Why you should Check OIL

[Mister_Perkins]

Hey guys, I thought you might enjoy this. On my one camry (95), I replaced the motor in it when I bought it. Well, I kept the old motor so that I could possibly repair it some day.. So this weekend I started to tear into it and this is what I found. It looks like the whole motor is salvageable. The head is in awesome shape and the cylinders look like they are in good shape too. Taking all this stuff to the machine shop monday to have it Mic'd, checked for cracks, and to see if its possible to machine the crank down to use oversize bearings. I'm pretty sure that I can get the cylinders honed out... there are some mild scratch marks on them but I think that if i hone the cylinders 2 thousandths I will be okay there. Onto the pictures!!!

Keep in mind, this is why you should always check your fluids!!

[SexieWASD]

I had a hard time finding pistons for mine, ended up ordering beck/arnley pistons because the speed pro's were back ordered. let me know how you do finding them.

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by SexieWASD

I had a hard time finding pistons for mine, ended up ordering beck/arnley pistons because the speed pro's were back ordered. let me know how you do finding them.

. Thanks for the info though, I will keep that in mind when i bring the motor down to the machine shop. I was checking around online and found a couple websites that have rebuild kits, but I am not too sure on the quality of these parts. More than likely they are not within spec of OEM though. I know when I did the main / rod bearings on the 92 camry I got Federal Mogul Bearings. I think that they might have pistons / rings as well.

I just thought that it was crazy how melted that 4th rod bearing was. Since I have the motor torn down, do you guys think that I should get better rods for the motor? I know that the 5sfe connecting rods aren't the strongest...

[SexieWASD]

I also ordered a rebuild kit, when it came it turned out to be the topline kit, something I wasn't expecting considering who I had order it for me, and the price I paid for it. I didn't like the quality of the gaskets in it, but I sent it back mostly based on the price I paid. I don't doubt that the kit would have lasted 100k or so, but not the 200+k you would expect from a Toyota, not a 5sfe anyways. I would do, well exactly what I am doing and buy gaskets you trust, for me thats fel-pro. Bearings I have a different view on, given that they are not really a wear item if the oil system is taken care of, so I'm just going to use the bearings that come with my re-manned crank.

[Mister_Perkins]

Well Bearings are actually a huge part of your vehicle.. they are a wear part. Federal Mogul is a recommended bearing to use for most motors. If your bearings have to much gap between the caps and crank it will not be able to produce enough oil pressure to properly lubricate your motor. Since you are getting matched bearings to that crank you should be in good shape. 1 thousandths gap between the bearing and crank is like a new motor, which is what your crank should be . I still have to get the entire motor cleaned and checked over before i even think of purchasing any parts. I would be pretty bummed out if I found out that the block was junk and i had rebuild parts in my garage.. lol. How much did you end up paying for your crankshaft / Bearings ?

[SexieWASD]

yes, of coarse the gap is critical, thats not really what I meant by that statement, I mean of the varying construction methods and metal choices available as long as the bearing is made to spec I don't see much point in spending extra on them. I would rather spend the extra money on a machine shop with a good reputation.

I ended up getting my crank from rockauto, it was $210 with a $45 core charge so $255 -> $298.36 after shipping. I could have probably had my local machine shop turn and polish it cheaper since it came out of a decently well running motor, but I want another so that I will have one to rebuild the other block sitting in my garage.

[Mister_Perkins]

oh okay, I see what you are saying. Sorry :P

Yeah I am in the same boat as you. All 3 of my camry's are running great, just want at least 1 spare just in case something happens.

[N/A Camry Sleeper]

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

. Since I have the motor torn down, do you guys think that I should get better rods for the motor? I know that the 5sfe connecting rods aren't the strongest...

Absolutely - get new aftermarket rods if you are planning to get more power out of your 5SFE. If you are going stock - I would at least get new OEM rods. The weak point on the rods is actually the rod bolts themselves which are not reliable above 6300 RPM hence the low redline of these motors. But the longevity as you know is almost unparalleled.
It's my understanding that Toyota made smaller, lighter internals to help with off-the-line and city driving behavior; but the tradeoff is lack of high-RPM power. The stock rod bolts are 5/16th of an inch diameter which limits upper RPM usage. Switch to ARPs which are 3/8ths inch (I think) for more reliable upper band power.

[Mister_Perkins]

thanks for the info.. much appreciated

[LynchburgCSI]

And this, ladies and gentlemen, is further proof the the 5s-fe HATES running low on oil. Ouch...

[Mister_Perkins]

Update:

I brought my spare 5sfe to the machine shop, He looked at it (still has to pressure check block / head) and said that it looks like the
block and head are in good shape. Crank I think will be a different story, and I know for sure I will need a new Rod for Cylinder 4. He said I might even be able to re-use the pistons! So thats a plus. Had him check into a rebuild kit for it too and it looks like the basic kit is $300.00 and the master kit with everything including oil pump is around $500.00

[jtex2717]

Looking forward to seeing where you will be getting your parts from especially because I am in the process of rebuilding a 5s...just waiting to hit the loto...

[Mister_Perkins]

hehe i'll let you know what I end up purchasing. He is pretty busy so I am not sure when he will get to checking everything (sometime this week i would suspect). I am getting a Master rebuild kit for sure, but I am not sure which one I will be purchasing.

Update:
I just purchased a second spare 5sfe too that has a dead cylinder for $100.00

**** spare parts ****

[TRD95]

I am very interested in seeing how your build comes out. My engine is almost near the end of it's life (at 330k you know you're living on borrowed time). Just want to get the insight of what are the 5SFE's weaknesses are and strengthen those parts once I need to overhaul.

Out of curiosity I took a oil sample while I did my oil change over the weekend. I sent it out today to Blackstone Labs to see how bad my engine is destroying itself. I get excessive blue smoke at start up so I know I need new Valve Seals. I'd hate to spend 400 bucks on seals only for the engine to blow on me the next year .

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by TRD95

I am very interested in seeing how your build comes out. My engine is almost near the end of it's life (at 330k you know you're living on borrowed time). Just want to get the insight of what are the 5SFE's weaknesses are and strengthen those parts once I need to overhaul.

Out of curiosity I took a oil sample while I did my oil change over the weekend. I sent it out today to Blackstone Labs to see how bad my engine is destroying itself. I get excessive blue smoke at start up so I know I need new Valve Seals. I'd hate to spend 400 bucks on seals only for the engine to blow on me the next year .

I know for sure the rod bolts are a problem with the 5sfe in higher RPM's. but most people dont drive in higher RPMS all the time unless your 16 and got a car for free. hehe

The other weak point I've heard is the Balancer Shafts in the bottom of the engine.

You should post your results of the oil .. i am interested in seeing how that turns out.

Update:

Just got this via UPS today to replace my old wore out one





Still no word from the machine shop....