Absurd starter issue.

[blaxkinned]

Hello guys, I finally swapped my 1MZ engine and I hopped in to start the car, and the moment the key slides into the ignition switch, I hear the car trying to start (I HAD NOT EVEN TURNED THE KEY).

I removed the key and try to stick it in again and it starts to click. The battery isn't fully charged cos it's been sitting out since the car was being worked on, but I am wondering why the starter would engage before I even turn the key

Any ideas people. I would appreciate it....thanks.

[BamZipPow]

Check yer wiring to the starter. They could be pinched somewhere during the install...

[lemegacool]

i would focus on the starter/ignition wiring... other than that i'm clueless

[blaxkinned]

Thanks guys. I would definitely look into the wiring. I couldnt do that today because of school and work.
Feedback tomorrow

[blaxkinned]

Ok guys, I am still having that starter issue. And can't seem to figure it out.
Charged battery and opened the starter solenoid to clean it...can't find the contacts anywhere around here

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

Ok guys, I am still having that starter issue. And can't seem to figure it out.
Charged battery and opened the starter solenoid to clean it...can't find the contacts anywhere around here

hmmm . Have you checked the resistance on the small wire running to the starter?

On my 95, I get 25ohm with ignition off and 35ohm with ignition on.


EDIT
MAKE SURE YOUR WIRING HARNESS PLUGS ARE ALL CONNECTED

[blaxkinned]

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

hmmm . Have you checked the resistance on the small wire running to the starter?

On my 95, I get 25ohm with ignition off and 35ohm with ignition on.

You are talking about the wire that runs from the solenoid to the starter right?

What is the resistance supposed to be?

Dang! NOw I wish I listened in my Physics class

[Mister_Perkins]

I don't see a schematic showing the amount of resistance for the small wire .. I ran that test myself on my own vehicle.

Disconnect the (-) battery terminal before testing the starter relay

3. INSPECT STARTER RELAY

A. Inspect relay continuity
(a) Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2.

(b) Check that there is no continuity between terminals 3 and 5.

If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay

===

B. Inspect relay operation
(a) Apply battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2.

(b) Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 5.

If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.


======

Addition :

the small wire that connects to your starter is linked to your ignition switch. If that wire / starter relay is OK and there are no tears in the wire or shorts, I would look into your ignition switch. Could be some problem there..




With ignition "ON" (car off)

[blaxkinned]

Mr Perkins, I appreciate the pics and the effort. I took out my starter and the starter relay last night. I tested the starter relay and there is NO continuity between 1 and 2, and between 3 and 5....so I'm guessing the relay is fubar.

I don't mind replacing the relay, I am just hoping that's all there is to it. Also, I dont know if my reasoning is right,..but if there is no conitnuity between pins 1 and 2 on the starter relay, how is the starter being fed voltage when I just stick the key in the ignition without turning it?

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

Mr Perkins, I appreciate the pics and the effort. I took out my starter and the starter relay last night. I tested the starter relay and there is NO continuity between 1 and 2, and between 3 and 5....so I'm guessing the relay is fubar.

I don't mind replacing the relay, I am just hoping that's all there is to it. Also, I dont know if my reasoning is right,..but if there is no conitnuity between pins 1 and 2 on the starter relay, how is the starter being fed voltage when I just stick the key in the ignition without turning it?

Did you try applying voltage to pins 1 and 2 and seeing if there was continuity between 3 and 5?

Your relay seems messed up as of now, but it could be a problem deeper than a relay.

I would check to see the functions of your ignition switch before replacing that relay.

When the key is inserted, a signal is sent to the courtesy "open door" warning beep. You may want to check the wiring there, for some reason it may have shorted into your starter signal wire somehow?

All of these tie in when you push the key in the ignition.

Have you tried putting the key in the ignition with the door closed yet? If you have.. the open door warning probably isnt your trouble.

[blaxkinned]

Thanks so much Mr. Perkins. I appreciate your assistance.
I took my starter to a rebuild shop and the guy tested it and said it worked fine, so that's one possibility eliminated.

As for the relay, I haven't replaced it, and my dumb self did not apply voltage to pins 1 and 2...for clarification, it'll be POS on one of the pins and NEG on the other, right?

LAter today, I would be going to remove the ignition switch (the stuff that the key goes into). The only thing is that before the engine swap, it seemed alright, but who knows.

And, Mr Perkins, that schematic up there makes me feel stupid but I would try to read it...I have a little bit of knowledge about schematics...I just hate schematics...lol

I didn't notice the door chime when I inserted the key, since the starter grabbed my attention right away. I would have to check that out.

Thanks once again

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

Thanks so much Mr. Perkins. I appreciate your assistance.
I took my starter to a rebuild shop and the guy tested it and said it worked fine, so that's one possibility eliminated.

As for the relay, I haven't replaced it, and my dumb self did not apply voltage to pins 1 and 2...for clarification, it'll be POS on one of the pins and NEG on the other, right?

LAter today, I would be going to remove the ignition switch (the stuff that the key goes into). The only thing is that before the engine swap, it seemed alright, but who knows.

And, Mr Perkins, that schematic up there makes me feel stupid but I would try to read it...I have a little bit of knowledge about schematics...I just hate schematics...lol

I didn't notice the door chime when I inserted the key, since the starter grabbed my attention right away. I would have to check that out.

Thanks once again

No, apply voltage to pin 1 and 2. then check 3 and 4.

I think your problem may lie in that little bugger. it may be shorted somehow.



http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1117/starter.gif


You can see from this picture, voltage from battery, goes to pin 3, when you turn the key, it goes across pin 1 to 2 the PCM sends a signal back to the relay when the key is turned on... Since you dont have continuity in 1 and 2 like the test indicates.. that means from pin 1 to 2 the resistor inside is bad. if you replace that and the problem persists .. That image I listed above (wiring schematic of door chime) I was showing you that when you put the key in the ignition, the key completes a circuit to the chime sound. When the door is open, it also turns a light around your key cylinder on as well.



One thing to try.. Disconnect the small wire running to the starter (Ignition switch wire). Put the key in, and test for voltage at the small wire. if 12v+ You have voltage running out of it (if it were connected your starter would be cranking). Check at the ignition switch to see if voltage is running out of the ignition switch to the starter. If so, problem is at the ignition switch. If not, check wiring at PCM for Starter signal. If there, check for shorted wire, replace ECM if nessicary with a known good computer. Check for voltage again.

To check for shorted wire at ECM, disconnect computer.. Probe starter wire, and touch body metal. If continuity, there could be a short in the wire at somepoint in the harness

[blaxkinned]

Hello, I just checked the door chime. The green light around the key comes on, and the door chime is present. I had the starter connector disconnected and tested voltage from it without the starter relay. There was no voltage until I put in the starter relay.

Now, I just need to find out how to remove the ignition switch/cylinder.

[blaxkinned]

I do not know how to apply voltage to the relay pins 1 and 2 without breaking it's casing. Any ideas?

[blaxkinned]

Ok, I just employed some common sense and applied voltage to the starter relay. There was continuity between pins 3 and 5. so the operational test passed, but the continuity test failed. What next?

Could the relay be the culprit here?