Camry wont start!! Tried everything!!

[GreenGP]

My camry wont start. Only way to get it to start is the jump the car from the starter relay. I replaced the starter relay, trans switch, starter. The car just doesnt want to start with the key. I recently swapped over the engine and tranny. I dont know if this has anything to do with it. When I drive the car it seems to drive fine. Just gotta pop the hood to start the car. Any help would be appreciated...

[LynchburgCSI]

"Shot gun" time! You've already done the relay, starter itself, and neutral safety switch. Have you checked for a bad ground? Faulty ignition? Poke around with a multimeter... is this an intermittent or a constant issue?

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI

"Shot gun" time! You've already done the relay, starter itself, and neutral safety switch. Have you checked for a bad ground? Faulty ignition? Poke around with a multimeter... is this an intermittent or a constant issue?

^^ I second this


Here is a wiring / fuse diagram of how it all works to help you narrow the search. Make sure when you turn your ignition switch to the on position that the voltage jumps across. If not, I would suspect a faulty ignition switch.

[GreenGP]

Im going to check the grounds. I jumped the car from one side of the relay terminal to the other side and the car starts with the key at the "on" position. BTW this is a 99 5sfe.

Edit: I forgot the mention when the car is in park or neutral the parking brake light and rear light signs are lit up on the dash.

[GreenGP]

Is the computer a possiblity?

[slimscotty]

I am having the same problem but I bypassed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch by putting a jumper between the two starter terminals with a switch on it. It starts with this switch but I want to find out what the problem really is. How do I test the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch?

I have a multimeter but the neutral safety switch harness has many wires. Can someone give me step-by-step instructions?

Sorry,
I am a novice.

~scott

[Mister_Perkins]

The park/neutral position switch detects the shift lever
position and sends signals to the ECM.
The ECM receives signals (NSW, 2 and L) from the
park/neutral position switch. When the signal is not
sent to the ECM from the park/neutral position switch,
the ECM judges that the shift lever is in the D position

Check voltage between terminals NSW, 2, L of ECM.

If you have voltage between those terminals of the ECM the Neutral Safety switch should be OK.

If you do not have voltage check the wiring between the NSS and the ECM

If you have voltage and it still doesn't start,

Check harness and connector between ECM and park/neutral position switch, park/neutral position switch and battery (Continuity)

Also check the Pins shown below in the picture (On the NSS)




One thing you can also try to do is theres a large black plug on the drivers side wheel well that runs inside the car. Pull the plug apart and probe the Black / White wire with a test light and ground the clip side of the test light to a good ground. Turn the key to the start Position and confirm its lighting up.

If it doesnt light up , or you dont have voltage .. you have a problem with the start signal wire and you should replace the ignition switch or repair the harness.

[slimscotty]

Mr Perkins,
thank you soooo much! I am going to test all of these tonight. This may sound silly, but where is the ECM and how do I access the terminals. (I am not near the car at the moment) Also, while testing the black plug inside the car and I am using a multimeter instead of a test light, do I just check for any voltage between the wire and ground? Thanks again,

~scott

[Mister_Perkins]

The ECM is located behind the glove box. You have to actually remove the glove box to access it. 10mm socket and phillips screw driver to get to it.

You are checking for 12V+



The glove box is kind of a pain to get out if you have never removed it. there are two or 3 screws holding the plastic piece under the dashboard (Trim piece) There are 3 or four 10mm bolts holding the glove box in place. and a couple more phillips head screws.
You will also have to remove the light for the glove box as well

10mm bolt holds the Speed control unit and ECM in place to the body. you may need a long extension to easily remove the ECM.

Not super detailed, but once you get in there you will see what is where. I cant remember right off hand. hehe

[Mister_Perkins]

Checking Voltage on ECU




I was thinking of OD1. On pin OD1 you check for continuity to the body .. My bad

Disregard grounding those pins to the body, and use the picture above

[slimscotty]

Mr. P,
I tried this first because it was the easiest thing to access. Sure enough, .01 volts to the black/white wire. I'll start with the ignition switch because I found one I can pull for $15. However, the ignition switch is on the end of the ignition cylinder which has a wire (w/harness) also screwed to the top up near where the key goes in. Do you know where the pin is to slide the cylinder out so I can undo that little harness? Also, Is there anything special I need to do so that the airbag doesn't deploy before, during, or after install?

Thanks again,
~scott

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

One thing you can also try to do is theres a large black plug on the drivers side wheel well that runs inside the car. Pull the plug apart and probe the Black / White wire with a test light and ground the clip side of the test light to a good ground. Turn the key to the start Position and confirm its lighting up.

If it doesnt light up , or you dont have voltage .. you have a problem with the start signal wire and you should replace the ignition switch or repair the harness.

[Mister_Perkins]

before you go and replace the ignition switch, make sure its ok. If the switch checks out, you have a wiring issue (Frayed or broken wire between the switch and that plug.



SRS (SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM)

• Work must be started after 90 seconds from the time the ignition switch is turned to the ”LOCK” position and the negative (–) terminal cable is disconnected from the battery.
• When disconnecting any of the connectors in the SRS, be sure to lock the ignition switch and disconnect the negative (–) terminal cable from the battery first. Since the connectors are twin lock type connectors, disconnect the connectors only after releasing the first stage lock.
• When connecting SRS connectors, be sure to lock them securely. (If the connectors are not locked securely, the system may not operate when needed.)
• Always store the steering wheel pad with the pad surface facing upward. (Storing the pad with its metallic surface up may lead to a serious accident if the air bag inflates for some 333reason.)
• When installing the spiral cable, be sure the vehicle is in the straight ahead condition and confirm that the spiral cable is in the neutral position when it is installed.
• INFORMATION LABELS (NOTICE) are attached to the periphery of the air bag components. Follow the NOTICE.



To actually remove the ignition switch though ;

1. Remove 1" x 2" cover under ignition switch…this gives you access to the cotter pin which releases the ignition switch.

2. Remove ignition switch rim cover (black 1.5" diameter circular washer like piece) by gently prying it off.

3. Remove clear plastic casing cover by gently prying up the 2 plastic tabs (really small and black)

4. Insert Key into ignition switch and turn to ACC.

5. Now the tough part … look at the replacement part, estimate about how far the pin is from the edge of the ignition switch and insert an ice pick or something like it to depress the cotter pin….if you press it right, not too hard, it will jiggle the ignition switch free and you can remove it by pulling the key and ignition switch out. I stuck my left hand into the area from the steering wheel opening, then guide the ice pick coming up the 1x2" opening to where you feel a little cotter pin hole.