3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
JE Performance Crank Vs Reground OEM Which would be better?
So I spun a rod bearing and am not if I should go with a New JE performance or a reground OEM crank. Price is the same so that's not applicable, I just want to know what would be better/more reliable. Thanks in advance!
Reground OEM would be better probably. I don't see the point of getting a performance aftermarket crank that might not be quite as reliable if you're not beefing everything else up, like the rods for example
Reground OEM would be better probably. I don't see the point of getting a performance aftermarket crank that might not be quite as reliable if you're not beefing everything else up, like the rods for example
It's an OEM equivalent, the company is just called "JE performance". Sorry for the confusion. Just read your PM, I'm sure I'll get it sooner than I thought then.
Ah. I would just regrind the OEM crank. I don't really trust aftermarket parts anymore...anything I've ever bought aftermarket over $100 has failed. It's always something important too, i.e. clutch kit, axles, knock sensors...
aftermarket have just as much material taken off as a re-ground would. The reason you get something re-ground is if it has too much run-out (bend), or nasty scratches and grooves. When you re-grind a camshaft you get more lift because the lobes of the camshaft are lower than before re-grinding them. You should only have to re-grind a camshaft or crankshaft if you have excessive run-out or deep scratches. If its smooth, you can get away with polishing it and re-installing it. Use Plastigage to check for clearances if you dont have a micrometer handy.
The Aftermarket OEM Cranks and Cams are just reground OEM Cranks and Cams.
aftermarket have just as much material taken off as a re-ground would. The reason you get something re-ground is if it has too much run-out (bend), or nasty scratches and grooves. When you re-grind a camshaft you get more lift because the lobes of the camshaft are lower than before re-grinding them. You should only have to re-grind a camshaft or crankshaft if you have excessive run-out or deep scratches. If its smooth, you can get away with polishing it and re-installing it. Use Plastigage to check for clearances if you dont have a micrometer handy.
The Aftermarket OEM Cranks and Cams are just reground OEM Cranks and Cams.
The aftermarket crank is NEW, manufactured by JE Performance and not reground I believe. So my question is what's better, an oem reground, or a new crank by this company. Sorry for the confusion!
The aftermarket crank is NEW, manufactured by JE Performance and not reground I believe. So my question is what's better, an oem reground, or a new crank by this company. Sorry for the confusion!
Well if the diameter of the main journals is the stock diameter, its always better to go with something that has more beef to it.
You re-grind something, you remove material. Granted its not much material, but as you remove material, it gets a little bit weaker.
If you get an OEM re-manned crank it will be re-ground but it will not affect anything. It will still run just as good. But keep in mind, if it ever needs reground again, you may run into problems depending on the maximum amount on the crank that can be ground (Not sure). You could talk to a machine shop and see what the max re-grind you can do is though. It may also be in your FSM.
OEM Spec is always a good idea, but quality / function will be the same. OEM Remanned you will just use oversize bearings, OEM SPEC you will use OEM bearings. it will still last for a really long time if you keep the motor in good shape
Does JE Performance have a link or spec sheet for this supposedly new crankshaft?
What would be more reliable is to find the cause of the issue regardless of the crankshaft chosen!!
__________________
Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Address the issue otherwise the failure will repeat itself.
__________________
Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Address the issue otherwise the failure will repeat itself.
Well a spun bearing is from poor lubrication.
So its either:
1. Bad oil pump (Too much clearance between drive and driven rotors)
2. too much clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft
3. Plugged oil passage
4. Car had no oil
I know that. But, the thread starter still has not posted on what caused his failure.
Please, no ignorance or generalizations. Just the facts.
__________________
Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
I know that. But, the thread starter still has not posted on what caused his failure.
Please, no ignorance or generalizations. Just the facts.
I really don't see why the cause of the problem is even relevant ?
If the engine is brought to a machine shop to get honed out or whatever, they will magnaflux, and dip the motor anyways so any passages that are blocked, are no longer blocked. And if you get a master rebuild kit on top of that, then it comes with a new oil pump. Problem solved.
the cause of his problem was Low oil pressure or no oil pressure.
That's the only time something happens like that, unless the motor is running at severly high RPMS, but in that case you would see Broken rods instead of Spun Rod.
Why? Because I simply asked why to add 'data' to this thread. Maybe it'll help someone prevent the same problem in their vehicle. Thats fucking why!
Problem doesn't get solved unless the failure cause is understood. Please, no assumptions. Just the facts from dis-assembly.
And, blindly trusting a machine shop or supplier could lead to other issues or repeat of the same.
I'd stick with a reground OE crank if its a usable core, and your machinist is competent.
I'm reluctant to use any supplier, regardless of what fancy business name they have, without researching their history and reputation.
Cleaning a block and tossing in a master rebuild kit doesn't guarantee success or prevention of the original problem.
__________________
Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
95 Camry
AUTO to MANUAL Swap Guide (3rd Gen) - 
Linear Mode
