Engine misfires after plugs/wires change.

[google123]

Hey everyone I changed the spark plugs/wires on the Camry this evening and now the engine runs rough, misfires ( I can hear it pop out the exhaust), and is has no power for acceleration. I installed NGK V-Power plugs, and NGK Wires. Is there a way to test the ignition coils? I have the V6 engine with only 3 coils on the front 3 plugs. What is the procedure for checking those before replacement?

The Check Engine Light was on before I changed the plugs. The reason I decide to change the plugs/wires was because of the codes presented when I checked using the OBD-II Code Reader. I figured new plugs/wires would help eliminate the first four codes.

0300 - Random Misfire
0303 - Misfire Cylinder 3
0305 - Misfire Cylinder 5
0306 - Misfire Cylinder 6
0135 - O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1
0155 - O2 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1
1300 - Igniter Circuit Number 1

I disconnected the battery to replace the broken positive battery terminal. When I connected it back with a new terminal and fired it up, the engine runs rough, misfires, I can smell gas when the car is running, and I drove it down the street and it has no power at all. There is no more CHECK ENGINE LIGHT though.

Today I'm gonna pull the coils again and try using the old wires with them to see if there is not a problem with the new wires that I bought. I have heard of people getting bad wires before. One plug had some oil on it so I think I will need to replace the tube seals as well soon. Gotta get it running smooth and kill the misfires first though. Thanks everyone.

[AliRazoR]

check your coils resistance.

[LittleWhiteBubble]

If your coil is already weak and you didn't gap your plugs properly, you probably aren't getting sufficient spark. When you buys plugs they usually aren't pre-gapped. Even when they are they usually aren't done correctly.

[google123]

OK guys, how do I check the coils? Any instructions? Pictures? Pop-up book? Also, yes, I'm a 'tard and didn't properly check the plugs for proper gap. I figured they were pre-gapped and just popped them in as such. Live and learn I guess.

[LittleWhiteBubble]

The only plugs I don't have to gap out of the box are multi-tip ones like the platinum 4's. I'm not sure of the readings for a normal coil output, but you can test it with a good voltmeter. If you replace them, see if you can't find a performance one. I changed out the coil on my f-150 with an msd one that was twice as strong as stock so I could upgrade the rest of my ignition system.

[LittleWhiteBubble]

The low-tech way to test coil output is to pull a plug and see what color the spark is. If it's not blue it's probably weak.

[google123]

Bubble, you're saying I can take the coil out, remove the plug, and attach the plug to the end of the coil like its usually if installed into the engine and just crank the engine to check the spark? Will it hurt anything to have the coil connected to the plug but not installed in the cylinder?

[LittleWhiteBubble]

NO NO NO, you don't remove the coil. You only remove the spark plug, leave the spark plug wire attached and turn it over. It won't hurt anything, just don't touch it. You can also just remove the wire from the spark plug end and hold a screwdriver close to the end and watch the spark jump and check for color that way. But if your screwdriver isn't rubber handled it's going to shock you. It won't kill you or anything, but it will scare you lol.

[fenixus]

i think 1mz-fe coils were on a recall list of some kind or TSB was issued for them until production date of 2000 something IIRC.

try searching the TSB listing for gen4, maybe you find something about coils:
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Ge...neous/TSBs.pdf

so, you have no error codes now at all? have you tried driving it locally to see what comes back? usually misfires are pretty quick to come back if they are strong enough, also remember that they may require the 2 trip logic for popping the CEL light up.

[TedL]

Misfire is not usually a condition that requires 2 trips to illuminate the MIL. It should flash fairly soon after the misfires start.

[fenixus]

oh, didn't realize. based on fact that I once saw a pending misfire on my 5s-fe which never becomes a solid error, it happens only in certain situations. thought it's the 2 trip logic causing that.

"If the same malfunction is detected again during the second
drive test, this second detection causes the MIL to light up.(2nd
trip) (However, the IG switch must be turned OFF between the
1st trip and the 2nd trip.)
- Freeze frame data:
Freeze frame data records the engine condition
when a misfire (DTCs P0300 ~ P0304) or fuel trim
malfunction (DTCs P0171, P0172) or other malfunction
(first malfunction only), is detected.
Because freeze frame data records the engine
conditions (fuel system, calculated load, engine
coolant temperature, fuel trim, engine speed, vehicle
speed, etc.) when the malfunction is detected,
when troubleshooting it is useful for determining
whether the vehicle was running or stopped, the engine
warmed up or not, the air–fuel ratio lean or rich,
etc. at the time of the malfunction."

with a CEL lit up it's much easier, because the freeze frame can be pulled and all engine conditions are known when the DTC was triggered.

but anyways, i think you're right as description of DTC 300-306 doesn't mention 2 trip logic, so it should be instant (CEL should also be blinking when it happens).

[fenixus]

bottom line of my point is I would drive the car a little locally (until fully warmed up) at various RPMs to see what codes might come up.

Misfires can be caused by lots of things:
Ignition system
Injector
Fuel line pressure
EGR
Compression pressure
Valve clearance not to specification
Valve timing
Manifold absolute pressure sensor
Engine coolant temp. sensor
Open or short in engine wire
Connector connection

If I were you I would download SFI and Diagnostics manuals from camrystuff.com and start checking things per FSM.

[TedL]

Just double checked , using my 99 Avalon manual as reference. I oversimplified, as all I've ever experienced on a Toy is the flashing.

The severity of the misfire drives the response. "Frequent" (=>one per 200 engine revs) gets the immediate, flashing MIL response. "Occasional" (once per 1,000 revs) is two trip, solid light.

[fenixus]

ah, gotcha, now it makes much more sense as we both were right

[pmesfun]

Aren't you supposed to be using dual-electrode spark plugs like these?