'99 camry 2.2 4 cyl. Idle Speed too low and stalls when cold - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-28-2010, 11:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Canada '99 camry 2.2 4 cyl. Idle Speed too low and stalls when cold

'99 camry/2.2 4 cyl. Idle Speed too low and stalls especially when cold. Need to push the gas pedal for a while to avoid it dead. Cleaned throttle body and the IAC with a carburetor cleaner, cleaned fuel injectors and replaced the air filter. But the problem still remains even getting worse. Ocasionally the idle speed is okay without pushing the gas pedal. But most of time it is bad as discribed before, and even triggering the check engine light on. When the Idle Speed is bad, the car runs lack of power(feels heavy). Any idea? Thank you!
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yxhjl View Post
'99 camry/2.2 4 cyl. Idle Speed too low and stalls especially when cold. Need to push the gas pedal for a while to avoid it dead. Cleaned throttle body and the IAC with a carburetor cleaner, cleaned fuel injectors and replaced the air filter. But the problem still remains even getting worse. Ocasionally the idle speed is okay without pushing the gas pedal. But most of time it is bad as discribed before, and even triggering the check engine light on. When the Idle Speed is bad, the car runs lack of power(feels heavy). Any idea? Thank you!

Using Carburetor cleaner in a Throttle body is bad for our motors. You may have screwed up a sensor.

If you have just sprayed everything with the cleaner, it could just be some cleaner trapped inside that didnt drain. When you cleaned the IAC, did you remove it completely ? Or did you just spray it in the port inside the throttle body?

The best way to clean those if you are not removing it completely is to pull the electrical cable off of it and cycle the power to it (plug, unplug, plug, unplug) while spraying your cleaner.

Another thing you may want to try is to spray your cleaner around the intake manifold and check to see if you are getting any changes in your RPM. What happens sometimes is the Intake gasket deteriorates and there will be a gap between the IM and the head. When the car heats up, the intake manifold expands and fills the gap (hence a better idle). The intake manifold could also be warped too.

Have you checked your map sensor to make sure its working properly? (Most of the time they do not go bad, but it does happen.)

Did you clean your EGR Valve out?


What code did you throw when your check engine light came on?

EGR Valve from my "Mystery Motor" :
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Last edited by Perkins; 10-28-2010 at 11:18 AM. Reason: added picture of EGR valve
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Canada RE: '99 camry 2.2 4 cyl. Idle Speed too low and stalls when cold

Thank you for your quick respond!
Yes, when I cleaned the IAC, I didn't remove it completely, just spray it in the port inside the throttle body. I didn't touch anothing else. So, what should I do now? and how to do? Please advise. Thank you!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins View Post
Using Carburetor cleaner in a Throttle body is bad for our motors. You may have screwed up a sensor.

If you have just sprayed everything with the cleaner, it could just be some cleaner trapped inside that didnt drain. When you cleaned the IAC, did you remove it completely ? Or did you just spray it in the port inside the throttle body?

The best way to clean those if you are not removing it completely is to pull the electrical cable off of it and cycle the power to it (plug, unplug, plug, unplug) while spraying your cleaner.

Another thing you may want to try is to spray your cleaner around the intake manifold and check to see if you are getting any changes in your RPM. What happens sometimes is the Intake gasket deteriorates and there will be a gap between the IM and the head. When the car heats up, the intake manifold expands and fills the gap (hence a better idle). The intake manifold could also be warped too.

Have you checked your map sensor to make sure its working properly? (Most of the time they do not go bad, but it does happen.)

Did you clean your EGR Valve out?
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Canada Thanks for help

BTW, I didn't unplug the IAC sensor' electrical cable. I don't know the code of check engine light on. The guy just told me it shows there is too much gas. Any idea? Thank you again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins View Post
Using Carburetor cleaner in a Throttle body is bad for our motors. You may have screwed up a sensor.

If you have just sprayed everything with the cleaner, it could just be some cleaner trapped inside that didnt drain. When you cleaned the IAC, did you remove it completely ? Or did you just spray it in the port inside the throttle body?

The best way to clean those if you are not removing it completely is to pull the electrical cable off of it and cycle the power to it (plug, unplug, plug, unplug) while spraying your cleaner.

Another thing you may want to try is to spray your cleaner around the intake manifold and check to see if you are getting any changes in your RPM. What happens sometimes is the Intake gasket deteriorates and there will be a gap between the IM and the head. When the car heats up, the intake manifold expands and fills the gap (hence a better idle). The intake manifold could also be warped too.

Have you checked your map sensor to make sure its working properly? (Most of the time they do not go bad, but it does happen.)

Did you clean your EGR Valve out?


What code did you throw when your check engine light came on?

EGR Valve from my "Mystery Motor" :
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Canada Where is the intake manifold that you mentioned?

Where is the intake manifold that you mentioned? Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins View Post
Using Carburetor cleaner in a Throttle body is bad for our motors. You may have screwed up a sensor.

If you have just sprayed everything with the cleaner, it could just be some cleaner trapped inside that didnt drain. When you cleaned the IAC, did you remove it completely ? Or did you just spray it in the port inside the throttle body?

The best way to clean those if you are not removing it completely is to pull the electrical cable off of it and cycle the power to it (plug, unplug, plug, unplug) while spraying your cleaner.

Another thing you may want to try is to spray your cleaner around the intake manifold and check to see if you are getting any changes in your RPM. What happens sometimes is the Intake gasket deteriorates and there will be a gap between the IM and the head. When the car heats up, the intake manifold expands and fills the gap (hence a better idle). The intake manifold could also be warped too.

Have you checked your map sensor to make sure its working properly? (Most of the time they do not go bad, but it does happen.)

Did you clean your EGR Valve out?


What code did you throw when your check engine light came on?

EGR Valve from my "Mystery Motor" :
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well from what your saying, "too much fuel" Could be due to oxygen sensor, Un-metered air getting into the throttle body (usually due broken / cracked / disconnected vacuum hoses), really poor fuel pressure, a MAP sensor problem.

It would help if you gave the code #

Check your Vacuum routing on the underside of your hood and check all your vacuum lines

One thing you may want to try to do is run some sea-foam in your throttle body.

I feel like we should advertise that stuff on here, because were always recommending it. hehe



Testing IAC:

1. INSPECT IAC VALVE OPERATION
(a) Initial conditions:
• Engine at normal operating temperature
• Idle speed set correctly
• Transmission in neutral position

(b) Using SST, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the data
link connector 1.
SST 09843–18020

(the SST Is a fancy connector. You can just use a stripped wire to jump the Te1 and E1 connectors)

(c) Maintain engine speed in the range between 900 –
1,300 rpm for 5 seconds. Check that it returns to idle
speed.
If the engine speed operation is not as specified,
check the IAC valve, wiring and ECM.

2. INSPECT IAC VALVE RESISTANCE
(a) Disconnect the IAC valve connector.
(b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
terminal + B and other terminals (ISCC, ISCO).
Resistance:
19.3–22–3W
If resistance is not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
(c) Reconnect the IAC valve connector.





hope those images and info helped ya!
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Canada Thanks a lot!

Thanks a lot!
1st of all, I'm trying to figure out what you advise me here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins View Post
Well from what your saying, "too much fuel" Could be due to oxygen sensor, Un-metered air getting into the throttle body (usually due broken / cracked / disconnected vacuum hoses), really poor fuel pressure, a MAP sensor problem.

It would help if you gave the code #

Check your Vacuum routing on the underside of your hood and check all your vacuum lines

One thing you may want to try to do is run some sea-foam in your throttle body.

I feel like we should advertise that stuff on here, because were always recommending it. hehe



Testing IAC:

1. INSPECT IAC VALVE OPERATION
(a) Initial conditions:
Engine at normal operating temperature
Idle speed set correctly
Transmission in neutral position

(b) Using SST, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the data
link connector 1.
SST 0984318020

(the SST Is a fancy connector. You can just use a stripped wire to jump the Te1 and E1 connectors)

(c) Maintain engine speed in the range between 900
1,300 rpm for 5 seconds. Check that it returns to idle
speed.
If the engine speed operation is not as specified,
check the IAC valve, wiring and ECM.

2. INSPECT IAC VALVE RESISTANCE
(a) Disconnect the IAC valve connector.
(b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
terminal + B and other terminals (ISCC, ISCO).
Resistance:
19.3223W
If resistance is not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
(c) Reconnect the IAC valve connector.





hope those images and info helped ya!
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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maybe you should try to find a friend or family member that knows a little bit about vehicles to help you on this project..

You will need a Digital Multimeter to measure the resistance and voltage.



To run the IAC test, you have a datalink connector on the left side of your engine bay. (Black little box about 1.5 inches wide and 2-2.5 inches long). Open that up and you will have a bunch of metal tabs in there. On the cover of that Datalink Connector will list every connection for it. Find out where TE1 and E1 is first.

Get a piece of electrical wire and strip it so the copper wire is exposed on both ends (this will be your jumper) Twist the ends of wire tightly together so it doesnt connect more than TE1 and E1 terminals.

Start your car up and get it to normal operating temperature.

Temperature gauge should be between the HOT and COLD marks on the dashboard. Once this occurs, put the vehicle in Neutral and set your emergency brake (Lever of Foot Brake)

Connect the wire you stripped to TE1 and E1 on the datalink connector you found earlier. Hop into your car and maintain the RPM between 900-1800 rpm for at least 5 seconds, then let go of the gas pedal and make sure that it goes back to a normal idle.

If the RPM Does not go back to normal idle, your IACV could be faulty or you could have a problem with the wiring between the Computer (ECM) and the IAC or the ECM could be faulty.

The other information I provided, you use a Digital multimeter and put the probes where the picture lists and measure the resistance or Voltage depending on the test.

The last image is showing you where the intake manifold connects to the motor. Spray along where the line is listed

Keep note: The valve cover is not installed in this picture
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What does the SST stand for? SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS/Super Sonic Transport/Something else? Where I can get it? According to the image shows the intake manifold, I don't think I can clean it at home by myself, Can I? Needs a mechanic to so? I think the only thing I can do is the 2. INSPECT IAC VALVE RESISTANCE. I'll let you know the result.
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yxhjl View Post
What does the SST stand for? SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS/Super Sonic Transport/Something else? Where I can get it? According to the image shows the intake manifold, I don't think I can clean it at home by myself, Can I? Needs a mechanic to so? I think the only thing I can do is the 2. INSPECT IAC VALVE RESISTANCE. I'll let you know the result.
the SST is just a datalink connector you can purchase. You do not necessarily need to purchase this though, because you can simply strip a standard electrical wire and use that instead.

Yes, you can spray the intake manifold yourself. Just spray on the back side of your Valve cover along the top where i drew the line.

Here are some pictures for reference of what you need to do

For IAC Procedure:








To Check Intake Manifold for Leaks:
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Your IAC is bad. My 2002 Avalon just went through this same problem. It will go out on you at the worst time, like mine did. Let me know when it dies. Mine took a while but it happened. Same thing.

Good luck
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Agreed...your IAC is causing the issue. Those devices DO NOT last the life of the car. Cleaning alone is NOT good enough once it get to the point yours has. Buy a new one...
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You probably need to clean the IAC valve. It's a common problem because of the design. Some may have problems with the engine temperature sensor, but it's less common.

If needed, you can disassemble the IAC. One member's done that. You should be able to clean it without getting a new one.



Quote:
Originally Posted by yxhjl View Post
'99 camry/2.2 4 cyl. Idle Speed too low and stalls especially when cold. Need to push the gas pedal for a while to avoid it dead. Cleaned throttle body and the IAC with a carburetor cleaner, cleaned fuel injectors and replaced the air filter. But the problem still remains even getting worse. Ocasionally the idle speed is okay without pushing the gas pedal. But most of time it is bad as discribed before, and even triggering the check engine light on. When the Idle Speed is bad, the car runs lack of power(feels heavy). Any idea? Thank you!
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Canada Thank you!

Thank you for your opinion!

Quote:
Originally Posted by magautoparts View Post
Your IAC is bad. My 2002 Avalon just went through this same problem. It will go out on you at the worst time, like mine did. Let me know when it dies. Mine took a while but it happened. Same thing.

Good luck
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thank all of you guys! I do appreciate your advice.
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