150K service question?

[tmpnsnty]

I've got a 2000 camry LE, 4 cylinder. It's about time to get my 150K service done. But the dealership wants ~$550 for the following services (which the previous owner also did @120K):

-Fill Fluids to proper levels
-Engine Oil and filter change
-Replace Engine Air Filter
-Coolant Drain & Fill
-Replace Spark Plugs
-Transmission Fluid Exchange
-Tire rotation (just got new tires, even I don't need it they'll still bill me for it, because it's a package)
-Balance Tires (just got new tires)

-Comprehensive Multi-point inspection?
-Battery Service?
-Clean Electronic Fuel Injectors?

I want to do the 150k service myself to save some money. I've a pretty good idea how to do the first part of the list by myself from watching my friends/doing them myself. Though I have no idea what they meant by the last 3? The dealership employee explains them as checking "stuff" and cleaning your battery?! Not very helpful.

Also, are there any tips and advices? Anything else I should check at 150K? The previous owner changed the timing belt+brakes @90K, battery replaced @130K. Everything else is original. Thanks.

[JohnGD]

Many members here can easily handle those jobs. If you can do it yourself you can save some $$$. I'd use NGK Iridium-IX spark plugs, it's an approved application for the 2000 5SFE (BKR6EIX-11). Check rockauto.com for price comparisons.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/

With every oil change you are supposed to get the multipoint inspection. That includes visually checking things like leaks, CV boots for cracks, ball joint boots, brake pad thickness, top off all fluids, etc. What you can do is handle everything now, and then pay $35 for a dealer oil change 3000 miles later to get the same multipoint inspection if that makes you feel more comfortable. It's also a chance for the dealer to spot money-making opportunities without them giving you the excuse of $550 for doing really not that much more.

Battery service: clean the battery posts and clamps. Maybe they do a load test, but so does Autozone, for free.

Fuel injector cleaning: I don't think dealers hook up an external cleaner injector to the fuel rail any more. Most manufacturers no longer recommend the use of harsh cleaning chemicals unless there is injector related performance problem. It's now just a bottle of Techron in the fuel tank for you. Normally, just use Top Tier gas:

http://www.toptiergas.com/

You can google up some DIY maintenance articles. But you need to exercise caution with battery's acid, hot/moving engine parts, etc etc.

With 80deg temps now in Houston, you can use Motorcraft synthetic blend 10W-30 in the engine from Walmart. Great value. Use a larger filter for Toyota's 2.4L engine, or get a PureOne PL14477 from Pep Boys. Maybe your local Autozone has the 5qts Valvoline DuraBlend (synthetic blend) motor oil and a filter for $19.99. That's a great value too.

Originally Posted by tmpnsnty

I've got a 2000 camry LE, 4 cylinder. It's about time to get my 150K service done. But the dealership wants ~$550 for the following services (which the previous owner also did @120K):

-Fill Fluids to proper levels
-Engine Oil and filter change
-Replace Engine Air Filter
-Coolant Drain & Fill
-Replace Spark Plugs
-Transmission Fluid Exchange
-Tire rotation (just got new tires, even I don't need it they'll still bill me for it, because it's a package)
-Balance Tires (just got new tires)

-Comprehensive Multi-point inspection?
-Battery Service?
-Clean Electronic Fuel Injectors?

I want to do the 150k service myself to save some money. I've a pretty good idea how to do the first part of the list by myself from watching my friends/doing them myself. Though I have no idea what they meant by the last 3? The dealership employee explains them as checking "stuff" and cleaning your battery?! Not very helpful.

Also, are there any tips and advices? Anything else I should check at 150K? The previous owner changed the timing belt+brakes @90K, battery replaced @130K. Everything else is original. Thanks.

[wilsonman02]

That list is very simple to do yourself. I would suggest doing it yourself to save some money. The multi point inspection i would guess is a nice way of saying they are gonna look for something wrong they can fix and bill you. If you have a new battery than you dont need a battery service. And i'm not sure how they would clean your fuel injectors, i would ask them about that, they might just put a bottle of FI cleaner in your gas.

[tmpnsnty]

Originally Posted by wilsonman02

That list is very simple to do yourself. I would suggest doing it yourself to save some money. The multi point inspection i would guess is a nice way of saying they are gonna look for something wrong they can fix and bill you. If you have a new battery than you dont need a battery service. And i'm not sure how they would clean your fuel injectors, i would ask them about that, they might just put a bottle of FI cleaner in your gas.

I just think it's a little bit too expensive for that service and it's fun to spend an afternoon fixing up my car.

[tmpnsnty]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

With 80deg temps now in Houston, you can use Motorcraft synthetic blend 10W-30 in the engine from Walmart. Great value. Use a larger filter for Toyota's 2.4L engine, or get a PureOne PL14477 from Pep Boys. Maybe your local Autozone has the 5qts Valvoline DuraBlend (synthetic blend) motor oil and a filter for $19.99. That's a great value too.

Thanks for the tips. Being in Houston, I'm actually thinking of switching to synthetic, because I drive a lot (~4000miles/month). But I also read I should change the filter every 3000miles, is it true?

It always amazes me how cheap the oil is in Wal-mart.

[hill8570]

Like JohnGD sez most of this is easy stuff. The only somewhat difficult thing there is the tranny fluid exchange, and if your tranny fluid still looks nice and red you probably don't need to do that. If you *do*, then there's a nice DIY here on how to do a shade-tree flush. Not hard, but a mite messy.

The multi-point inspection is mostly an excuse to drum up more business, although occasionally they actually run across something that really does need fixing.

[fenixus]

all the tasks listed (some are trivial) except balancing wheels can be DIY with a total cost below $100 ... as above suggested, you can do it if you are willing to, search forums and check FAQ section in sticky, there is lots of DIY covering most topics.

if you can't find something or need to confirm something, don't hesitate to ask

[JohnGD]

Synthetics do have their advantages. However pre-2010 Toyota engines are not designed for extended drain intervals. I would rather use a blend and change often, but some members do insist on fully synthetic. So YMMV.

The Gen 4 engines are known sludge makers. So I think 3000 miles would help for its longevity. One 95 owner with oil analysis showed that a 2000 mile interval would be better in that case. But that's a 330K+ engine. Here is the thread:

Oil Analysis results for my 95 Camry 5SFE Engine

When these engines were new, 5000 miles were fine. But as the engines aged, I would reduce the intervals. The 2010 ones with redesigned cylinder heads (2.5L) are good for 10K OCI, but I would still do no more than 5K on them.

Some say leave the synthetic oil in there but change the filter often. But that doesn't get rid of the smaller particles that can pass through the filter. Only an oil change can get rid of them.

Originally Posted by tmpnsnty

Thanks for the tips. Being in Houston, I'm actually thinking of switching to synthetic, because I drive a lot (~4000miles/month). But I also read I should change the filter every 3000miles, is it true?

It always amazes me how cheap the oil is in Wal-mart.