3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Good morning, replacing the pads on my 4 wheel disc xle. Bought the pads from Toyota, as I have had problems with using parts store pads on imports.
The old brakes had some crappy shims that had either rusted out or shifted to the point they were rubbing the rotors. Junk.
Anyway I find out when I pick them up today, that the pads do not come with any anti-squeal shims. I can order the shims, but I need the car back on the road monday morning.
I hate doing stuff twice, so i don't want to just put it all together to see what happens.
1. I can order a shim kit from Advance Auto to be here Sunday.
2. I can use the old standby 'thick paste anti-squeal in a squeze tube' that I have used on every GM car i've ever replaced brakes on.
Permatex has a good spray called Disc Brake Quiet available at the parts store. You spray it on the rear sides of the pads and let it dry before installing. This will do the same thing as the shims you are speaking of.
That anti-squeal stuff will do the same thing as well.
Either the OEM shims or the Brake Quiet compound. You don't use both at the same time.
Akebono makes excellent OEM pads. However, in their aftermarket version they use a stick-on shim that as you said, shifts. Cheap junk IMO. So I remove the cheap "stickers" and install without them.
What's the printed code n the brake pad? Something like "AK xxx-xxx FF"? or "NBK xxx-xxx FF"?
I used the AK-----EE. They did not come with shims, stick-on or otherwise. Car Quest told me not to use the old shims, ust put them in dry. I installed with new rotors and re-greased the slides and pins. The brakes are absolutely silent and work great without a hint of dust. Only have 5,000 Mi on them so far though.
Those are Akebono brake pads. Here is a picture of the Akebono ProAct aftermarket pads for 93 V6 (ACT476). Notice the shims. They look like "clip on" because of the tabs, but are thin and are really the cheap "stick-on's".
You should notice how heavy gauge the old OEM outer shims are. But unless you make sure they're absolutely clean, I would not reuse shims (+1 with what jon1000 and Car Quest said). They can cause the pads to be crooked and cause problems later if not absolutely flat.
If you're concerned, I'd definitely recommend that you get a set of new shims from the dealer. The dealer also wants you to use the black moly/graphite grease on the inner shim (did you see this on the old shims?)As I said, shims serve as a heat insulator as well, in addition to quiet things down. So YMMV before deciding not to use them.
Besides, just because Akebonos stay quiet on everybody else's cars it may not be on yours . The main problem is with these cheap aftermarket stick-on shims. Many of them shift on different makes and models, so I have the habit of removing them even before install. No Brake Quiet either (but I do have it on the shelf collecting dust).
Do re-lube the slides and caliper contact points with brake lube like Permatex Disc Brake Lube (not the rubbery "brake quiet"). You can find $1.10 packs on many parts counters. Do not use a petroleum based cleaner on rubber parts, it swells them. Use alcohol.
A better grease to use on external contact points is the following. This one has ceramic solids and is thicker than the green gel above. This one is better than the black and nasty moly/graphite brake grease that's recommended by the dealer that I don't use (I personally go with Permatex all the time):
I have a similar dilemma, where I already changed my pads on my 1992 LE 4 cyl with some duralast pads. The pads did not come with shims, and these squeak on and off. So I would like to know the best shims to go with, OEM? and would these solve my squeeking issues?
I thought the Duralasts already have shims on there? At least in the pictures they're showing on Autozone's website (see links below). Do not use another shim on top of that!
If you search about Duralast brake pads you'll see many complaints of noise. It's a hard material some say. These pads are supposed to have lifetime warranty? But I wouldn't touch these pads.
That said, did you lightly lube the caliper contact points with the back of the pads? And on the slides and anchor pins? Doing so may help, but it does have to do with pad materials.
Akebono ProAct ceramic is an excellent formulation for daily drivers. They're not performance pads by any means, but are quiet, very looooong lasting, and light dusting. I spec only these pads, if available, for midsize non-performance sedans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iduzitbettr
I have a similar dilemma, where I already changed my pads on my 1992 LE 4 cyl with some duralast pads. The pads did not come with shims, and these squeak on and off. So I would like to know the best shims to go with, OEM? and would these solve my squeeking issues?
Thanks for the reply JohnGD. Yes in fact they are lifetime warranty, so I returned my worn pair and received the new pair from autozone. This was a result of my father purchasing them years ago before the car was passed down to me.
I am pretty sure mine did not come with the shims. Just to be sure, the shims are the metal clips and thin metal plate that goes between the back of the pad and caliper, correct? And if I were to buy a pair of OEM Toyota shims, would they fit these duralast pads?
This was my first brake job, (which I did on my own), and I did not lube anything...I am planning on going back over everything before it gets colder out...I should use that Permatex Lube you recommended earlier as well?
Are the brake pads wearing evenly on the inboard and outboard side of each caliper? Can you easily move the anchor pins with finger pressure?
How are the rotor surfaces? No scoring deep enough to catch finger nails? No sign of warpage?
If you're sure the pads do not have shims, then get OEM ones. These are one thick, solid outer shim and one thinner slotted inner shim. The dimensions of the pads are supposed to be identical to OEM, so the shims should fit, but I do not know for sure in case of minor variations because, as I said, I don't use shims unless they come riveted.
The inner slotted shim is supposed to get a light coat of brake lube (the green gel is easier to apply to the inner shim, but if you can make purple ceramic work here it's also better) just paper thin to barely cover both sides or they'll really squeeze out. You have to make sure the surfaces are clean and flat or it will act like a wedge and make things move crooked. Clean the pad slides (metal clips) too with brake spray cleaner.
Do not use petro based cleaner on rubber, use alcohol on lint free paper towels to clean. Obviously no lube on the friction surface. Torque to spec. If you don't have a torque wrench then Harbor Freight has them on sale often, ~$12 each. These are all metal and work very well. Or Sears Black Friday sale is coming. ~$40 for the "Crapsman" some call because the plastic lock ring often breaks. I do have both brands.
Check some of the DIY too. I'm not sure if the OEM style shims and Permatex are going to help Duralast pads. But you can let us know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iduzitbettr
Thanks for the reply JohnGD. Yes in fact they are lifetime warranty, so I returned my worn pair and received the new pair from autozone. This was a result of my father purchasing them years ago before the car was passed down to me.
I am pretty sure mine did not come with the shims. Just to be sure, the shims are the metal clips and thin metal plate that goes between the back of the pad and caliper, correct? And if I were to buy a pair of OEM Toyota shims, would they fit these duralast pads?
This was my first brake job, (which I did on my own), and I did not lube anything...I am planning on going back over everything before it gets colder out...I should use that Permatex Lube you recommended earlier as well?
The CMax has those anti-rattle springs and may help reduce some noise. However, the Duralast Gold with riveted shims didn't show them. So I'm not sure if holes are drilled on the edge to accept the springs. If the pads have the holes, then springs should be used to further help noise reduction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iduzitbettr
Yeah, actually now i remember the pads had those shims attached on the back, like in the link. However, they did not come with those metal clips.
Then I am positive I have the Duralast Gold. I might stop by autozone and ask them to see a pair of the Golds for my application, so that I can see if they can accept the springs (So that I know my options before taking everything off again). I will also check my rotors, I am not experienced at this, but I do believe there was some very light scoring when I changed the pads.
Last edited by Iduzitbettr; 11-17-2010 at 07:14 AM.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
95 Camry
AUTO to MANUAL Swap Guide (3rd Gen) - 
. The main problem is with these cheap aftermarket stick-on shims. Many of them shift on different makes and models, so I have the habit of removing them even before install. No Brake Quiet either (but I do have it on the shelf collecting dust). 
Linear Mode
