the way, or shifting the cam pulley forward or something? Any input would be appreciated!
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
Have you checked the step-by-step on a TB change to see where the tensioner falls in the R&R?
That applies to a 5S-FE and not a 1MZ-FE, it's a bit different on a 1MZ-FE. On a 5s, it's a bearing style tensioner with a spring, while on the 1MZ, it's a hydraulic tensioner, so it's quite different...
Thing is, I've done the timing belt before on my car, and IIRC between the bank 1 cam pulley and the tensioner bearing is where the belt should be left slack for the tensioner to apply pressure on it. I want to simply remove the tensioner without touching anything else, but a lingering fear is that I shift timing off... Any thoughts on that?
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
Not sure what exactly you are asking? The tensioner is at the bottom of the engine, which pushes up onto the idler pulley #1, which is close to the crankshaft. You should be able to remove it without disturbing the belt timing.
What makes you want to replace it?
The Following User Says Thank You to 71Corolla For This Useful Post:
Yeah it's fine man. The tensioner is always the last part to be put back on anyway. Take it off slow and evenly between the two bolts and do the same for installation and you'll be fine.
If it shifts you will hear it, and at that point you'll have to reset timing. I have never had this happen so just pay attention.
Not sure what exactly you are asking? The tensioner is at the bottom of the engine, which pushes up onto the idler pulley #1, which is close to the crankshaft. You should be able to remove it without disturbing the belt timing.
What makes you want to replace it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonegrave
Yeah it's fine man. The tensioner is always the last part to be put back on anyway. Take it off slow and evenly between the two bolts and do the same for installation and you'll be fine.
If it shifts you will hear it, and at that point you'll have to reset timing. I have never had this happen so just pay attention.
projectvertex sorry about little thread hijack
do you guys think it's possible to remove 5s-fe tensioner without removing belt ? that's what i will be doing next weekend, but so far planned on removing belt for this. my old aftermarket tensioner is screwed up (noisy), so replacing it with new Koyo unit.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
^ No problem man! Might as well ask right? (That's why I started this thread, I wanted some confirmation)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Corolla
Not sure what exactly you are asking? The tensioner is at the bottom of the engine, which pushes up onto the idler pulley #1, which is close to the crankshaft. You should be able to remove it without disturbing the belt timing.
What makes you want to replace it?
That answered my question I was asking if removing it would disturb the timing, but I was way to verbose about it Story behind it is it got smacked a little too hard and that put a small dent in it. Now it's making a really weird noise
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonegrave
Yeah it's fine man. The tensioner is always the last part to be put back on anyway. Take it off slow and evenly between the two bolts and do the same for installation and you'll be fine.
If it shifts you will hear it, and at that point you'll have to reset timing. I have never had this happen so just pay attention.
Thanks That's perfect! So it should be a 10 minute job rather than a 2 hour job
__________________
1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
do you guys think it's possible to remove 5s-fe tensioner without removing belt ?
Yep, should not be a problem. But you must keep tension on the belt, otherwise it might slip off, likely the on the crank. Use a bungee cord or something similar to pull up on the belt. And don't turn the crank or the cams when doing this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by projektvertx
That answered my question
Cool.
When removing the two bolts, back them off evenly, there is quite a lot of force there (unless the tensioner is bad). I also recommend you put anti seize on the bolts when you put them back in, they have a habit of stripping.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 71Corolla For This Useful Post:
That applies to a 5S-FE and not a 1MZ-FE, it's a bit different on a 1MZ-FE. On a 5s, it's a bearing style tensioner with a spring, while on the 1MZ, it's a hydraulic tensioner, so it's quite different...
Don't know what you're referring to, but I meant the step-by-step instructions in the FSM, available online. It provides instructions for both engines...you just have to go to the right page for the engine you're working on.
The Following User Says Thank You to TedL For This Useful Post:
Don't know what you're referring to, but I meant the step-by-step instructions in the FSM, available online. It provides instructions for both engines...you just have to go to the right page for the engine you're working on.
I've used that before to change the TB, but it was never really clear to me if I could simply take off the tensioner and put a new one on without disturbing anything Thanks though!
EDIT; I thought you were refering to the DIY availible here...
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
Are you trying to do something like Fenixus is, leaving the crank/lower cover in place etc and do the tensioner only?
Looks like the bolt for removing the tensioner pulley itself is close to the crank pulley. And this may be covered up by the lower timing cover and the crank pulley.
Are you trying to do something like Fenixus is, leaving the crank/lower cover in place etc and do the tensioner only?
Looks like the bolt for removing the tensioner pulley itself is close to the crank pulley. And this may be covered up by the lower timing cover and the crank pulley.
nah, i'm removing the lower cover as well (want to replace it, mine is ground off above water pump hehe), but i don't quite like the idea of removing the t-belt - if i can get away with tensioner replacement and t-belt in place I will go for it, will just check belt alignment on pulleys to all the marks i can find (hopefully it's good).
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Make sure you perform the tensioning step to the letter because the I4 does not have the automatic tensioner. Some like to apply "extra force" to the belt. I however would just follow the instructions exactly, including the complete revolutions before tightening.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fenixus
nah, i'm removing the lower cover as well (want to replace it, mine is ground off above water pump hehe), but i don't quite like the idea of removing the t-belt - if i can get away with tensioner replacement and t-belt in place I will go for it, will just check belt alignment on pulleys to all the marks i can find (hopefully it's good).
Make sure you perform the tensioning step to the letter because the I4 does not have the automatic tensioner. Some like to apply "extra force" to the belt. I however would just follow the instructions exactly, including the complete revolutions before tightening.
will do, this week will study all the 5s-fe timing belt job DIYs I can find
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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I was asking if removing it would disturb the timing, but I was way to verbose about it
Story behind it is it got smacked a little too hard and that put a small dent in it. Now it's making a really weird noise
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