3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
When i took my car for Engine Diagnostics after the seeing Engine light warning turned on, They said that i have to replace "Evaporation Control Canister" and gave me quote of $450 just for the part (labor not included), Is it that worth? How bad is it if i drive without replacing it?
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1998 Toyota Camry LE Sedan V6-3.0L (1MZ-FE)
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When i took my car for Engine Diagnostics after the seeing Engine light warning turned on, They said that i have to replace "Evaporation Control Canister" and gave me quote of $450 just for the part (labor not included), Is it that worth? How bad is it if i drive without replacing it?
Yeah anything EVAP is going to be expensive. My uncle had his EVAP Canister priced at the dealer and it was about the same. $350.00.
The Job of the Charcoal canister is to re-introduce Fuel Vapors into your system. Is basically to keep the Environment Healthier.
Not replacing it will not really do anything to affect your car itself. The only thing it will do is :
1. Release The Vapors into the atmosphere
2. Fail Inspection
3. Show an EVAP Code as MIL On your Dash
I looked on ebay, and a new canister will cost you $259.75 to DIY.
Theres a couple toyota parts guys on this forum may even be able to get it cheaper than that also...
I drove with several EVAP codes for maybe 6 months. Nothing bad happened. When the CEL light came on, I cleared all the codes and went about my business. I found a used canister at a junk yard for $70.00 and took the old one out, and replaced it with the junk yard pull.
It's not a difficult job to do, just two bolts and the old one comes out. There are a few hoses to remove but they were easy. I got some bulk vacuum tubing and replaced all the rats nets of tubes under the car while I was in there.
Getting the canister back in is not a big deal. But getting the one bolt towards the front back in is a real PITA to get it aligned and the threads started. Maybe I was just unlucky, but I finally got it in. You will need to get the car up in the air on ramps, or jack stands set pretty high.
Yeah that could be a good idea too, but the only problem there is most of the time you don't know if the canister is any good. Depending on the mileage its probably alright, but there's always that chance that it is junk too. Just something to think about also.
I'm not trying to deter you from saving money in any way, You may get lucky like ajkalian did and end up with no problems afterward
Yeah that could be a good idea too, but the only problem there is most of the time you don't know if the canister is any good. Depending on the mileage its probably alright, but there's always that chance that it is junk too. Just something to think about also.
I'm not trying to deter you from saving money in any way, You may get lucky like ajkalian did and end up with no problems afterward
I figured it this way. Since most people get freaked out whenever they see a CEL light, and they run off to the dealer, and bend over and get it fixed.
Furthermore, any problem with the EVAP system will throw a CEL and you can't pass smog anywhere with a CEL. So any car that has new plates you can assume there is no EVAP problems, and the canister is working properly. You might even luck out and get a new one that was just replaced.
One other thing to watch out for. If you get one from eBay make sure it has the vacuum switches on it. The canister quoted from the dealer usually doesn't have them, and they are pretty pricey, like $75.00 each IIRC. No need to worry about them if you get a junk yard pull, they will already be on there.
You model year might be different, but check to be sure.
^^ Yup Yup. I agree with you 100% I would personally just go pull a used one if mine ever goes bad. Because for $75.00 Its hella cheaper than $350 or $450.00. Hell its even better than $250.00 on ebay. And if that one is damaged or doesn't work, pay another $75.00 for another one. Thats only $150.00 . still cheaper than a new one . lol
Just for info: gen3 has non-ECU controlled EVAP system (purely mechanical), thus, gen3 shouldn't throw any EVAP related MILs (it also doesn't have EVAP monitors (OBD-II)).
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
Thanks all for your response, Until i replace canister does it effect the fuel consumption, Because i could see difference in fuel consumption.
First, I would post the check engine code here. a lot of people have been dealing with evap codes and you might be able to fix the problem without replacing the whole canister. Could be just a VSV valve that is sticking
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Restoring '65 Chevy Impala Super Sport w/ 327-300 small block, Edelbrock carb/intake and T-5 tranny that will probably blow up.
Black '98 Camry LE 4Cyl Auto, 188 000Kms and counting
Black '98 Camry CE 4Cyl Auto, 295 000Kms and counting - SOLD
Just for info: gen3 has non-ECU controlled EVAP system (purely mechanical), thus, gen3 shouldn't throw any EVAP related MILs (it also doesn't have EVAP monitors (OBD-II)).
he has a Gen 4 (1998) 1mzfe
Quote:
Originally Posted by camry.toyota1998
Thanks all for your response, Until i replace canister does it effect the fuel consumption, Because i could see difference in fuel consumption.
The job of your EVAP system is to introduce the fuel vapors into your system. It richens your fuel mixture, only when your car is running lean and the ecm triggers it to purge.
If your charcoal canister is really messed up, you could see a drop in fuel economy if its purging fuel straight into your charcoal canister. If this happens, it will saturate your canister with fuel and purge onto the ground.. which can be dangerous.
Go on a short trip and inspect your charcoal canister and make sure that its not leaking fuel out
Just for info: gen3 has non-ECU controlled EVAP system (purely mechanical), thus, gen3 shouldn't throw any EVAP related MILs (it also doesn't have EVAP monitors (OBD-II)).
I have always wondered about that - thanks for the info!
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1996 Toyota Camry 5SFE 5-spd 329.9K - UNDER REPAIR
1997 Honda Civic 1.6 5-spd - 183K and 27 MPG average - Dependable DD and *small* family car
1991 Acura Integra 1.8 5-spd - 241K and 28MPG average - I'm game for a simple LS Vtec swap now...
The evaporative emission control system warranty will be extended from the current two years or 24,000 miles to 14 years or 150,000 miles.
Only 1998 models manufactured prior to 02/26/1998 are eligible, though. You can see what date the vehicle was manufactured on the driver's side door jamb sticker. It lists the production date.
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1991 Toyota MR2 V6
Ported, rebuilt 3.0L 1MZ
Fully OBDII compliant and California smog legal
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