leaking PS fluid on passenger side

[97vulcan]

Hey Guys,

it seems my 92 camry 2.2l is leaking PS fluid from the passenger side of the vehicle. no noise from the PS pump, and steering seems to be fine.

Could my Rack and Pinion be leaking? or could it be a hose leaking?

What should I be looking for in regards to leaking R&P? or just a leaking hose?

Thanks,
Adam

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by 97vulcan

Hey Guys,

it seems my 92 camry 2.2l is leaking PS fluid from the passenger side of the vehicle. no noise from the PS pump, and steering seems to be fine.

Could my Rack and Pinion be leaking? or could it be a hose leaking?

What should I be looking for in regards to leaking R&P? or just a leaking hose?

Thanks,
Adam

Your Rack could be leaking, but most of the time its usually just a leaking PS pump. You could clean off the pump really good with de-greaser and then start the car up and see exactly where its leaking to be sure.

There is a really good Stop-Leak that lucas provides if you don't want to rebuild anything or replace that worked pretty good on my 93 camry.

Its Lucas Stop-Leak , you can pick it up at most of your auto stores

I would personally clean everything really clean first though and figure out exactly where the leak is coming from.

[reluctantmechanic]

what mr. Perkins said on the cleaning...

...finding the leak won't be to hard...

Your rack sits further back than your pump - the next likely place is your res - two connections there, and they are just simple clicks, that do leak - the third likely place is more towards the front of the pas side, you will see that a power steering hose runs down under the frame, and has another simple clip.

Put a piece of cardboard under your car, and get an idea of where it's coming from.

Keep us posted!

[97vulcan]

thanks for your fast replies. I will look into the leak further. It seems to be getting worse....I will look at where it could be leaking...

I will try the lucas no leak and see what that does, and I'll clean up the pump, and look for any lose connections. The pump is not noisy at all, and steering seems to be be just fine with no whining or anything.

how could I tell if the rack is leaking? any tell tale signs?

It's going to be hard to see where its leaking as I try to park in the same spot but it's hard. lol

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by 97vulcan

thanks for your fast replies. I will look into the leak further. It seems to be getting worse....I will look at where it could be leaking...

I will try the lucas no leak and see what that does, and I'll clean up the pump, and look for any lose connections. The pump is not noisy at all, and steering seems to be be just fine with no whining or anything.

how could I tell if the rack is leaking? any tell tale signs?

It's going to be hard to see where its leaking as I try to park in the same spot but it's hard. lol

Start the dry park check by leaving the steering wheel unlocked and reaching up and rocking the steering input shaft from underneath the vehicle. Or, have a helper rock the steering wheel from inside the car while you observe the following points for play:

1. Steering input shaft coupling. The coupling must turn freely without binding, making noise or wobbling. Rubber sandwich-type flexible couplings must be free from cracks or tears.
2. Outer tie rod ends. No visible play should be observed. Also rotate the tie rod by hand to check for binding.
3. Inner sockets. Either by pinching the bellows or by sliding the bellows back for direct observation, you should see no visible motion. The condition of the bellows is extremely important because they keep out contaminants. A crack, tear or split in the bellows can allow dirt and moisture to ruin the inner socket. The formation of rust on the rack shaft can also destroy the rack seals. That is why the bellows should be inspected every time a vehicle is up in the air, and replaced immediately if found to be defective.
4. Rack mounts. There should be no relative movement between the rack and chassis. Also look for cracked or broken rack ears.

[reluctantmechanic]

you can check the res tank from above by just looking - the only other fluid close by it is coolant, so you'll know very quickly if the tank is leaking...and the front hose clip (again, follow the res tank line from the tank, it's the line that runs to the front of the car. You'll be able to see it very easily.

[97vulcan]

Hey guys,

looks like it's my PS pump thats leaking.

Was wondering if there is a DIY guide for replacing this on a 2.2l Gen 3 Camry?

Also, what auto parts place do you recommend I purchase the pump from? and will I need to purchase anything other than a pump, and fluid?

Thanks in advance!

Adam

[JohnGD]

If you are mechanically inclined or have a friend who is, then maybe $20 for a seal kit from Autozone should solve it. However, if a groove is worn into the pump shaft, then this won't work.

DIY rebuild (for a V6, but similar):
DIY: 1MZ V6 P/S (power steering) pump rebuild

A rebuilt pump with lifetime warranty costs about $90-110 (plus core charge) depending on the year/month of the car's production. Autozone has a no nonsense lifetime warranty and there is always one close by. Or you can check online stores like rockauto.com. But shipping costs usually kill the deal when cores/returns are involved.

I'd recommend that you siphon out the Dexron III type ATF from the reservoir every year. It's about 400ml and should help the pump and rack last. For the PS system I'd recommend Walmart's SuperTech Mercon-V (suitable for Dexron III applications, check the label). It's more shear stable compared to dino D-III. I wouldn't use the thin Dexron VI in the PS system.

Or consider doing a complete fluid change by doing the following:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html

In this DIY the owner used Castrol D-III (now it's called domestic multi-vehicle ATF). This is a dino fluid. Get the Import Multi-Vehicle ATF, which is a synthetic blend. Pep Boys sometimes has a sale 2 qts for $5. Or just use the ST Mercon-V. Also, I would use jack stands, not just a floor jack.

Originally Posted by 97vulcan

Hey guys,

looks like it's my PS pump thats leaking.

Was wondering if there is a DIY guide for replacing this on a 2.2l Gen 3 Camry?

Also, what auto parts place do you recommend I purchase the pump from? and will I need to purchase anything other than a pump, and fluid?

Thanks in advance!

Adam

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by 97vulcan

Hey guys,

looks like it's my PS pump thats leaking.

Was wondering if there is a DIY guide for replacing this on a 2.2l Gen 3 Camry?

Also, what auto parts place do you recommend I purchase the pump from? and will I need to purchase anything other than a pump, and fluid?

Thanks in advance!

Adam

Toyota sells a seal replacement kit for that pump that's pretty reasonable ($30 list, more or less). Generally the seals are about the only thing that goes south on that puppy. The pump on the 4-banger isn't all that bad to get to.

[JohnGD]

Good to see you back Hill8570!

[97vulcan]

where can I find a DYI to disconnect the PS pump from the car? Is it pretty straightforward?

Thanks,
Adam

[JohnGD]

If you are mechanically inclined then it's not a problem. Some have commented about getting to the two bolts.

You will need a set of tools like pry bar (for setting belt tension later, because these cars don't use automatic tensioners), maybe a belt tension gauge (Gates Krik-it II, $20 on Amazon), torque wrench (Harbor Freight $12 will do), sockets/extensions, floor jack/stands, etc.

Check the timing belt DIYs.

Originally Posted by 97vulcan

where can I find a DYI to disconnect the PS pump from the car? Is it pretty straightforward?

Thanks,
Adam

[fenixus]

I have to say that setting the tension on p/s pump/pulley is a a pain ... when I was doing the timing job I didn't realize there is no automatic tensioner of any kind LOL

ended up (when on my back under car) using my 2t compact jack lever as a pry bar with one hand and a ratchet on pivot bolt (or lock bolt, can't remember now) with the other hand ... was kind of acrobatic experience, but it worked hehe ... I checked the tension with Krikit and it read between 60-80lbs, so all good.

[97vulcan]

once I remove the wheel well cover, Can I access the PS pump and bolts?

Do I need to relieve the tension to the pump before I try to remove it? and if so, how do I remove the tension from the pump.

how do I disconnect the hoses from the pump? Can those leak at all?

Thanks for any input!

Thanks,
Adam

[JohnGD]

Yes. You can access the pump after removing the wheel and the plastic cover. The pump uses a pivot bolt and an adjuster bolt. You loosen both and you slip the belt off. Remove the hoses, and remove the bolts completely to remove the pump. You don't need to touch other belts and you can leave the PS belt on the crank pulley, but protect it from ATF and dirt.

This is a cheap design that saves Toyota money, but whoever works on it needs to do more work and may still not set the tension right.

You can see the PS pulley in the 3rd to the last picture here. That shiny bolt near the top of the pump is the pivot bolt. The adjuster bolt is nearly on the opposite side.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t109966.html

Here is another one where the PS pump is clearly visible:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t149232.html

When you remove the hoses yes the ATF will come out. So have old newspapers and a catch pan ready. Don't get ATF on the rotor or you'll need to spend time to clean it off properly.

I'd recommend that you go through the repair manual step by step first.

Originally Posted by 97vulcan

once I remove the wheel well cover, Can I access the PS pump and bolts?

Do I need to relieve the tension to the pump before I try to remove it? and if so, how do I remove the tension from the pump.

how do I disconnect the hoses from the pump? Can those leak at all?

Thanks for any input!

Thanks,
Adam