E153 Tips

[camrtm3]

Ok all. You have seen the step by step with Jon. http://www.1jz.com/camry/guide-trans.htm And You have seen Eye's Tip. As I have gone to step number 14 today I have notices something that could be added to the tips and to the part list.

One, step Number ten. There are 2 Grommets and 2 Sets of 10mm bolts. The ones on the inside are the ones that Jon calls a "bitch!" I will not lie. For a good hour they were a bitch. Until I decided I wanted to remove more to get to them. In doing so I pulled back the carpet on the passanger side to find there is a hole big enough for my hand and a the socket wrench.



The hose is the drain for your AC. Behind and under the Big black thing (IDK what it is, dont ask. lol) is where the bracket and grommet are. On the engine side I would recommend Lifting the car early and coming up from the underside of the car near the Cat to remove the 10mm bolts.

This is the first thing for parts is both brackets for the grommets need to be bought for the manual swap. I did not want to buy them cause I didnt know. So I modded the brackets to fit the manual grommets.


There will be more to come. With more pic with Completion Video.

The other things to be added will be a all new exhaust and CF hood.

Add Before go, I will warn you that This is is not for the faint of heart. If you are not Comfortable with yourself modding a car DO NOT DO THIS ONE!

More updates to come.

[Stonegrave]

I hated that part. I'm claustrophobic and impatient so I got crazy pretty fast. My little sister has really small hands so I taught her how to use the wrench and she got them out for me.

I never put the metal parts back on. The rubber is just sitting where it needs to, I'm pretty surprised.

Goodluck!

I also hate that big black box, haha. When I got rid of it we played baseball with that and a 4x4. It went into the dumpster in like 20 pieces =D

[camrtm3]

Ok Ladies and Gents.

I would first like to apologize for no further updates on the Swap. I have gotten a bit carried away with REMOVAL of parts. The Car still has the auto but is at least 150lbs lighter without everything.

Anyway Today I am not hear to update the tips. I am Stuck. The auto is still in and I have been finding that I have lack of tools here and there... FAIL. So I need some help. I have finally gotten to the part where I need to remove the bolts that hold the Rack in place on the sub-frame. There are 2 Bolts that hold the Rack in place. Now my repair manual says that they are torqued on for 134 ft lbs. But I have a feeling that my friend to torqued it on too much. but that is theory. Anyone know how to remove the Rack bolts?!

Thanks all.

[Spitfire]

air ratchet =] or some extreme leverage. not gonna lie i cant say how many times i have slipped a long pvc pipe over a ratchet to get a bolt loose. used that technique when i was getting the header and flanges seperated from the car to make room for the new full exhaust.

[Stonegrave]

One person gets in there with a double wrench on the side that has no clearance(toward the front of the car), the other puts a ratchet on the more open side(the rear). The one with the ratchet is who gets it loose.

(this is specifically for the passenger side, the driver side is easier to get to).

It is really tough, but using cheater bars works well.

[camrtm3]

Ok. I finally have time to add more tips to this. I am no longer on step 15. I am somewhere on step 40-something on jon's guide linked in my first post.

If you look at step number 22 it says completely remove the transmission hoses. For this I would recommend disconnecting the transmission hoses from the radiator where the fluid gets cooled and leave them on the transmission. They will not hurt anything later nor be in the way later and they are flexable so when you are ready to drop the transmission they will just move around what ever is in the hoses way.

Step 28, says to remove the driver side axle. You will need a crow bar for this. There is a snap ring on the inside of the transmission that is holding this axle in. You can not get to it by dissembling the transmission. And I would not recommend it unless you are a trained transmission tech. So go with on of the 2 simple brute force ways. The first way is to grab a crow bar an pry between the axle and the diff. Be gentle if you want to sell or need to re-use the axle, the axle seal flange will bend easily. The other way is to get a set of Whale grips and grab the joint on the inside and hammer the whale grips towards the outside of the car until the snap ring comes free. This is the way I would recommend, its easier.

Step 29 is a little confusing. It says remove the passanger axle. My recommendation. Remove the axle from the wheel hub. Remove the carrier bearing snap ring. And LEAVE the axle in the transmission if you are dropping it. (If you are following jon's guide you are dropping out the transmission.) There is no snap ring on this axle holding it in the transmission. The problem with this axle is that the carrier bearing is most likely original and has locked itself in the mount. And you cant remove this mount for 2 reasons. One its is the only mount for the back of the engine and you would need to get the engine hoist involved sooner. And the more obvious reason is that the the axle is in the way of the bolts holding the rear mount to the engine. Best to leave the axle in the mount and transmission until you remove the transmission and then hammer out the axle when you have more room.

Step 40 says the Subframe is heavy. I am giving the heads up, its really not. I can lift it by myself. what makes this a 2 person thing is the fact it is so large and awkward to handle. You can pull it out yourself, but to save time use a friend.

Step 41. Look out and double check there is nothing holding onto the transmission. There is a grounding cable on the top that needs to be removed. And 2 metal cable guides. On the back there is a bracket holding the rear header on that is attached at the differential. It is a 2 peice mount so I would not recommend unbolting from the transmission. instead remove the one bolt that holds this mount together.

Is you followed my step on leaving in the passanger axle there will be tension between the axle and the transmission while pulling the trans. Don't worry about it. Just be calm about it. It will come out.

Hear is the end result of all that hard labor on just removing the automatic. (Its not as easy as it looks.)

One automatic transmission. Also remember to remove the throttle cable between the transmission and the throttle body. Else you will be asking for trouble.



One Subframe member. If you are going to replace the sway bar, bushings, tie rods or ball joints now is the best time!!!!



One 1MZ-FE hanging.



I always wanted to know what the flex plate looked like. Here is what it looks like.



I also never really knew what a torque converter looked like. This is what it looks like. Also WARNING there is about 5+ quarts of transmission fluid still in the torque converter. Be careful when dropping it cause that torque converter will come out and it will make the ultimate bloody mess.



More will come later.

[lemegacool]

thanks for the tips man! its going to be really useful when i'll finally be installing my e153 that is sitting next to me lol

i only miss 2 little parts!!

[3point0coupe]

nice tips man ...i'll just started my swap today took out the the whole motor and will be swaping the 5 speed tranny

[camrtm3]

As Of today I have the flywheel and Clutch one.

Couple of things. With the Flex plate do not put either of the rings that are with the flex plate back on with the flywheel. If you do you will have a horrible issue. So heed my warning! You will most likely not be as lucky as I was.

Flywheel Issue

So with clutch installation. Make sure you have a clutch alignment tool. It will save you about 20 minutes of fingering the clutch to get it in straight. I have a centerforce dual friction clutch in. So one the pressure plate is painted. And the Paint makes it more annoying while fingering the clutch cause the pins in the flywheel are not going in smoothly cause its pulling off the paint. Fail Centerforce!

So step 48. Says install the new clutch. The Easy Way. Also reference clutch replacement for 5S-FE in the DIY section of Camry on TN. Place flywheel side of clutch against flywheel and insert alignment tool. Place Pressure plate over the clutch. Put in the 6 12mm pressure plate bolts and FINGER TIGHTEN ONLY!!!!!!!!!!! This is your last chance before doing it all over again. Carefully line up the clutch. But wait we have the alignment tool in? Yes Line it up all the way around. The tool is a guide to make this easier. There will still be a little amount of play with the tool. Then once you have it finally lined up use a socket wrench and slowly tighten down the bolts. As you tighten down the bolts you will notice the forks starting to flatten out. Tighten in a star pattern as well. This will ensure that the pressure plate is installed evenly. Once the blots start to get hard to move use your torque wrench to put each bolt at 14 ft-lbs. Key to this entire process is slowly. If you do this too fast you may have to start over, or worse end up with a massive repair bill cause you messed it up.

End product looks like this:


I have a question now for anyone that may know. Attempted to install the tranny mount to the tranny mounting plate today. and this happened.





Notice that the other bolt hold doesn't line up. Any tips on what I need to do here. Yes these are correct parts. Plate was pulled straight off an E153. And this is the 2nd tranny. both Are different brands and are identical.

Let me know.

[Eye8Pussies]

that is very strange,...that is def the right plate, so the only possible problem would really be the mount. Although you said that both of the mounts that you tried were identical and were from different manufacturers, that doesn't mean that they were cast from the correct mold in the first place....

have you had the chance to try an oem mount?


but regardless of that fact, I would just bring that to a local exhaust shop or something where they do welding and have somebody weld a small piece of steel onto the edge of that so that you can move the placement of the hole on the mount

[Eye8Pussies]

also, a tip in regards to aligning the clutch, etc.



in the case that your clutch is not perfectly aligned, it makes it tougher to bolt up the motor to the tranny (the bolts won't line up perfectly and the tranny and motor won't mate properly). BUT should that occur, an easy way of "automatically" aligning the clutch is to mount the tranny and the motor together as best as you can and then use a ratchet to turn the crank, and then it will align itself!

had I figured that out the hard way after struggling with installing my second motor in -40*Celsius weather in my garage after I couldn't find my clutch alignment tool from when I first installed my clutch/flywheel on my original motor.

[camrtm3]

The Camry lives. I stayed in the garage last night till 9 putting the car together. Think the hardest part was finding something to use for the axle seals to put them on. And the longest part was pulling all the air out of my clutch lines. Which are all new.

There will be tips coming in a different form this time. With so many of us are doing this mod now there are bond to be more on the way. So be expecting to see something more detailed in the future.

Also I will be firing up the cam one more time tomorrow. Its for testing when the ECU calls to the O2 sensor after the cat. I will have my camera charged tomorrow. Sorry there will be no rev'ing of the engine. I do not have my Y pipe installed yet. So it will be Loud and will be smokey. And I dont want to burn my exhaust valves. I am looking for something less Cheap then what OBX sent me. So there will be a vid of this thing.

Like everyone else has said. This is the ultimate mod for the V6 Camry. Prolly the I4 too, but I have one. Pics will be coming soon too.

[N/A Camry Sleeper]

I'd like an E153 for my 5SFE - that would be sweet cruising on the interstate at a little less RPM in 5th gear compared to the .83:1 that's in it now (the S54 I think)

Is the E153 a little beefier (heavier) than the other 5-speeds? Guess it would be sitting behind a V6

Keep up the good work - will be referencing this thread when the time is right!

[Eye8Pussies]

^ you'd be surprised about the actual gearing in the e153...it sucks on the highway- 5th gear is too short still- I like to cruise at around 140kph, which makes me rev at around 3500 in 5th on the highway. in comparison, with the auto, 140kph was 3K in 4th/OD

the e53 has longer gear ratios due to its final gear ratio, so it's better on the highway

[camrtm3]

Video post.

Was testing each gear once more. Making sure it wasn't a fluke.

You Tube

You Tube

Though I threw a ABS code this time. Need to get the code reader again...