Is this transmission fried?

[blaxkinned]

I bought this 99 Camry V6 with a seized motor. Supposedly the owner's daughter drove it without oil and it seized on the highway. Everything else regarding the car seemed to be well taken care of.

However, after battling a not so smooth engine swap, the car would not move after it starts. It kinda sounds like the transmission is engaging as I put it in R or D (you know the variation in engine sound when you put the car in gear) but there is no power to the wheels.

Any ideas?

Also, when in R or D, and I step on the gas, the speedometer does not move. I put 5 quarts of transmission fluid after the engine swap. I just noticed the manual says something like 7+ US quarts for dry fill. (Would dry fill mean when completely empty?)

I would appreciate any positive response or pointer. Thnaks in advance.

[TRD95]

Did you have the transmission in the Neutral position during the engine swap? Usually the parking paw will become stuck when you do an engine swap with the transmission in Park.

Another thing could be that something is stuck in the transmission. Air being trapped in the system is unlikely, that's not very common. How was the torque converter when you did the swap? Was the fluid ok or did it have a burnt smell to it?


When it specifies dry fill this does mean when there is absolutely no ATF in the system. The A140E transmission does top off at 7qts of Dexron III.

I'm leaning more into a possible torque converter issue. Maybe it's not installed correctly. They tend to slide off a bit during re-installation. I would double check that to make sure

[blaxkinned]

No, transmission was in Park throughout the swap.

The transmission oil and filter were changed and there was no burnt smell. Matter of fact, the old ATF seemed to be in good condition.

Would the transmission likely not engage if it is about 2quarts short? (Considering that I'm sure - didn't add more than 5qts after the swap?)
Also, what exactly is the parking paw?

What is the easiest way to double check the torque converter? (I'm mighty short on time due to work and last semester of college).
And when you say "they tend to slide off a bit" are you referring to them kinda not meshing with the protruding groove in the transmission?

I appreciate your response a lot.

[TRD95]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

No, transmission was in Park throughout the swap.

The transmission oil and filter were changed and there was no burnt smell. Matter of fact, the old ATF seemed to be in good condition.

Would the transmission likely not engage if it is about 2quarts short? (Considering that I'm sure - didn't add more than 5qts after the swap?)
Also, what exactly is the parking paw?

What is the easiest way to double check the torque converter? (I'm mighty short on time due to work and last semester of college).
And when you say "they tend to slide off a bit" are you referring to them kinda not meshing with the protruding groove in the transmission?

I appreciate your response a lot.

Funny thing you ask about the transmission shifting if 2 quarts low, yes it'll still shift. I found this out last week when I caught my transmission leaking ATF everywhere. It wasn't until I pulled the dipstick and saw that the tip of it barely had a marking of ATF on it. I drove it everywhere prior to this time unknowing of a leak. Once I caught the leak I had it towed to my friend's shop to reseal the pan. Luckily no damage for me . So yes, it will still shift.

The Parking Pawl, sorry I mis-spelled it the first time, is the pin located near the output shaft on the transmission. This prevents the transmission from moving while in Park. Usually what happens is they tend to lock up when you remove it in P. Try to move the car in Neutral to make sure the car moves and the parking pawl isn't stuck.

When I said about the torque converter sliding off, I mean that the grooves on the torque converter need to match up to the knobs on the inside of the tranny. Sometimes they slide forward a bit too much, and when you torque down the trans to the engine, they'll slide back out of line, damaging the tranny. I learned this from my tech who helped me out when I replaced my transmission.

Also, since you first posted that it sounds as if it goes into gear, make sure you don't have a broken CV axle, as this can also cause the car to not move at all. Sometimes it can be that simple

And no worries bradah, we're all here to help. That's what the TN Camry family is all about!

[blaxkinned]

Thanks man. I guess I can start narrowing down the possibilities. I doubt if any of my axles is broken, at least none was while I was putting them back in. And I have crawled under the car while suspending the car on jackstands and having the car in drive with hopes of seeing something move. NOTHING!!! Except axles easily disconnect inside the boots too.

Since my last post I have searched the internet regarding TC and I'm thinking I installed it wrong. I actually bolted it to the flywheel/flexplate, then bolted the transmission to it. While I was bolting the transmission, I heard two clicks as I was wiggling in to align. Hopefully, I didn't damage anything. I didnt/havent heard and funny or unusual noise too.

Is it possible to "refit" the TC without actually removing the entire engine + trans? Heaven knows I'm burnt out on school, work, this car, and CASH!!!

If not, is it feasible to drop the subframe without a need for engine hoist?

Thanks once again.

[TRD95]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

Thanks man. I guess I can start narrowing down the possibilities. I doubt if any of my axles is broken, at least none was while I was putting them back in. And I have crawled under the car while suspending the car on jackstands and having the car in drive with hopes of seeing something move. NOTHING!!! Except axles easily disconnect inside the boots too.

Since my last post I have searched the internet regarding TC and I'm thinking I installed it wrong. I actually bolted it to the flywheel/flexplate, then bolted the transmission to it. While I was bolting the transmission, I heard two clicks as I was wiggling in to align. Hopefully, I didn't damage anything. I didnt/havent heard and funny or unusual noise too.

Is it possible to "refit" the TC without actually removing the entire engine + trans? Heaven knows I'm burnt out on school, work, this car, and CASH!!!

If not, is it feasible to drop the subframe without a need for engine hoist?

Thanks once again.

With a few jack stands, I'm sure you can hold the engine in place while dropping the subframe. But you must be very careful doing it, and you better know what you're exactly doing.

But before you do all that, why don't you make sure the pressures inside the trans are at spec. Grab yourself a transmission pressure gauge to make sure you didn't damage the transmission pump when you re-installed the trans. That way you can eliminate certain possibilities. I would definitely do that first

[TRD95]

In case you need the Service Manual for the A140E transaxle, follow this link. It's the service manual in PDF Format.

Link removed.

[blaxkinned]

Originally Posted by TRD95

In case you need the Service Manual for the A140E transaxle, follow this link. It's the service manual in PDF Format.

Link removed.

Thanks man, funny thing is that I have the FSM in pdf. Pretty much everything with the extras like Owner's manual and stuff.

I always had to print stuff out in school and take to the site where my car is (a friend's backyard).
I am kinda preparing for the worst so I am seeking a replacement transmission.

I found a few at the junkyard close to me. Would a transmission from a 97/98 Lexus ES300 fit?

[TRD95]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

Thanks man, funny thing is that I have the FSM in pdf. Pretty much everything with the extras like Owner's manual and stuff.

I always had to print stuff out in school and take to the site where my car is (a friend's backyard).
I am kinda preparing for the worst so I am seeking a replacement transmission.

I found a few at the junkyard close to me. Would a transmission from a 97/98 Lexus ES300 fit?

Awesome! Just wanted to help you out with any info if needed. But I'm glad you've got your bases covered. You certainly know what you're up against

Sadly, the Lexus ES300 Trans wont work with your set up. Toyota used the A541E Transmission in your Camry V6. You can find this transmission on the following Toyota vehicles.

And I gave you the A140E service manual, which doesn't apply to you

Glad I caught my mistake
A541E

Applications:

• 1994-2001 Camry (V6)
• 1995-2003 Avalon
• 2001-2003 Sienna
• 1999-2003 Solara (V6)

[blaxkinned]

Originally Posted by TRD95

Awesome! Just wanted to help you out with any info if needed. But I'm glad you've got your bases covered. You certainly know what you're up against

Sadly, the Lexus ES300 Trans wont work with your set up. Toyota used the A541E Transmission in your Camry V6. You can find this transmission on the following Toyota vehicles.

And I gave you the A140E service manual, which doesn't apply to you

Glad I caught my mistake
A541E

Applications:

• 1994-2001 Camry (V6)
• 1995-2003 Avalon
• 2001-2003 Sienna
• 1999-2003 Solara (V6)

That's kool. I did think Camry, Avalon, Sienna, and Solara were siblings.
Now, at least I wouldn't have to go do it more than twice.

Gracias

[TRD95]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

That's kool. I did think Camry, Avalon, Sienna, and Solara were siblings.
Now, at least I wouldn't have to go do it more than twice.

Gracias

I'm a Diesel Mechanic by trade, and at work our time is literally money. We must be as efficient as possible. So I know firsthand how valuable YOUR time is. I wouldn't want to give you mis-information and see you lose not only your time, but you hard earned money!

I'm always here to help out, so if you need any assistance don't bother sending me a message. And if I cannot answer it either someone else on this forum can, or I can message my friend who's a toyota tech, owns his own shop, and is the only person allowed to work on my car .

Best of luck and keep me posted. I want to know your end result!

You're very welcome Senor!

[blaxkinned]

What are th signs of a bad torque onverter?

Also, how can I know if the transmission oil pump is bad?

I SEARCHED but couldn't find answers. I dn't mind being pointed in the direction of where to find answers. Thanks

[TRD95]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

What are th signs of a bad torque onverter?

Also, how can I know if the transmission oil pump is bad?

I SEARCHED but couldn't find answers. I dn't mind being pointed in the direction of where to find answers. Thanks

No worries bradah. You've come to thee right place

First off, the signs of a bad torque converter are when the needle bearings are bad. Usually the way to tell if they're bad is if the there is noise when you shift the car into gear. Usually this noise will go away when you shift into neutral. Needle bearings are used to separate the stator from the impeller and the turbine, and the turbine from the converter housing.

Also the converter contains a one-way clutch. If it jams and locks the stator, the converter wont be able to circulate the fluid properly between the impeller and the turbine. Hence, there will be a lack of power, and possible engine overheating. It'll also make the fluid very hot and lead to overall transmission failure. Keep in mind that the one-way clutch makes the stator only go, you guessed it, only ONE WAY! If it freewheels in both directions, the torque converter wont be able to multiply the torque properly and the car will bog when accelerating. That's when you must replace the torque converter.

As for checking the transmission pump, one easy way to check is to attach a transmission pressure gauge to the fluid line running into the radiator. That's the easiest way to check for line pressure.

Autozone or pep boys should have transmission pressure gauges readily available for rent

Let me know if there are other questions you may have.

[blaxkinned]

I really appreciate how you break it down. And I can somtimes get a mental pic. I wish Autozonehas the pressure gauge. I asked and they said they dont have one for rent.
didn' hea ny sound when I started the car (I havent started it lately)...it's eerily quiet. No grinding, clanking whatsoever.

It is possible to wrongly install the TC (like I did) and be lucky not to damage anything, right? ***I'm trying to use some Thanksgiving hope...LOL****

I'll fish out a gauge soI cn check the pressure and know if I can rule out the pump, and save some time and money.

Thanks once again.

[TRD95]

Originally Posted by blaxkinned

I really appreciate how you break it down. And I can somtimes get a mental pic. I wish Autozonehas the pressure gauge. I asked and they said they dont have one for rent.
didn' hea ny sound when I started the car (I havent started it lately)...it's eerily quiet. No grinding, clanking whatsoever.

It is possible to wrongly install the TC (like I did) and be lucky not to damage anything, right? ***I'm trying to use some Thanksgiving hope...LOL****

I'll fish out a gauge soI cn check the pressure and know if I can rule out the pump, and save some time and money.

Thanks once again.

You can always get lucky and get away with such mistake, but its extremely rare. Installing the torque converter incorrectly carries dire consequences unfortunately.

As I said before, your best bet would be to check line pressure with a pressure gauge. Just disconnecting the line wouldnt be such a good idea